View Full Version : 325e
09-02-2007, 01:54 AM
I'm currently in the market for a e30 325 and i came across an 87 325e. Just wondering what you all think about the "e" compared to the "i". I know it's an economical car and the rev limit is at 4500 but it has a lot of torque. There is one for sale for $1500 but i'm hoping to talk it down to an even grand. I'm looking for a winter car that i can also drive all year.
09-02-2007, 02:11 AM
I love my e
09-02-2007, 09:11 AM
A 325e was my first BMW.
I chipped it, and it actually has the highest horsepower gains on any BMW according to Turner Motorsports chart.
The extra horsepower and torque made for a great driving car.......
Plus that engine is so understresses they last forever.
I saw a mint mint mint one with over 521,000 km just last week......
Good luck with the purchase!
09-02-2007, 10:25 AM
If its your beater/daily it is an awesome car. I didn't have mine chipped for most of while I drove it but the chip makes a huge difference to the over all fun to drive part of the car.
That being said eventually the chip wears off (you get used to it) then its kinda dull again. But the motors are super reliable and run forever. I have over 300 thousand miles on mine and its still running pretty good.
09-02-2007, 02:25 PM
i was told by a guy that owns a stricly bmw recking yard and he said because they rev a little lower they dont come into nearly as many engine problems as Is do
09-02-2007, 05:43 PM
Thanks alot for all the responses. I'm looking at it tomorrow! i'll let you know if i decide to buy it and i'll post some pics.
09-03-2007, 10:05 AM
Cool man, I love me e30 still. Just waiting for the day I can go all out into it.
Keeping up at the e30 meets was starting to get tough :P
09-03-2007, 09:42 PM
I looked at it today and body wise in really good condition. But as for mechanical, when you start the car it idles high for about 25 seconds then it idles really rough almost to stall untill it warms up then it idles fine. Not sure what that might be.
The tac and temperature gauge doesn't work but the speedo and gas gauges do. I checked the fuse box in the engine and all fuses are fine. The doors do not lock or unlock with the key. They want to but dont move. The oil service light remains on after the car is off and key is out.
There is also a weird ticking/grinding sound from the engine. He did mention his mechanic looked at it and it need the valves re-adjusted. The fuel pressure is about 5lbs under stock? which could explain the rough idle.
He wants 1500. But with all these problems how much should i offer. I don't know how much it would cost me to repair the door locks and the tackometer.
09-03-2007, 10:35 PM
Lol, reminds me of my car.
The idle is most likely related to tie idle control valve, before I cleaned mine my car would idle wildly until it warmed up. I am not sure how much they run, but sometimes they just need to be cleaned.
The gauge cluster and Service Indicator lights are probably acting up in the car causing the tach not to work, and the oil light to act wonky. Those can range from 50 to about 150 (I am guessing) used, or you can swap the batteries out yourself and see what happens.
Valve adjustment sounds about right, I had to get mine done.
Fuel pressure I am not sure, clogged fuel filter or dying pump maybe?
Door locks are a pain, mine worked when they wanted.
09-03-2007, 10:45 PM
When you figure out the door lock thing, let me know. For some reason I can only lock mine from the doors, but not unlock, so I have to unlock from the trunk.
09-04-2007, 08:18 PM
Thanks guys. Not sure yet if i want to pick it up. Still looking for a winter beater.
For what you want, you won't beat an e. It's the closest you can come to having an "economy" 2.7, it gets great gas mileage and honestly it's really not all that slow. If you chip it and put in a 3.73 diff, or just the diff even, it's actually rather peppy. The only thing that I didn't like is that with the stock 2.93 diff, I never got fully used to launching it. I've been driving stick for 10 years and not that I ever stalled it but it just feels wrong to have to slip the clutch that long to get it going.
FWIW, before I ripped the engine out, my car had 395k on it, it sat for 2 years at the PO's house and it fired on the first try, and ran like new to the end. As was already said, you can pretty much divide the mileage in half on an eta. The low compression and just the physical inability to reach high engine speeds makes it last forever.
09-05-2007, 10:16 AM
before I swapped out my motor on my e it had about 480 - 500 K kms on it and I used to beat that thing daily... it begged for more!
09-06-2007, 09:14 PM
$1500 is a bit steep for the problems you've described.
You'll probably end up investing another grand or more to sort out the problems. The timing belt was recently changed on this right? ($400)
Valve adjustment equals smooth idle IF there is nothing else wrong. ie crack/tear in the intake boot.
The door locks require a replacement kit that the dealer sells.
I would offer $1000. Tell him you need the money to sort this car out.
09-07-2007, 11:18 PM
Thanks for the advice. I'm still not sure about everything. Not sure if the timing was done but the intake boot was replaced.
09-08-2007, 12:17 AM
if that car is worth 1000 bucks.. i wonder how much mine is worth! :)
09-08-2007, 06:14 PM
I drive a 325es and I love it. Such a good car for me (college kid with not much money but love good foriegn performance).
09-14-2007, 10:21 AM
I paid $1300 for my 325e 4 months ago. New timign belt, water pump, head, cams, valves, springs... the whole run. It had 218k miles then and 226k now. Its a great car and although its not an "i" or "is" it has been taken care of and I'd drive it anywhere. So there are deals. Does this look like a $1300 car?
09-15-2007, 12:04 AM
Is this car located in Brantford by any chance?
Owner did admit to me that it was repainted and was smacked in the rear quarter panel.
09-15-2007, 01:42 AM
Door lock rebuild kits can be found at pelican parts. It's a fun job, not hard at all. If it has to do with central locking I'm lost. Be ready to replace all of the consumable stuff like timing belt and fuel filter if it has no reciepts. Have fun with it. It should be a great DD.
09-19-2007, 04:00 PM
Definitely do the timing belt for sure. Alot of people are morons when it comes to keeping up with the replacement intervals.
As for the bodywork... as long as the frame is ok then you can just do the bodywork yourself or find a good shop.
10-13-2007, 02:19 PM
lol. I just found this thread. I bought the car as a fun driver for my Girlfriend, and a project for me. My first E30: I've been looking for a while for a cheap project....
The locks were an easy fix (corrosion at the door plug), and I'm fairly certain the tick is coming from VERY noisy injectors. The valves are all in spec.
The car needed a battery, front brakes, tie rod end, and timing belt. I'm working through those. I just found out it needs a clutch...which is a real pain. It slips in the upper gears.
I'm trying to decide what to do: I could grab a single mass flywheel, lighten it, put a decent clutch in it, and drive it. ("I" head, turbo, and Megasquirt down the road)
OR I could M30 swap it. I have a line on an M30 engine/trans combo for less than it would cost me to buy a clutch and timing belt kit...... I'm just trying to figure out the driveshaft solution for the e28 drivetrain.
(All work would be DIY...last car was a Meqasquirted 2.4 turbo Neon)
Love the forum...
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