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View Full Version : Lighter hood, sunroof and bumper choices


static
07-17-2006, 04:32 PM
Hi

I'd like to put my car's front end on the diet to achieve a better weight balance.

I was looking into changing hood and bumper to lighter fiberglass parts.
Saw Paul's FG hood - very very good quality but expensive (understandibly)

Also i heard one can shave some weight substituting front valence/bumper with FG counterparts. FG sunroof plug would also help (don't really use it much, i held one in my hand and it's heavy and is up high = bad)

What are my choices locally? (don't feel like getting raped on shipping)

Thanks
Alex

craz azn
07-17-2006, 05:22 PM
Paul's fiberglass hood was bought from my dad... We also can get sunroof 'skins' in fiberglass, but it would have to be permanent, ie no more opening etc... those two are significant weight savings by themselves. Fiberglass fenders are not worth the savings VS the cost IMO.

I assume you've deleted all the AC parts from your ride. Thats all I can think of for now... unless you wanted to get really crazy. Then delete all the sound insulation from the firewall, take out/or drill the crap out of your bumper rebars, scrape all the undercoating from the inside of your fenderwells..... but thats WAY too extreme IMO, LOL

static
07-17-2006, 06:29 PM
Thanks Rudy. I'll PM you about details

Yes AC is all removed. I am still a bit hesitant about FG hood. I heard that the stock hood is a crumple zone in front collision, and i don't know how much FG hood substitute will negatively impact safety of my car (you see, my car is a daily... ...racer ;) ) For the same reason i don't want to mess with the bumper shocks and the rebar.

Slowered318
07-18-2006, 05:43 AM
Complete AC system iz around 20 lbs. - kinda worth it... but not when its 32 degrees out!

Any frontal collision with an e30 will hit the hood mainly. This is because of the low position of the front bumper compaired to other cars. So go with fiberglass at your own risk!

You can reduce weight by removing the sunroof - but who wants to lose that huge and wonderfull sunroof

Drilling or removing the rebar in the bumpers will only save you a few punds and again its a major safety issue.

Some ideas for you.. the smaller 318 fuel tank, aluminum flywheel, remove sound absorbing, plexy side windows (again structural), aluminum control arms, ultra light wheels, manual steering

Most effective would be to acid dip the shell, go all fiberglass, swap for E30 M3 motor LOL

Really nothing you can do and even as is your car is still way closer to 50/50 then most things on the road. You can always tweak the suspension to help correct handling problems.

Slowered318
07-18-2006, 05:57 AM
I put my car on a diet when I re-built it. I took out everything I could find that was not needed. Removed the AC as well. Maybe lost 30 lbs at the most (but that's a buget diet)

You could always date really small Asian women. :)

Axxe
07-18-2006, 01:05 PM
Alex, why do you want to remove the weight? Are you racing, and need that slight edge? Or do you want "street cred" for having lightweight shit on your car, because that's all it is if the car isn't spec'd out to be an all out race car.

ara325
07-18-2006, 01:15 PM
Personally I would rather put that money towards FI or something. Add HP rather than remove unnecessary components.*th-up*

Axxe
07-18-2006, 02:29 PM
Personally I would rather put that money towards FI or something. Add HP rather than remove necessary components.*th-up*


Fixed.

But yeah, I think Alex has more than enough power for now.

1BADRIDE
07-18-2006, 02:39 PM
LSx/T56

/END THREAD.

Axxe
07-18-2006, 03:12 PM
No, not end thread. He just did an S52 swap, why would he swap to LSx? Doesn't make any sense.

Gleb
07-18-2006, 06:15 PM
Paul's fiberglass hood was bought from my dad... We also can get sunroof 'skins' in fiberglass, but it would have to be permanent, ie no more opening etc... those two are significant weight savings by themselves. Fiberglass fenders are not worth the savings VS the cost IMO.

I assume you've deleted all the AC parts from your ride. Thats all I can think of for now... unless you wanted to get really crazy. Then delete all the sound insulation from the firewall, take out/or drill the crap out of your bumper rebars, scrape all the undercoating from the inside of your fenderwells..... but thats WAY too extreme IMO, LOL

Please pm me about the details on the FG hood and sunroof.
Thanks.

ara325
07-18-2006, 07:39 PM
Fixed.

But yeah, I think Alex has more than enough power for now.

sorry, i missed the s52 part...i was eating lunch at the time:D

static
07-18-2006, 09:01 PM
sorry, i missed the s52 part...i was eating lunch at the time:D

us s50 (m50b30) actually, and i would still prefer it to s52 due to obd2 headache and not as much revviness due to larger stroke.
And no, the power is not enough now (spoiled?) i actually keep worrying that something is wrong with my engine/fuel system/sensors/... cause it just feels like there should be more power but there isn't ... (is that by any chance a symptom of some medical condition?)

I need lighter nose mostly for racing (plan to do some more events this year) and generally for more neutral feel - i found that car plows a little with it's heavy nose. (or maybe it's just the fault of the layer between the seat and steering wheel)

in retrospect, i understand now why purists hate people who put larger i6's into e30m3's. S14 FTW if you can afford to upkeep it

.. shit! i can't wait till i am rich and can afford an elise

static
07-19-2006, 12:09 AM
And no, the power is not enough now (spoiled?) i actually keep worrying that something is wrong with my engine/fuel system/sensors/... cause it just feels like there should be more power but there isn't

actually nevermind on that one, just went for a drive in this cool weather and the car is a monster (according to butt dyno: feels like the day heat robs it 40-50hp easily) no surprise there - i have a HAI

ara325
07-19-2006, 12:37 AM
actually nevermind on that one, just went for a drive in this cool weather and the car is a monster (according to butt dyno: feels like the day heat robs it 40-50hp easily) no surprise there - i have a HAI

I find that my car (m20b25) runs best at ~ 10deg C. Colder air is more dense and combusts better/bigger/more oxygen, which i think is the reason cars run better in the cool. I love the fall for that reason...humidity FTL*uzi*

HAI = Hot Air Intake?...lol

craz azn
07-19-2006, 12:51 AM
^^ ya I agree... colder air makes such a difference.... coming back from Fils shop last night at 2am on the 401, my car pulled so well... I thought WhyTF did I get to 220 so fast?? sweet:cool:

markw
07-19-2006, 01:53 AM
^^ ya I agree... colder air makes such a difference.... coming back from Fils shop last night at 2am on the 401, my car pulled so well... I thought WhyTF did I get to 220 so fast?? sweet:cool:
I was at Fil's around 8 lastnight :D

Mystikal
07-19-2006, 11:16 AM
I agree with what Tomek posted.

Also:
I need lighter nose mostly for racing (plan to do some more events this year) and generally for more neutral feel - i found that car plows a little with it's heavy nose. (or maybe it's just the fault of the layer between the seat and steering wheel)

Pick and choose:

M3 rear sway.
Thicker rear spring pads.
Real width tires all around.
Slow the hell down on turn-in.
Adjust tire pressures.
Stiffer springs all around, emphasis on rear (I really think the fronts are too soft for an S50).
More front toe-in.
etc, etc...

static
07-19-2006, 02:29 PM
I agree with what Tomek posted.

Also:


Pick and choose:

M3 rear sway.
Thicker rear spring pads.
Real width tires all around.
Slow the hell down on turn-in.
Adjust tire pressures.
Stiffer springs all around, emphasis on rear (I really think the fronts are too soft for an S50).
More front toe-in.
etc, etc...

thanks for suggestions: let me go through them..

rear sway: well my rear end already has a tendency to swing out quite happily at power corner exits - i think bigger rear sway will only make it worse, no?

thicker rear spring pads: ????? lifting the rear this way will transfer more weight to the front - don't see how that would help

real tires: yea, agree on that one - hankooks in 205 just didn't cut it, have to go for 225 next time around.

slow down: ... but i don't want to

tire pressures: ran 38psi front and 37 psi rear

stiffer springs: the car is a daily. I think i have it overdamped - what should be a good setting on koni's for H&R sports?

front toe in: i hear it's good for high speed stability, how does it help in my situation? (again - daily). Maybe you meant more negative camber?


Alex

static
07-19-2006, 02:34 PM
btw, i don't give one shit about "street cred" and yes HAI, is a filter stuck right between the rad, coolant hoses and coolant res: didn't really have a choice there, e30 engine compartment's front left corner is extremely cramped, most of all i hate the location of the ABS pump (really tempted to remove it when i redo all the hardlines, but the wuss in me says no)

craz azn
07-19-2006, 04:59 PM
Wouldn't toe-out be more effective for better turn-in??

static
07-19-2006, 10:19 PM
Wouldn't toe-out be more effective for better turn-in??

i heard that toe-out is not better in any situation

Mystikal
07-20-2006, 12:50 AM
thanks for suggestions: let me go through them..

rear sway: well my rear end already has a tendency to swing out quite happily at power corner exits - i think bigger rear sway will only make it worse, no?

thicker rear spring pads: ????? lifting the rear this way will transfer more weight to the front - don't see how that would help

real tires: yea, agree on that one - hankooks in 205 just didn't cut it, have to go for 225 next time around.

slow down: ... but i don't want to

tire pressures: ran 38psi front and 37 psi rear

stiffer springs: the car is a daily. I think i have it overdamped - what should be a good setting on koni's for H&R sports?

front toe in: i hear it's good for high speed stability, how does it help in my situation? (again - daily). Maybe you meant more negative camber?


Alex

The tail swinging out is a result of 205 tires and 240hp.

Thicker rear pads will raise the roll centre, and lead to MORE weight transferred rearwards during cornering. Ask guys with GC setups, playing with the rear height REALLY changes the balance.

No idea what the dampers should be set at.

And I did make a typo on the toe advice. I meant to type LESS front toe-in.

Axxe
07-20-2006, 03:10 AM
More front camber. Real tires. That made my car turn in really, really well. I should have taken you for a spin with the R-comps, car was on rails.

BTW Jay, some guys find that having the ass lower helps get rid of some twitchyness (the guys that use GC's on the track extensively). Even with my low ride height and rear camber, I was heating the entire rear tire evenly, and not having many power out issues. I'm not saying I couldn't control the angle of the car with my right foot, it's just that I didn't have the power in 4th @ 160 to make the ass misbehave without misbehaving myself.

Alex: When powering out, apply the gas smoothly and slowly, this will shift weight back before you apply full power. Also, you have to wait until the car is straightening out, nothing will help you if you mash the gas in the middle of a turn, or lift (even worse).

static
07-20-2006, 09:52 AM
thanks for pointers guys

Alex

ara325
07-20-2006, 01:00 PM
Also, you have to wait until the car is straightening out, nothing will help you if you mash the gas in the middle of a turn, or lift (even worse).

taht's where all the fun is:D but you're right...safety first. Wait until you're almost straight before dropping the hammer.

Mystikal
07-20-2006, 06:28 PM
BTW Jay, some guys find that having the ass lower helps get rid of some twitchyness (the guys that use GC's on the track extensively). Even with my low ride height and rear camber, I was heating the entire rear tire evenly, and not having many power out issues. I'm not saying I couldn't control the angle of the car with my right foot, it's just that I didn't have the power in 4th @ 160 to make the ass misbehave without misbehaving myself.

Fully aware, that's what I was talking about. With 300/475 rates and my raked look, the car was oversteering quite a bit. In a two-birds move I upped the front rates to 375 to get rid of my bottoming issue and allow me to keep the high rear height without a nervous ass.

Worked like a charm. *th-up*

Axxe
07-20-2006, 07:19 PM
Fully aware, that's what I was talking about. With 300/475 rates and my raked look, the car was oversteering quite a bit. In a two-birds move I upped the front rates to 375 to get rid of my bottoming issue and allow me to keep the high rear height without a nervous ass.

Worked like a charm. *th-up*


Figured. I was going to say that a stiff front spring rate encourages understeer, the same way a stiff rear rare encourages oversteer.

craz azn
07-25-2006, 08:08 PM
Don't mind me:)

craz azn
07-25-2006, 08:12 PM
...*wave*

paul christians
07-25-2006, 08:17 PM
^^^^^So RUDY can you still open the SUN ROOF still,and if so get me ONE please and thank you......

static
07-25-2006, 11:02 PM
so how is the fit and rain-proofness? i wouldn't want to swap it back and forth and as i said my car is a daily

craz azn
07-26-2006, 12:16 AM
you can see how it roughly fits in terms of the shape... I just layed it in my car with an open roof to demonstrate the shape.... you'd have to fabricate some little tabs to bolt it to the roof. It would be perminant. ie no more opening. And as for a seal, use Urethane. that will seal very well. but then its in for good:)

static
07-26-2006, 10:00 AM
And as for a seal, use Urethane. that will seal very well. but then its in for good:)

.. or for removability use kitchen sink sealant :)
seriously tho, i'd hate to glue it onto my car. What if i decide that i dont like it for whatever reason.
Also is the price different for different amount of layers? it seems strange that price is the same for 1-2 and 3 layers

btw nice sig, Rudy

craz azn
07-26-2006, 11:21 AM
good question... I will ask the dad if the $$ are gonna be different.. but I dont think it will be any different.

thanks about the sig.. the old one haunted me too much with my black car on there.. had to do something about that, hahaha

Axxe
07-27-2006, 12:09 AM
Rudy, how much for that panel? Curious :D

craz azn
07-27-2006, 12:20 AM
150$

Alex, I asked my dad... hes like not gonna be much difference, maybe a couple dollars more, not more than 20$ he says....

static
07-27-2006, 06:51 AM
ok cool, so is he gonna order a thicker one for a selling showcase? (it would be a good idea since several people are interested)