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-   -   My search for an E30 (http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132922)

audi5000 05-07-2010 09:14 PM

My search for an E30
 
so i narrowed it down to a few. here are some that im interested in.
let me know what you think about them, and if they are worth it.

first one.
- E30 325iX for sale, as any BMW enthusiast would know, this is an extremely rare car

The good:
- Hartge-tuned in germany, there are original stamps everywhere on the car
- Chipped engine to 225 HP
- Exterior body in good shape (8/10 I would say)
- Manual 5-speed transmission
- Sport seats, sunroof, electric package (PW, PDL etc)
- Heated seats
- Tinted windows

The bad:
- Needs a clutch, won't engage gears any longer
- Interior in a bit of a rough condition, but nothing TLC can't take care of
- Dent on driver side rear door, but a very simple one, just needs to be popped out from the inside of the door
- May need a new exhaust soon
- Battery needs a charge, but comes with warranty if it needs to be replaced

If you have any questions please email me, I will respond within the hour


Reason for sale: No where to store the car and just graduated school.
$1600 or best offer. This is a steal at this price...

http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/...183b93_20.jpeg
http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/...629b84_20.jpeg
http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/...910dc7_20.jpeg

second one.
i have for sale a 1986 bmw 325 2.7L. it is in excellent running condition. i had it for a winter car and drove it everyday. since winter is over the car is no longer needed. the car has very little rust and a very very clean interior with many new parts. since the car is a 1986, emissions are not required to register this vehicle only a saftey.

make: 1986 bmw 325 2.7L
transmission: manual
colour: black

parts changed: all parts were new and installed when the car was purchased.

new battery with warranty
new winter tires
new serp belts
new interior. (recaro seats w/sliding bracketts, momo steering wheel, momo steering hub, rear seats, door pannels, shift knob and boot, and floor mats)
new exhaust

in total i've invested over $3500 on this car. it is trully a strong and reliable car.

PRICE: $1600obo. (no trades)
http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/...7804d3_20.jpeg
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLar...2&ImageIndex=2
http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/...148nd9_20.jpeg
http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/...463fmi_20.jpeg
http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/...792ejd_20.jpeg
http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/...228jif_20.jpeg

SamE30e 05-07-2010 09:52 PM

I want those seats in the e

And that i isn't chip tuned to 225hp.

The i looks promising.

Brent 05-07-2010 10:00 PM

The first one sure looks a lot nicer from the pics...what are the km's on both? I would be concerned about the new clutch needed on the IX , and I think by reading posts that the IX's might be harder to work on/get parts for (IX owners, please correct me if I'm wrong). I haven't replaced my clutch, but one of the other forum members told me he had to fix his, it was over $600. A used exhaust would be about $100, new interior $250+, battery $100+. These numbers are based on what I paid for mine (if I got ripped off, can someone let me know). Both cars will probably need more than meets the eye, but so far you know you have to fix the IX to the tune of roughly $1000, at my estimation. Unless one of the IX guys steps up and says you've gotta get the IX because they are much more fun or valuable, I think the black car is the way to go (KM comparison not withstanding). I'm not the most knowledgable member by far, but that's my opinion...

audi5000 05-07-2010 10:04 PM

yeah thats would drove me away from the IX was that clutch.
id imagine it would be harder on an AWD.
i believe both cars are around 200-250K

from what the owner of the black car told me. it needs nothing. he says its a tank and has never let him down. im leaning towards that one right now and ill be looking at it tomorrow.
as for the price. im managed to get the price down on the IX to 900$
is the black one worth the 1600$?
RECAROS FTW!

HavocSteve 05-07-2010 11:05 PM

Well you can always bargain the price of the black one down some, maybe try 1200$ first and see if you can meet in the middle for maybe around 1400$. For 1400$, it looks your getting a steal anyways! No engine or transmission problems and no dents. Basically need a new paint job and your set. Paint job can cost you 600$ or less depending on who you talk to and you supply the paint and everything. If you even want, you can spray can you car also, it's been done. I would get the black one for sure. The amount of $$ your going to spend getting parts ect for the iX, you can get lower springs and such for the E and make it look all pretty.

Only reason why I bought my IS was because it doesn't need engine nor transmission work. Body/floor work is nothing but once you start with the engine it can get costly.

dble Trouble 05-07-2010 11:40 PM

Stay away from the IX. Awd for the loss. Not as quick, not as good handling, worse on fuel, more expensive to fix, will never be worth anything as a resale, not as good on the brakes, heavier, etc, etc, etc,. Need I say more. That e doesn't look so hot either, especially from the outside. That car will have tonnes of rot underneath. Rust = cancer, you can fix it, but you can't cure it. It almost always comes back. I'd try to find an "I" with no rust or as little as possible, and not worry about the mileage nor mechanical. Anyone can turn a wrench, but rust, not so easy.

HavocSteve 05-08-2010 12:59 AM

Rust isn't so bad lol.. It's all in how you treat it. Sandblasting and sealing or grinding and priming it. Anything that has rust prohibitor or the liking. It all does the job and does the job extremely well. But as you mentioned. A 325i or even iS would be better as they have more HP and more options for interior and gadgets. If your that worried about rust, I suggest you sandblast the underbody and such and just seal then primer it. No more rust to worry about and get it undercoated with the oil crap. Problem solved.

Eurostyle 05-08-2010 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dble Trouble (Post 1417846)
Stay away from the IX. Awd for the loss. Not as quick, not as good handling, worse on fuel, more expensive to fix, will never be worth anything as a resale, not as good on the brakes, heavier, etc, etc, etc,. Need I say more. That e doesn't look so hot either, especially from the outside. That car will have tonnes of rot underneath. Rust = cancer, you can fix it, but you can't cure it. It almost always comes back. I'd try to find an "I" with no rust or as little as possible, and not worry about the mileage nor mechanical. Anyone can turn a wrench, but rust, not so easy.

I would have to say an IX would always be worth more then a regular E30...even more so in fall/winter! (not to mention they are worth X2 in parts alone!)

Eurostyle 05-08-2010 01:16 AM

- "Chipped engine to 225 HP"

I would just LOVE to get me one of those 54HP chips!!!!:rolleyes:

audi5000 05-08-2010 07:42 AM

anything about that car i should be finding out today? it will be my first bmw!

supernaught 05-08-2010 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brent (Post 1417809)
The first one sure looks a lot nicer from the pics...what are the km's on both? I would be concerned about the new clutch needed on the IX , and I think by reading posts that the IX's might be harder to work on/get parts for (IX owners, please correct me if I'm wrong). I haven't replaced my clutch, but one of the other forum members told me he had to fix his, it was over $600. A used exhaust would be about $100, new interior $250+, battery $100+. These numbers are based on what I paid for mine (if I got ripped off, can someone let me know). Both cars will probably need more than meets the eye, but so far you know you have to fix the IX to the tune of roughly $1000, at my estimation. Unless one of the IX guys steps up and says you've gotta get the IX because they are much more fun or valuable, I think the black car is the way to go (KM comparison not withstanding). I'm not the most knowledgable member by far, but that's my opinion...

Unfortunately most of this is the truth. The biggest problem is theres no real way to test the VC if it doesnt move(without some special tools). Replacing the VC can be very expensive for new, and hit and miss for used(I've heard some awful stories of cooked VCs being resold as good). Aside from the block, suspension, steering, trans, TC, driveshafts, axles, brakes and exhaust, everything else is pretty much the same as a normal e30

Brent 05-08-2010 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supernaught (Post 1417896)
Unfortunately most of this is the truth. The biggest problem is theres no real way to test the VC if it doesnt move(without some special tools). Replacing the VC can be very expensive for new, and hit and miss for used(I've heard some awful stories of cooked VCs being resold as good). Aside from the block, suspension, steering, trans, TC, driveshafts, axles, brakes and exhaust, everything else is pretty much the same as a normal e30


Cool, I was hoping you'd give your opinion as an IX owner...

Brent 05-08-2010 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audi5000 (Post 1417885)
anything about that car i should be finding out today? it will be my first bmw!

If you haven't already, check out the sticky thread for "Buying an E30(Checklist)" near the top of the e30 threads. It's full of good information.

My own extra 2 cents-check the brake lines and fuel lines for rust-its about $300 per line if they go, and there's 3. Also, most people don't like to do them themselves as there are a lot of bends.

Good luck! They're great cars, but sometimes repair costs can creep up, so be careful at the beginning and stay clear if you see too many obvious problems.

HavocSteve 05-08-2010 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brent (Post 1418004)
If you haven't already, check out the sticky thread for "Buying an E30(Checklist)" near the top of the e30 threads. It's full of good information.

My own extra 2 cents-check the brake lines and fuel lines for rust-its about $300 per line if they go, and there's 3. Also, most people don't like to do them themselves as there are a lot of bends.

Good luck! They're great cars, but sometimes repair costs can creep up, so be careful at the beginning and stay clear if you see too many obvious problems.

You can replace them with fuel hose and just make brackets, that way less bends ect in tight spaces. It takes a day to do all 4 brakes, if you have the flare/buddle tool and can take even less time if you know what your doing. Doing cost much and then you know you have solid brakes yourself because you did them. The only thing I would be concerned about is the fuel line above the tank that runs to the pump. Doing that is a ***** but can be done with some smart thinking with the fuel hose and going to the steel pipe. Also the front frame of the car would be another good place to check. Solid frame is always a plus with older cars, you'll notice people post picks of nissans and stuff like that with some rust on the frame rails. Just make sure there's minimul engine work and tranny work. If your decent at body work you know it doesn't cost much to get some sheet metal or just replace other things. Running into Cam issues and Timing belt issues ect can cost you fortune and not to mention a tow home.

craz azn 05-09-2010 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HavocSteve (Post 1418039)
You can replace them with fuel hose and just make brackets, that way less bends ect in tight spaces. It takes a day to do all 4 brakes, if you have the flare/buddle tool and can take even less time if you know what your doing. Doing cost much and then you know you have solid brakes yourself because you did them. The only thing I would be concerned about is the fuel line above the tank that runs to the pump. Doing that is a ***** but can be done with some smart thinking with the fuel hose and going to the steel pipe. Also the front frame of the car would be another good place to check. Solid frame is always a plus with older cars, you'll notice people post picks of nissans and stuff like that with some rust on the frame rails. Just make sure there's minimul engine work and tranny work. If your decent at body work you know it doesn't cost much to get some sheet metal or just replace other things. Running into Cam issues and Timing belt issues ect can cost you fortune and not to mention a tow home.

I take it you don't know much about E30s. Here is a little hint: Rust is THE single most problematic part about them. 'Cam issues and Timing belt issues' are cheap in comparison...


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