PDA

View Full Version : 10 Steps To The Perfect Hand Wash


HoldenC
12-29-2007, 03:29 PM
f you have experience with detailing, you know important it is to wash your vehicle correctly. For those who are new to detailing or who are just discovering my blog for the first time, we will be covering the basic steps.

Before we begin, you will need:

2 Large Buckets (preferably new)
Car Wash Soap (for now, use a name brand such as Meguiars)
Microfibre Wash Mitt
Microfibre Drying Towel

1) Pour a small quantity of car wash soap (about 2-3 capfuls) into one bucket and fill both buckets with lukewarm water.

2) Begin by pre-rinsing the vehicle. Move around the vehicle at a gentle pace, making certain to soak the paint as much as possible with your hose. Try to remove or dislodge as much dirt as possible while still being gentle to the paint. Do not use a pressure washer.

3) Once the car is pre-rinsed, you may dip the wash mitt into the soapy bucket and begin washing the car. Use gentle, even strokes in a uniform direction - do not use a circular pattern. This is to prevent a common occurrence called "swirls," effectively millions of tiny scratches caused by small particles of dirt in your wash media. Use of the former method should virtually eliminate the recurrence of swirls.

4) Once you have completed the top half of the vehicle (hood, roof, windows, and trunk), you may rinse the soap off. For this step, remove the nozzle of the hose. This will allow you to "sheet" the water off the car, reducing the amount of time spent drying afterward.

5) Now that the top half of the car has been rinsed, you may begin washing the lower half. Insert the wash mitt into the bucket of clean water. This will remove some of the dirt particulates that have accumulated in it. Resume washing the lower half.

6) With the lower half completely covered in suds, it is now time to rinse for the final time. Use the "sheeting" method as described earlier.

7) Dry the vehicle with a microfibre drying towel. Be certain to remove every drop of water as the minerals that form from a drop of water can etch the paint.

8) Protect all of your rubber trim with a protectant. My favourite product for this is 303 Aerospace Protectant, however products such as Poorboy's Natural Look and Mother's Back to Black may serve you just as well.

9) Wash all of your wheels in the same manner described above. You may use either car wash soap or a dedicated wheel cleaner. Be careful of over the counter products as they contain acids that may harm alloy wheels.

If you are using plain 'ol soap, employ an old rag or wash mitt. Never use the same mitt for the wheels as you do for the paint. Simply cover all four wheels with suds. By the time the last wheel is covered, you may return to rinse each wheel in turn. Dry the wheel with a microfibre towel.

Employ the same methods with wheel cleaner gels, allowing them time to eat away at brake dust, grime and dirt before rinsing away.

10) Dress your tires and wheel wells in the same manner as door and window trim. Now, you may sit back and enjoy the view.

This is the manner which I have used successfully in my business. It may work for you or you may have to adapt this process to suit your schedule and needs.

This is from my new blog entitled The Perfect Shine and is located at http://theperfectshine.blogspot.com. Thanks, and please visit any time you like.

If you have any questions about detailing, just send me a PM and perhaps I will include it with one of my blog postings.

kzy
12-30-2007, 12:56 PM
Nice write up! Can't wait to start hand washing my car in the spring

AceOfSpades
12-30-2007, 01:14 PM
sweet stuff man*th-up* *th-up*

i'm not sure if its the same for other soaps out there, but meguiars gold class shampoo and conditioner give that extra shine

one question, what do you use to dry your car? after one washing and drying, the cloth becomes way too oily for the next drying(even after extensively cleaning them)?
the drying cloth i use is the microfibre thing from canadian tire

Sneaky
12-30-2007, 04:53 PM
sweet stuff man*th-up* *th-up*

i'm not sure if its the same for other soaps out there, but meguiars gold class shampoo and conditioner give that extra shine

one question, what do you use to dry your car? after one washing and drying, the cloth becomes way too oily for the next drying(even after extensively cleaning them)?
the drying cloth i use is the microfibre thing from canadian tire

Use that Lamp Skin to dry it.

HoldenC
12-31-2007, 03:02 PM
n2ozebozz: I answered your question on my blog. I hope it helps =).

AceOfSpades
01-01-2008, 12:30 PM
you rock man!!!*rockout* those links are awesome!!

HoldenC
01-01-2008, 04:18 PM
Hey, could we get a sticky for this thread?

Manimillion
01-02-2008, 12:56 AM
Also to reduce swirls, wash the cars top parts (hood, roof, trunk) with a front to back stroke. The sides of the car with a top to bottom stroke... so i've been told by a reputable detailer.

HoldenC
01-02-2008, 02:08 AM
Also to reduce swirls, wash the cars top parts (hood, roof, trunk) with a front to back stroke. The sides of the car with a top to bottom stroke... so i've been told by a reputable detailer.

Yes, that is correct. Avoid circular patterns when you wash your car. If you do, you reduce the opportunity for tiny particles of dirt to cause "swirls".

HoldenC
01-02-2008, 02:09 AM
you rock man!!!*rockout* those links are awesome!!

You're very welcome. Happy detailing!

HoldenC
01-09-2008, 12:03 PM
New article posted today. Check it out: http://theperfectshine.blogspot.com.

Comment on some of the articles, give me some feedback, and keep visiting; there are great things to come

AceOfSpades
01-09-2008, 02:03 PM
*th-up*

SeRb
01-09-2008, 04:12 PM
hang on... so using steel wool to wash my car is a BAD idea?

EMPOWERD
01-10-2008, 12:02 AM
I'd like to add that you shouldn't use any household dish detergent soaps if you don't have an automotive-grade soap... these household products are extremely strong and will strip any wax you have on the car instantly. If you intend on removing the wax for a reapplication, then be my guest!

BigD
02-23-2008, 08:16 PM
Why does everyone use microfiber towels? They don't absorb jack, just streak water around. I just use ordinary cotton towels.

HoldenC
02-24-2008, 04:14 PM
Why does everyone use microfiber towels? They don't absorb jack, just streak water around. I just use ordinary cotton towels.

This excerpt is from: http://www.properautocare.com/micwhatbigde.html. I think it covers your questions quite well.

To summarize, low-quality microfibre towels use strands of fibre that actually do not retain water at all and are similar to the products used in water-resistant clothing. High-quality towels, on the other hand, retain water much better.

Cotton towels - like the ones you use - are not intended for proper auto maintenance and they mar the surface of your paint. Since washing and detailing is intended to beautify your vehicle, cotton towels are counter-productive.

Microfiber - What is it? by Proper Auto Care

Microfiber is a revolutionary man made fiber that can be processed, woven and finished in a variety of different ways to achieve a specific result. Unprocessed (fibers not split) Microfiber, woven in a flat weave, has very poor water absorption characteristics. In fact, it is used to manufacture water resistant clothing. The same Microfiber thread, processed by splitting the individual threads and weaving in a loop or waffle pattern, is now super absorbent. It will absorb over seven times its weight in fluids!

Microfiber is a man-made product that combines two basic fibers, Polyester and Polyamide (a nylon by-product). These fibers are usually �split� and formed into a woven fabric of 80% Polyester (the scrubbing and cleaning fiber), and 20% Polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fiber).

These threads are very small in diameter making them super soft. Rated in denier, the unit for measuring fineness of fabric, a strand of cotton has a rating of 200. A human hair has a denier of 20 and a strand of silk has a denier of 8. Microfiber has a denier of 0.01 to 0.02! At minimum, 100 times finer than a human hair. Softer than silk, yet bull-dog tough, split Microfiber cloth attracts dust, grime, oily films and salt residues like a magnet.

The unique surface structure of split Microfiber cloth contain hundreds of thousands of micro fiber �hooks� per square inch! These micro-hooks grab, lift, and hold dust and grime without the need for cleaning solutions. Microfiber cloth can be used damp or dry. Used dry, Microfiber cloth works like a chamois. The super absorbent weaves holds up to seven times its weight in fluid and will not scratch paint, glass, acrylics or plastic window tint films.

What's the difference between a $2.00 Microfiber towel and a $15 or $20 Microfiber towel?

With demand for Microfiber products increasing monthly, factories in Korea and China are now flooding the American market with very cheap "Microfiber" products. There is a huge difference between inexpensive and quality Microfiber:

1. The strands are not split. 70 to 75% of inexpensive Microfiber now coming out of Korea and China is unprocessed, non-split Microfiber. Unless you want a water-resistant material, unprocessed, non-split Microfiber is worthless! Many of you have seen packages showing a drawing of a snowflake-looking fiber with wedges around the perimeter scooping up dust particles. While this looks great it is a picture of non-split, unprocessed Microfiber! Processed, split Microfiber looks like a tangle of spaghetti ends. The reason for the abundance of this fabric is simple. Machines that produce the raw Microfiber thread can be purchased for under $100.000. The machines that do the splitting and processing of the thread into the Microfiber "hooks" cost over $1,000,000. Only the largest fabric producers in Korea can afford these machines and according to industry insiders, few of these machines exist in China.

2. The Microfiber threads are larger. The industry standard for Microfiber is a denier of 0.02 or smaller. We have found some "Microfiber" cloths coming out of China with a denier of 0.5. This is fine but 50 times larger than the best Microfiber thread. Chinese and inexpensive Korean Microfiber products have very poor absorption and scrubbing qualities.

BigD
02-24-2008, 05:01 PM
Very informative, thank you!

HoldenC
02-24-2008, 05:06 PM
Very informative, thank you!

You're welcome. :)

If you're looking specifically for a drying towel, you need one designed for that purpose. They typically are the size of a medium-sized bath towel. Although online sources will always carry superior quality microfibre products, the average enthusiast may be able to source their drying towels locally if they so choose.

330iPilot
07-24-2008, 09:21 AM
Since my wheels take so long to get cleaned(they have a whole lot on nooks and crannies) I wash them first with a dedicated mitt and bucket. Then I wash the car with a clean mitt and car washing detergent. That way you don't have to keep re-wetting the car, or risk getting it wet if you happen to dry it before you tackle cleaning your wheels.

Bullet Ride
07-24-2008, 11:33 AM
Since my wheels take so long to get cleaned(they have a whole lot on nooks and crannies) I wash them first with a dedicated mitt and bucket. Then I wash the car with a clean mitt and car washing detergent. That way you don't have to keep re-wetting the car, or risk getting it wet if you happen to dry it before you tackle cleaning your wheels.

+1
Always wash the wheels first.

Sublime
05-19-2013, 01:30 AM
Very useful thread! I followed your steps today to clean my car. After I had purchase the products from CT (spent 60$ for it), I was curious to see how it would turn out. I must say my car looks like its brand new out of the shop. Thanks a lot!

Edwina
05-19-2013, 04:48 AM
Unless you need an item right away, avoid choosing the expedited shipping option when shopping online. Most websites will charge you a fortune to have your items delivered the next day or the day after.