PDA

View Full Version : could use some help -stripped screw


bmdbley'sBro
11-08-2007, 06:58 PM
yeah the screw that holds the rotor on stripped *sad*

http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97599

anybody got a small mig welder or some type of 'easy out' for a 7mm 'alen key' bit

suggestions besides me ripping my clothes off in a rage, pouring motor oil all over myself
and then running down the streets naked screaming in frustration would be awesome :D

Oyster
11-08-2007, 08:57 PM
yeah the screw that holds the rotor on stripped *sad*

http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97599

anybody got a small mig welder or some type of 'easy out' for a 7mm 'alen key' bit

suggestions besides me ripping my clothes off in a rage, pouring motor oil all over myself
and then running down the streets naked screaming in frustration would be awesome :D

go to canadian tire, get a screw extrator for like $20 and get it out. simple

bmdbley'sBro
11-08-2007, 09:05 PM
go to canadian tire, get a screw extrator for like $20 and get it out. simple

they make those for 7mm allen screws? would be cool
i knew they made em for larger bolts...

Quack
11-08-2007, 09:11 PM
in this situation I use a punch/chisel & hammer, get as close to the edge of the screw head as possible, and start hitting it counter clockwise, this is how it's done at most shops if it's stripped.

oldskool3
11-08-2007, 11:35 PM
Take a powerful angle grinder and go crazy on the head.

chromius
11-09-2007, 11:46 AM
Adam,
I've had the same thing happen to me a couple of times on that damn set screw. I've got an easy out extractor, but it requires drilling the set screw in the center, then tapping the extractor in, and twisting it out. It works well, but it ruins the set screw so you would have to get a new one. They're cheap though.

Let me know if you need a hand, but I think I picked up the extractor from NAPA for 5 bucks.

bmdbley'sBro
11-09-2007, 01:40 PM
in this situation I use a punch/chisel & hammer, get as close to the edge of the screw head as possible, and start hitting it counter clockwise, this is how it's done at most shops if it's stripped.

^that might actually work but would need some1 to hold the spinning rotor

Take a powerful angle grinder and go crazy on the head.
no can do its recessed into the rotor a few mm's..

Adam,
I've had the same thing happen to me a couple of times on that damn set screw. I've got an easy out extractor, but it requires drilling the set screw in the center, then tapping the extractor in, and twisting it out. It works well, but it ruins the set screw so you would have to get a new one. They're cheap though.

Let me know if you need a hand, but I think I picked up the extractor from NAPA for 5 bucks.
already toast :D tried having a drill on it myself praying it would catch & torq out..
nopes..

so yeah I'll borrow that *th-up* .. I should have access to a working vehicle after 6pm ..

Quack
11-09-2007, 01:44 PM
I know it works, it's tricks of the trade, you can ask any smart mechanic & they will tell you ther same thing.

Oyster
11-09-2007, 02:02 PM
I know it works, it's tricks of the trade, you can ask any smart mechanic & they will tell you ther same thing.

true, but you need experience to do it. Easier to use extrator for newbies

a Flat head screw driver with a hammer or a 5lbs hammer does the trick too

Also spray the spot with penetrating lube.

NEXT TIME, put the socket in, then HAMMER it so that it sets in BEFORE you turn it out.

When you turn it out, SNAP IT violenty to mimic "Impact".

What happen is that you twisted/strip the bolt.

bmdbley'sBro
11-09-2007, 02:36 PM
true, but you need experience to do it. Easier to use extrator for newbies

a Flat head screw driver with a hammer or a 5lbs hammer does the trick too

Also spray the spot with penetrating lube.

NEXT TIME, put the socket in, then HAMMER it so that it sets in BEFORE you turn it out.

When you turn it out, SNAP IT violenty to mimic "Impact".

What happen is that you twisted/strip the bolt.
i've hamered out a few stripped screws before..
but this one is recessed a few mm on a freely spinning rotor..

the other one i did drivers side..I sprayed with liquid wrench then
i put my allen key in attached a tire iron/ breaker bar..came loose right away.

Oyster
11-09-2007, 02:51 PM
can you take a picture of the stubborn screw so we can all discuss further?*sad*

Quack
11-09-2007, 05:57 PM
why don't you lock the rotor in place, it can only be done if it is a vented rotor, all you have to do is put a screwdriver in the vent of the rotor & let the screwdriver rest on the caliper or caliper bracket, another trick of the trade:D

NickP
11-10-2007, 12:04 AM
why don't you lock the rotor in place, it can only be done if it is a vented rotor, all you have to do is put a screwdriver in the vent of the rotor & let the screwdriver rest on the caliper or caliper bracket, another trick of the trade:D

I'd listen to him, he has tricks of the trade for tricks of the trade.

everlast
11-10-2007, 02:20 AM
Woah now.. I've stripped about 5 of these things. The 10 second solution? Drill it out. Get a bit the same size as the shank of the threaded part of the bolt. If you're not sure, try a 5/16. Drill until the 'head' pops off and spins, and yank on the rotor and it will come right off. I keep 4 screws on hand b4 any brake job, and usually replace a least a few.

This is a lot easier than any other of the above solutions. I also have a few of the screws if you need them adam, new.

everlast
11-10-2007, 02:23 AM
Also, i never use allen keys, but either a 't' version of it, or better yet a good quality allen bit for a 3/8" ratchet. It seems when you torque them they don't 'twist' as much and strip the head.

everlast
11-10-2007, 02:25 AM
Oh, after you have the rotor off (and the pressure on the bolt shaft is relieved) the screw will tend to turn a lot easier. So, pull the rotor, spray with penetrating oil and use vice grips or my fav, file a slot and use a screw driver.

On my beater cars though I just simply didn't use the set screw. Problem solved. :D

bmdbley'sBro
11-10-2007, 03:09 PM
can you take a picture of the stubborn screw so we can all discuss further?*sad*

sure :D

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x72/ill318/E36/messed-rotor-scrw.jpg

thats the easy out i borrowed from chromius
my drill bits failed to get into this screw & broke..
which i need to drill into to get the easy out to start biting...

gonna check for larger ones today.

why don't you lock the rotor in place, it can only be done if it is a vented rotor, all you have to do is put a screwdriver in the vent of the rotor & let the screwdriver rest on the caliper or caliper bracket, another trick of the trade:D
good tip chromius (adam) had pm'd me that when i was after his extractor
i laughed at myself for not figuring that one out :D

i've done brake jobs before..but this one is giving me trouble.


oh & does this calliper piston look all the way in??
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x72/ill318/E36/Picture930.jpg

chromius
11-10-2007, 03:30 PM
thats the easy out i borrowed from chromius
my drill bits failed to get into this screw & broke..
which i need to drill into to get the easy out to start biting...

You want to borrow my drill bits? They definitely won't break.:)



oh & does this calliper piston look all the way in??


Looks like it's in all the way, might be able to go in another 1 or 2mm. But it only needs to be pushed in far enough for the pads to fit over the rotors.

ecuconnection
11-10-2007, 03:33 PM
fun with c clamps

everlast
11-11-2007, 01:46 AM
Ya, I have one big fat c-clamp from CT I bought for $7 that is perfect. Also, if your bits broke on this screw they were crappy bits, or you were using way to small of a bit. The one to drill out the screw should be comfortably larger than the hex opening on the front. I'm telling you, you don't need to do anything, just hit that mofo with a big drill bit and the shit will fall right off.

Easy-peezy lemon-squeezy.

chromius
11-11-2007, 04:00 AM
Just as a side note, when you put the brakes back together, use anti-seize on everything. That way you will never have this problem again, and your life will be much easier the next time you do the brakes.*th-up*

Jay, I still say the extractor would be easier and quicker than your method. It seems to me it would be very easy to mess up the threads with drilling it out your way. Where as the extractor method is just a small quick pilot hole, and a twist of the wrench. Dunno, maybe it's just me.:)

Trekz
11-11-2007, 04:48 AM
why not just drill it out and tap a new thread or just throw in a helicoil i ended up drilling out and using a healicoil on one of the broken sub frame bolts

everlast
11-11-2007, 01:51 PM
I don't know, I've never damaged anything. You have the thickness of the metal of the rotor behind the screw before you get near the hub.

But you're quite the extractor salesman.. Are you related to the Canadian Tire bearded guy? "Now that's something different. *smile*" :D

Anyway, word to the anti-seize. I can't believe how well that stuff works.

bmdbley'sBro
11-11-2007, 04:53 PM
-
ok so last night i bought these for $35
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x72/ill318/E36/extractorbits.jpg



which did bite right in good & firm..until i tried to reefe on it (3/8 socket w/breaker bar attached) :D




http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x72/ill318/E36/messed-rotor-scrwa.jpg
lol wow too bad my crappy drill bits that came with my crappy 18v cordless drill didn't do that..
or i might have had better success with adams extractor.


so i was going to call it quit's put it back together & call a tow truck tomorrow
I was then going to remove my male gentilia in shame & place it in the trunk.
but striker (raph) called me out of the blue, he's on his way over..
see what happens

gawd i suck. *sad*

Trekz
11-11-2007, 08:04 PM
the buts you bought for 35 are horrible, i tried using them for some broken blots no luck at all

everlast
11-12-2007, 03:47 PM
So what happened? You just going lightweight with no rotors now? :D

carjoe
11-12-2007, 07:26 PM
ouch. *shiner*

bmdbley'sBro
11-13-2007, 02:00 AM
...now for your next dose of As the screw doesn't turn

-
raph came over drilled, drilled, drilled & then drilled some more...
it didn't move!!

then using the very bits i had bought & something i lack called 'skill'
the little bastard finally came free. yay! *par-t*

all went back together smoothly but I had to loosely put 'bastard screw' back in
as the bastard rotor was now being pried off the hub by the bastard hawk pads

On top of that..my drivers side Caliper piston seems to not be returning
so i guess I now need front calipers

and yes i took the drivers apart again & c-clamped it with pad in piston.
it did move back another mm or 2..

but as soon as i applied brakes CLAMP..no return of piston..
went for a very very short drive...like having the parking brake on..
pads were mildly smoking. *sad*

jeffrie
11-13-2007, 02:36 AM
Like Everlast & I told you.... You need to drill, drill drill. Pro wrenches may be able to do what you can't with an extractor but were not all pro wrenches, what works for the eliet most often doesn't work for the ameture...

Too bad you wasted your coin on the extractors... IMO their one time use always and I'v never been sussesful with them.
After the plasma cutter was purchased along with setaleane I can get any bolt out now he he he.
I'v been able to save calipers by draining them then forcing them back a couple times if you can get a good C clamp to give even pressure, often best to blow the 80 bucks and just buy new..

bmdbley'sBro
11-13-2007, 03:32 AM
After the plasma cutter was purchased along with setaleane I can get any bolt out now he he he.

I'v been able to save calipers by draining them then forcing them back a couple times if you can get a good C clamp to give even pressure,

often best to blow the 80 bucks and just buy new..

lol..

cool tip *th-up*

$80per. who, where? k.berk?

jeffrie
11-13-2007, 03:39 AM
Been awile since I'v had to purchase calipers..., but when I did it was @ that shop on Pink Rd in Alymer.

everlast
11-13-2007, 01:11 PM
It may just be the slider is seized up too, did you have those out to clean / grease? I did that once too and then stupidly touched the brake disk a minute later.. i left my fingerprint on the rotor. Literally, hehe.

I'd attempt a rebuild before buying new, but then I've never done it. :D

chromius
11-13-2007, 03:12 PM
^^^what Jay said.

Doesn't sound like the caliper requires replacing. If the piston seal is good, and it moves with a C-clamp then there is no need to replace the whole caliper. First thing to do is make sure the sliders are moving freely. Now I'm not sure how the e36 brakes are, but the E30 needed the sliders to be cleaned and greased. The e39 is greaseless and simply has replaceable rubber bushings around the sliders, and they're $14. So check to see what kind you have, because you don't want to grease the rubber bushing type, as the rubber will swell and prevent the slider from moving.

Also, make sure the sliders aren't damaged or scored, if they are, then replace them. Also a cheap item.

Don't replace the caliper until you figure out if it's an easy fix first, BMW brakes really are quite simple, and I doubt the caliper is shot. Also, are you sure you have the right pads/rotors for your car? Maybe one of those is too thick?

bmdbley'sBro
11-13-2007, 06:19 PM
I'd attempt a rebuild before buying new, but then I've never done it. :D

raph was looking into a rebuild kit... but his supplier don't carry rebuilds

my bro tried his dealers parts supplier today ...no calipers in stock


^^^what Jay said.

Doesn't sound like the caliper requires replacing. If the piston seal is good, and it moves with a C-clamp then there is no need to replace the whole caliper. First thing to do is make sure the sliders are moving freely. Now I'm not sure how the e36 brakes are, but the E30 needed the sliders to be cleaned and greased. The e39 is greaseless and simply has replaceable rubber bushings around the sliders, and they're $14. So check to see what kind you have, because you don't want to grease the rubber bushing type, as the rubber will swell and prevent the slider from moving.

Also, make sure the sliders aren't damaged or scored, if they are, then replace them. Also a cheap item.

Don't replace the caliper until you figure out if it's an easy fix first, BMW brakes really are quite simple, and I doubt the caliper is shot. Also, are you sure you have the right pads/rotors for your car? Maybe one of those is too thick?
yeah theres no b.fluid anywhere...

I've got silicone lube for rubber bushs so i can lube the hell out of all of it
if i take it apart for a 3rd time *sad*

and thats about all i can do...

I've had calipers seize before... on other cars..

everlast
11-13-2007, 06:51 PM
I just guessed at your car's details, but these should all be valid for an e36:

Caliper rebuild for less than $13CND
http://www.autopartsway.ca/AutoParts/quote.cfm?ID=1993~N1050-189082~001062089~BM~318-I-003~Caliper+Repair+Kit

Bushing kit, $11
http://www.autopartsway.ca/AutoParts/wizard.cfm?ID=1993~BM~318-I-003~All~Caliper+Bushing

Hope this helps.

bmdbley'sBro
11-13-2007, 06:53 PM
thanks man! *love*


http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x72/ill318/E36/th_1stto3rdnov.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x72/ill318/E36/?action=view&current=1stto3rdnov.flv)

chromius
11-13-2007, 07:00 PM
raph was looking into a rebuild kit... but his supplier don't carry rebuilds

my bro tried his dealers parts supplier today ...no calipers in stock


What exactly are you looking to rebuild? Everything that is in the rebuild kits is also available seperately. Guides, bushings, piston seals, caps. All those things even from the dealer should only be about $50-60. Autoparts online carries the bushings and piston seals kits. Don't think they carry the guides though.

bmdoubleya
11-13-2007, 10:35 PM
I'm getting him 4 used calipers off a 93 325i 4 door..

everlast
11-13-2007, 11:25 PM
I'm getting him 4 used calipers off a 93 325i 4 door..

Ya, that's the way to go. If you know they are good, especially, you can just bolt them on and drive away.

Here's a tip to not have them seize up: don't leave your CAR AT A TURBO SHOP FOR MONTHS. :D just j/k dude, i couldn't resist

bmdbley'sBro
11-14-2007, 02:07 PM
What exactly are you looking to rebuild? Everything that is in the rebuild kits is also available seperately. Guides, bushings, piston seals, caps. All those things even from the dealer should only be about $50-60. Autoparts online carries the bushings and piston seals kits. Don't think they carry the guides though.
i guess if the piston is not returing i'd need these parts for a rebuild
http://www.autopartsway.ca/AutoParts/quote.cfm?ID=1993~N1050-189082~001062089~BM~318-I-003~Caliper+Repair+Kit

i assume the 325i calipers would work??? diff rotor diam/thickness is the same? no? any1?

the uuc rotors i got say there for everything (318/325/328) except the m3..

i worry the 325i calips have been sitting in a shed for year though :huh?:

everlast
11-14-2007, 02:35 PM
yikes.. i'd be a little weary of rust in the calipers if they've sat for a year.

Boots R
11-14-2007, 02:40 PM
Longest screw extraction thread ever. :D

bmdbley'sBro
11-14-2007, 09:49 PM
Longest screw extraction thread ever. :D
no jokez my sadness & lack of skillz is Legendary

:D

everlast
11-14-2007, 10:12 PM
Us ottawa guys don't often have much to talk about.

bmdbley'sBro
11-16-2007, 02:37 PM
-
ok...so i took the the drivers side caliper apart again (4th or 5th time)

stepped on the brakes to push out the caliper piston, then clamped it back in.
per jeffries advice. I did that a couple of times.

sprayed everything with silicone lube (sliders & piston cover) put it back together
backed out of garage slight 3 degree slope..never touched the brakes, car just stops :mad:

so yeah as i drove around the block i never touched the brakes..
only needed to take my foot of the gas & i'd stop in like 15ft *thmbsdwn*

so it;s fuxzored..that 1 caliper.

anways took it apart again & threw my old shit on there & limped it to raph's *par-t*

chromius
11-16-2007, 02:57 PM
Adam, if you push the caliper completely in with the clamp, install the caliper with the new pads, does the rotor spin freely by hand?

bmdbley'sBro
11-16-2007, 05:00 PM
^

nope

after all my take apart put back togethers...
i could with the wheel on & using both hands (& alot of effort) get it to move a few inches

jeffrie
11-16-2007, 06:45 PM
Yah sounds like it has something binding in the piston's sleeve.
Looks like you need to rebuild the caliper.

chromius
11-16-2007, 07:20 PM
^

nope

after all my take apart put back togethers...
i could with the wheel on & using both hands (& alot of effort) get it to move a few inches

It's just that one side that does that? The other side went together alright and spins freely?

bmdbley'sBro
11-16-2007, 07:34 PM
It's just that one side that does that? The other side went together alright and spins freely?

yup ..

chromius
11-16-2007, 07:44 PM
Bummer, sounds like it's so close to being road worthy...homemade hydraulic press might break it free and push it in a little further...

Edit: Looking at the pic of it on page 2, it looks like there is some corrosion on the piston face. Maybe cleaning that off with a grinder might give a little more to play with too.

bmdbley'sBro
11-17-2007, 05:43 PM
Edit: Looking at the pic of it on page 2, it looks like there is some corrosion on the piston face. Maybe cleaning that off with a grinder might give a little more to play with too.

LOL thats the good the 1!!! the pass side one in that pic..
but i did go around them with some sanding material to clean off crud (both sides)

before i reassembled

maybe raph can try the 'homemade hydraulic press' sure he's got 1 :D

bmdbley'sBro
11-22-2007, 10:23 PM
-

Ok so striker got it figured out *th-up*








are you all ready?







Drum roll please











1mm lip on the inner pad, causing it not to return

a manufacturers defect from the mold.

who would'a thought!? ya so he grinded it for 1 second -bam *shiner*