Doogee Dakar M3 Track Build
No one has really done this on max before and I see too many on bimmerforums so I want to "contribute"?
I've been going to the track for 2 years, and all these upgrades to my car are just getting ridiculously uncomfortable. I'm also not a fan of taking my DD to Mosport GP. I really want to get into racing as well in the future. So this was a good time to start building a car..."for the future"
So I set out to build the track car. I grabbed a 100% clean 97 Dakar M3 from Euroguy (Tom). He had begun to part it out, so I stopped him :P
I decided to go all out and do this properly so when the time comes to actually start competing with the car, I don't want to be messing around too much.
So I'm going to start taking photos of my progress and kind of explain why I'm doing what I'm doing.
My short list of mods so far includes:
S52 /w Schrick Cams
Rebuild the head
Solid Diff mounts
90A Powerflex Subframe Mounts
Bimmerworld solid engine and tranny mounts
95 M3 or Z3 Steering Rack
(Hopefully) Bimmerworld intake
Bimmerworld Adjustable Rear Control Arms
UUC Swaybarbarians will most likely come off the DD
6 Point Cage
Fan Delete with SPAL
TcKline delrin RTABs
Bimmerworld Delrin FCABs
Coilovers are undecided. All depends on budget. JRZ RS's would be nice but more than likely out of the picture. I always have my TCKlines from my other E36.
The list will build, this is everything I can pull out of my head at 12:00. Luckily I have some time to build this thing. Going to be buying part by part. I wish I were rich so I could buy everything :) Who wants to donate :P
Definitely a special thanks to Euroguy (Tom). He's really helped me out with all the parts I need.
TcKline Rtabs installed
ByeBye subframe bushings!
Removing the sound deadening tar is the worst.
I removed the heater core and made this plate to cover the hole. It's a cutout e36 door with weatherstripping around it bolted in :P
Who likes wiring?
Whats the AKG shifter look like? Don't get that crap that comes with the base that bolts to the car's body.
Made a nice plate for all my toggle switches and gauges
Still working on wiring. Still lots of tar to remove as well
Regulars and wiring removed. The windows will stay on the rails. But I will use L-brackets bolted to the window so I can easily pull them out or leave them in with a good seal.
I painted the bumpers and sideskirts. Tom had sold them so I got some cracked ones from him, fixed them up and painted. For a rattle can job, I shocked myself of the quality.
What would you recommend? I'd like something tall, does't have to be too short in throw, I like to know what gear I'm going into haha.
As you can see the paint matched very well!
Good paint match!
The problem is, with a base mounted to the body, and a driveline that still can move (aka not solid bushings) it will twist and tweak around a bit, leading to a shifter that changes feel, and possibly lead to some botched (money)shifts.
Edit. Gah, just reread your mod list. You say solid motor and trans mounts? How can you mount it solid if the engine has knock sensors? It's gonna register every nook and cranny of vibration and pull the timing right out...
very good ;P
Although, you sure know your stuff. Will this happen for sure?
I remember this one test day that we took a car to at Mosport, hooked up a standalone knock sensor system and mounted the gauge in the car to monitor what was going on. Because it had solid mounts, it would register that the car was knocking even OFF throttle. At first we thought the system was bad, or maybe the sensor shit the bed, but we hooked it up to my car, and it worked fine! *shrugs*
Interesting. My list isn't set quite yet because of running into issues like this. Glad I have a few people here to fill me in.
I'll do more research about it for sure.
Polys or stock might not be a bad idea. Would avoid a lot of metal fatigue.
A friend of mine uses solid mounts on his e-36 race car and has had no issues with knock sensors.....I'll ask him this weekend.
Make sure to reinforce your front cross member around the motor mount area....they are prone to crack.
I could have sworn bmw designed the engine to twist to a certain degree, imean isnt there also a bushing on the X-brace to allow the engine to lean against the brace when under extreme torque?
Stiffening everything up leads to crisper shifting and no play in power delivery or the suspension.
Really puts the power to the ground where it belongs :P Did I mention they don't wear out? :P
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