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darkis_light
01-06-2008, 06:16 PM
My 1991 e30 318is was having a problem when starting after it had been parked with the engine hot for more than 15-20 mins.

Symptoms were as if it had no fuel in the line. Cranked over 6-8 times and then stumble and start and run fine.

I did research on the internet and found that similar problems had been posted on other BMW websites. see: http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/535ihot_start.asp

I never checked with BMW in Canada for availability.

Note: The repair kit is inexpensive but costs more than its worth in shipping.
Bulky packaging. Kit consists of the replacement fuel line with the check valve already attached (you will cut this to length for your application) and some new clamps (crimped type clamps you may wish to replace with screw type clamps) and some insulation tubing and plastic nut covers (this can be discarded as you may not use this for your repair)

I finally had enough and I purchased BMW check valve p/n 16149068988 from Steve Haygood in the states. You can see his site at http://www.stevehaygood.com:80/

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/dark_islight/HPIM0679.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/dark_islight/HPIM0678.jpg

Pre install

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/dark_islight/nofuelcheckvalveinstalled_1.jpg

Post install

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/dark_islight/fuelcheckvalveinstalled_2copy.jpg

Car starts without hesitation now!!!!:rolleyes:

darkis_light
01-06-2008, 09:16 PM
Important Note: Do this outside not in the garage!!!!
Very simple. Disconnect the fuel pump power supply and fuel sender connectors. Takes 30min, just have everything ready, Clamps, tools, fire extinguisher and pre cut the fuel hose before you disconnect the feed line.

Be prepared for some fuel to leak back down towards the fuel pump, have some rags handy.

e30_kid89
01-06-2008, 09:37 PM
Ahhhh...My old swap car (a 91' 318i shell) had the same problem too. Cool to know what it finally was!

Jamil
01-06-2008, 10:10 PM
Thank you very much for this thread. I'm having the exact same problem with my 325is. Worth a try.

craz azn
01-09-2008, 01:05 PM
LOL now heres a question. How bout if your car runs perfectly fine... BUT you WANT to make it crank longer?? More less what I am asking is how to artificially make this problem?

darkis_light
01-09-2008, 04:30 PM
Install a manual switch to shut off your fuel pump so you can crank as long as you want.

:confused: Why would you want to artificially create this problem?

craz azn
01-09-2008, 11:44 PM
I think it would be better to cut the power to the coil instead of cutting the fuel... but meh, different ways about going at it...

Why? I dunno... I just feel bad in the morning seeing my car running for a split second with the oil pressure light on. I'd crank it longer so it builds oil pressure... It was just a thought of mine that if my car develops this fuel problem that I will not fix it. lol.

Ej_Red
01-12-2008, 05:12 PM
I'm having this problem as well. The thing is that sometimes it didn't want to start even on the cold start. Happened only once. I still haven't figured it out but everytime i pull the sparkplugs out, they are soaked in fuel.

darkis_light
01-12-2008, 06:43 PM
I just feel bad in the morning seeing my car running for a split second with the oil pressure light on.

If she's running and the oil light is on then maybe you have an oil pressure problem or a bad oil pressure pressure sensor.

darkis_light
01-12-2008, 06:44 PM
I'm having this problem as well. The thing is that sometimes it didn't want to start even on the cold start. Happened only once. I still haven't figured it out but everytime i pull the sparkplugs out, they are soaked in fuel.


Are your plugs wet on the warm start or just the cold start?

Ej_Red
01-12-2008, 08:26 PM
I have never pulled the plugs out on the warm start cause it would usually start after very long cranking. Once in the morning the car was cold and it started fine ran about a minute and i shut it off. It wouldn't restart after. Pulled spark plugs out, soaked wet after long cranking. Now the other day it wouldn't start at all and it was really wet outside/rain. It wouldn't start at all. So after the cranking i pulled the spark plugs out, they were wet. Dried them out with the heat gun, put them back in and stepped on the gas pedal and it started right away. I suspect leaking injectors maybe? Or something in the ignition system.

darkis_light
01-12-2008, 09:43 PM
Wet plugs would generally indicate a spark problem.

craz azn
01-12-2008, 10:20 PM
If she's running and the oil light is on then maybe you have an oil pressure problem or a bad oil pressure pressure sensor.

Nope. Its fine. New sensor last year. And theres no problem with the pump as it was just cracked apart 13k ago and looked brand new (came from a low km engine) I am pretty sure every car is like that on a cold day.

darkis_light
01-12-2008, 11:09 PM
Haven't seen that on mine. 352,000Km running 5W 30 Quaker state synthetic all winter and Castrol 20W 50 in the summer.

craz azn
01-12-2008, 11:11 PM
5w30 is rather thin for the m20

im runnin' 10w40 in the winter

darkis_light
01-13-2008, 10:21 AM
5w30 is rather thin for the m20

im runnin' 10w40 in the winter

Syn or reg 10W 40?

Chris de la Cruz
01-13-2008, 01:17 PM
regular, you don't need synthetic in these motors. Its not even worth it.

craz azn
01-13-2008, 09:37 PM
regular, you don't need synthetic in these motors. Its not even worth it.

+1

I tryed 5w50 synthetic in my old stock motor back in '06. That bastard sucked oil like crazy and sometimes was even pretty smokey (but that coulda been the engine as it started to smoke regardless towards the 'end' lol)

I use a oil additive called Molyslip. In my mind, it makes up for the 'synthetic' bit of those expensive oils, and its added insurance (to me) if anything may go wrong (ie. blows up) Good Stuff!

http://www.molyslip.com/Products/MolySlipE.html