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View Full Version : snapped a strut upper stud - bad?


static
07-09-2006, 09:46 PM
Hey guys

was torquing up all kinds of bolts and nuts on my e30 today in preparation for a track day at Shannonville.
Was torquing up the strut nuts by hand (3 on each side, ones on top of the strut tower) and one of the studs snapped off. The other 2 seem strong tho - is it still safe to drive the car in this state? I understand that it would be not advisable at the least to go to track this way, but how bad could it be and am i setting myself up for trouble?
Needless to say that all the shops are closed right now and the track day is tomorrow early morning.

advice?

Thanks
Alex

e30_kid89
07-09-2006, 10:23 PM
its all on u but i think theres 3 for a reason.....just play it safe espically since ur goin to the track IMO

T.Dot_E30
07-10-2006, 12:29 AM
NickP lost one of those and only used 2 until i got him one, he says its amazing what that one small bolt does, it made a difference and he could feel it.

Needless to say I wouldn't recommend taking it to the track.

NickP
07-10-2006, 12:37 AM
NickP lost one of those and only used 2 until i got him one, he says its amazing what that one small bolt does, it made a difference and he could feel it.

Needless to say I wouldn't recommend taking it to the track.

Thanks for that again!

Yeah I could definitely tell a difference without that bolt - mine disappeared while installing the strut bar on my car.

Most dealers don't stock the part - the part isn't expensive - but you'll have to wait a couple of days.

e30_kid89
07-10-2006, 12:56 AM
arent those 3 nuts like generic nuts that can be bought at home depot if u know the right size or am i talking about something else?

NickP
07-10-2006, 01:07 AM
arent those 3 nuts like generic nuts that can be bought at home depot if u know the right size or am i talking about something else?
The nuts are - the bolts are a press fit into the strut bearing.

Eurostyle
07-10-2006, 01:17 AM
Here is what you do; press out (or drill out) the broken piece, then install a normal bolt/nut untill you get the right one!

static
07-10-2006, 06:44 AM
thanks a lot guys

keep your fingers crossed for me, i'll be riding on 2 bolts

Alex

static
07-10-2006, 10:39 PM
update: raced teh heck out of it and nothing happened with the strut

funny thing with e30 donut-brakes. Was going hot into a turn, squeezed the breaks but i guess they were already overheated, so got a bit of fade, didn't make it into the turn and ended up on the grass (thank God for no mosport-style concrete walls at Shannonville)
Anyway, as soon as i stop on the grass i get smoke comming out all around the car - i freaked out and quickly got out of the car.
The sight was unnerving - the pads were exhibiting heavy smoke on all four corners. I thought i cooked them, but they still work quite well.

Axxe
07-10-2006, 11:19 PM
update: raced teh heck out of it and nothing happened with the strut

funny thing with e30 donut-brakes. Was going hot into a turn, squeezed the breaks but i guess they were already overheated, so got a bit of fade, didn't make it into the turn and ended up on the grass (thank God for no mosport-style concrete walls at Shannonville)
Anyway, as soon as i stop on the grass i get smoke comming out all around the car - i freaked out and quickly got out of the car.
The sight was unnerving - the pads were exhibiting heavy smoke on all four corners. I thought i cooked them, but they still work quite well.


Simple solution; don't brake so much. I hardly use brakes at Shannonville, but then again, I had a lot less power than you, and still thought standard E30 brakes were undersized, but you said any braking system is adequate with enough cooling.

craz azn
07-10-2006, 11:35 PM
Alex, what kinda pads and stuff you running? and brake fluid??

Soldo
07-10-2006, 11:39 PM
update: raced teh heck out of it and nothing happened with the strut

funny thing with e30 donut-brakes. Was going hot into a turn, squeezed the breaks but i guess they were already overheated, so got a bit of fade, didn't make it into the turn and ended up on the grass (thank God for no mosport-style concrete walls at Shannonville)
Anyway, as soon as i stop on the grass i get smoke comming out all around the car - i freaked out and quickly got out of the car.
The sight was unnerving - the pads were exhibiting heavy smoke on all four corners. I thought i cooked them, but they still work quite well.


Had the same thing happen to me as well, i got so much fade that once i got to the straight away i braked before entering the turn and NOTHING.... i just shot off into the grass. Busted my fanblade like that!

static
07-11-2006, 09:55 AM
Alex, what kinda pads and stuff you running? and brake fluid??

Hawk HPS and ATE superblue.

It wasn't like brakes didn't work at all, rather didn't work as good as in the beginning, thus the wipe out.
I guess cooling would help a lot, however i noticed that rear brakes were smoking much more than front ones.
I wonder if it's possible to come up with some cooling solution for rear brakes too. (vents coming from underneath rockers?)

Locked the brakes only couple of times (my ABS doesn't work right now) and i could modulate it quite good, so that makes me want to get rid of the ABS components more and more (frees up critical space for a CAI and less nose weight of course)

BTW, tires worked great for being just 205 size (Hankook RS-2).
Something i noticed about the compound of these tires: upon close examination, it looks/feels like a blend between street performance rubber and R-comps.

I am definitely going with same ones (thanks you Jay) in 225 next time around (Axxe you were right) as i've surpased the tire limits many times on the track (esspecially the rear ones :) .

I also did a shotgun with a good friend of mine in his s2000 (he's very skillful) and on street tires (205/225) our cars felt pretty similar in the corners (hooray for e30), e30 didn't have as happy of a tail tho.
S2000 on r-comps is a different story of course.

All in all, i consider Shannonville a perfect blend between an autoX and Mosport big track - feels perfect to me.

static
07-11-2006, 10:10 AM
but you said any braking system is adequate with enough cooling.

i still believe this. It's all about leverage and assist. I had enough booster assist to be able to lock the wheels (dry road, warmed up rubber) with like 7/10 on my right foot pushing ability scale. So it's not the issue of lack of brake torque. Because of the small doughnut-rotors, i'd imagine the wear and tear on poor pads is huge (leverage) - guess thats what send them cooking like this. Also lack of dissipation area prevents them from cooling down fast.

Seeing that: BBK = ~$2500, 5lug+E36 brakes = ~$2500CAN, ...
I think that the best solution would be to make some ghetto vents and loose weight on the car (less weight to stop)
I was really impressed when i saw Paul's stock looking fiberglass hood - 15lb against 60lb (45lb reduction from the top of the nose right there), look and function is absolutely the same (after painted), it's f'n awesome, but pricy. Reducing the nose weight will alow me to strip 50lb of trunk tar without f'n up car's balance: ~100lb reduction right there.

Axxe
07-11-2006, 10:21 AM
Alex, I never said stock brakes had inadequate torque, I simply stated the obvious fact that it's much easier to overcook saucers than dining plates, due to the difference in size.

Also, stock rear rotors are not vented, and any ducting really won't help much. The best thing to do is to bend a portion of the rear dust shield and angle it to direct air at the rotors. It will help some, but with proper front cooling, the rears will ALWAYS be hotter, and eat pads faster (beleive it or not). Solid rotors FTL.

static
07-11-2006, 03:00 PM
funny thing you are talking about vented rotors and air venting to cool rotors

IMO backing plates with airvents were not designed to blow cool air into the vents in the rotors as it is evident from these pictures
http://www.windycitybmw.com/articles/e30M3BrakeDucts.asp

Alex

e30_kid89
07-11-2006, 10:57 PM
i still believe this. It's all about leverage and assist. I had enough booster assist to be able to lock the wheels (dry road, warmed up rubber) with like 7/10 on my right foot pushing ability scale. So it's not the issue of lack of brake torque. Because of the small doughnut-rotors, i'd imagine the wear and tear on poor pads is huge (leverage) - guess thats what send them cooking like this. Also lack of dissipation area prevents them from cooling down fast.

Seeing that: BBK = ~$2500, 5lug+E36 brakes = ~$2500CAN, ...
I think that the best solution would be to make some ghetto vents and loose weight on the car (less weight to stop)
I was really impressed when i saw Paul's stock looking fiberglass hood - 15lb against 60lb (45lb reduction from the top of the nose right there), look and function is absolutely the same (after painted), it's f'n awesome, but pricy. Reducing the nose weight will alow me to strip 50lb of trunk tar without f'n up car's balance: ~100lb reduction right there.
im sure there's some decent 4lug bbk's out there......i've seen em and they dont look that expensive but i cant remeber how much. i know it was close to or under 1G......isnt IE's bbk for 4lug e30s???