View Full Version : Someone help me save my E30

12-25-2007, 03:13 AM
Alright, I've had my E30 for a couple months now and it's presently being stored for winter cause I have some serious body work that needs to be done. Fiberglassing wouldn't work because it's too cold and it would last about 2 months before it would start rusting again from the inside. So im going to need it cut out and new sheet metal. but i dont have the tools or experience.*thmbsdwn*
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/?action=view&current=untitledjgjrsgtr.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/untitledjgjrsgtr.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/?action=view&current=untitledjgjrsg.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/untitledjgjrsg.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/?action=view&current=untitledjgj.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/untitledjgj.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
These are pics of when i bought the car. I'll try and get updated photos and close-ups this week.
If someone can help me out with this body work it would be great help and great help doesn't go unpaid. Please anyone who has the experience would be nice.*sad*

Bimmer Heaven
12-25-2007, 03:21 AM
If its gone that far, its only a matter of how long you have before you have to re-do it all over again...Even the best welding job will only last that long...Few years at the best....

12-25-2007, 03:26 AM
well if the rust was cut out and re-done oppose to me fiberglassing over the rust would give me a few years then that's all i need. Isn't there any type of rust protection I could go with aswell.

Bimmer Heaven
12-25-2007, 03:55 AM
Its almost the same thing with welding, it starts rusting from the inside...because its hard to protect (best way is as much oil/undercoating as possible, since you cant paint there). Rust is like canser, its cant stop, its only slowing it down...

One thing you can do thats as good as welding in riveting new metal in, if you cut/prep well, it can be just as effective, and its somthing you can do for almost free (rivet guns are cheap, and so is sheat metal!)

12-25-2007, 11:07 AM
send me a pm - maybe I can help you.

12-25-2007, 11:42 AM
if you do the shit correctly it should last a decent amount of time..
if you cant find anyone in your area shoot me a pm and maybe my dad could help you out.. we fixed all the same stuff on my car .. but it might not have been that bad

12-25-2007, 06:38 PM
Here are the updated pics of the rust damage i have...

in front of driver side rear tire
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/?action=view&current=000_0025.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/000_0025.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

And licence plate lights that need to be filled. Bought a frame with a light on it.
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/?action=view&current=000_0027.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/000_0027.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/?action=view&current=000_0026.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r13/playstationman24/000_0026.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

12-25-2007, 08:06 PM
the subframe mount area looks bad - subframe would need to be dropped to allow any work to be done.

12-25-2007, 08:51 PM
Holy rust batman....Honestly part it out. Its gonna be $$$$ to get it perfect.

12-25-2007, 09:02 PM
it is not that bad to part out the car, but it requires serious work and some tools. the part was probably fixed before as the mounting bolts don't look factory.

12-25-2007, 09:38 PM
yep i noticed the hex bolts....a rocker repair like that would run him in the neighbourhood of 500 - 700 tops...maybe cheaper, maybe more. I would HIGHLY suggest to not diy this but to get it fixed by a reputable pro body shop. The rear lic. plate isn't too bad, just get a new one and cut out the old n weld in the new.

12-25-2007, 10:57 PM
mostlikely the fuel pump side is in the same condition.
the repair is not that hard, but the prep work is extensive.

12-26-2007, 12:12 AM
would under body rust proofing help this in any way.

12-26-2007, 12:13 AM
too late for that - clean it with a wire brush and spray auto tremclad for now.

12-26-2007, 01:11 AM
alright i'll do that tomorrow.

12-26-2007, 06:07 PM
hey i found a body repair website and they sell some good looking/sounding products.


Im thinking that I should cut off the exposed rust then clean the inside as best as i can with the wire brush then spray the picklex on it following the instructions then spraying on the epoxy primer. Then get the new piece of sheet metal MIG welded in and respray with epoxy primer then body fill. For the trunk area I was think to go with metal bonding instead of welding not sure though.
or if the rust is cleaned properly using those products could i just use fiberglass and body filler.
if i could help with the subframe i was thinking to clean it with a wire brush then spray the picklex on it then epoxy primer then a coat of black zero-rust. doing this myself would save me the 500-1000 i dont have*mumble*

What do you guys think?

12-26-2007, 07:38 PM
You can try that, but subframe needs to be removed to do the work.

12-26-2007, 07:50 PM
yeah thats why im gunna need help with that. I dont think i have the tools for that. 2 is greater than 1. so im going to order the stuff tomorrow and get the materials together and zorin if you can still come after the new year then that would be great. Any body else that would like to come and pitch in or just for input is more then welcome. Teamwork is the best. we have not yet confirmed a date but it will be after new years.

we can call it "PROJECT: SAVE E30"