View Full Version : e-brake replacement help. I'll PAY!

07-06-2006, 07:34 AM
Hey I am looking for someone who would be willing to fix my e-brake. I just dont have the knowledge and time to do it. I'm not sure if its the cable that needs to be replaced or the system in the rear brakes. Even if you could point me towards someone who could do it for a decent price that would be great. perferably in the Durham Region. and I'like i said, i would pay someone to do it. Money, beer, greenery:D , whatever thanks.

07-06-2006, 02:34 PM
no bmw techs in the area????????

07-06-2006, 02:54 PM
Take it to Town & Country on Kennedy south of Hwy 7 on the east side. I think they'll take cash over the beer or greens... :D

07-06-2006, 03:08 PM
whats the year and make of your car?


07-06-2006, 03:40 PM
1989 325i 2dr.

07-06-2006, 04:30 PM
i usually found that the handbrake mechanisim in behind the rear rotor gets seized. you can pull on the handbrake all you want, but the pivot part of the lever in the handbrake assembly wont expand the shoes.
you have to remove the rear rotors and remove all the hardware and clean and lubricate the pivot part. depending on the condition of the cables, you might have to replace them as well. to remove them, inside the car remove the handbrake boot and loosen off the 9mm locknut and then the 12mm adjusting nut and then from outside of the car you will see where the cable runs into 2 metal tubes. they are more than likely to be seized as well. the trick is to use some heat like from a torch and lightly heat that tube until you can pull the cable out from that metal tube. if you pull to hard without heat you will yank the metal tubes fromt he body and then your ****ed... lol
disconnect the cable from the handbrake hard ware and pull from the back of the spindle and install your new cables.
i hope this helps, and let me know how it goes.


07-06-2006, 04:47 PM
thanks the info does help alot. i was also told that to replace the cable you have to remove the exhust heatsheild, and drive shaft. which i thought was pretty odd. is this true?

07-06-2006, 05:01 PM
driveshaft no... the rear small exhaust heatsheild, yes, not difficult at all. 4 screws and take it out. its probably all rusted out too..

07-06-2006, 05:05 PM
thanks alot man that helps out as alot. i thought i was gonna have to remove all that crap. scared me away from it. i'll try and give it a shot this weekend. again thanks. your a big help.*th-up*

07-07-2006, 01:50 PM


08-19-2006, 03:38 PM
Finnaly got around to checking out my ebrake and was surpised to find that I had none! LOL! Like there really was nothing there.

So I need everything that is missing from here. For both drivers and passengers side.

The ****nut who sold me this said oh ebrake wasnt working thats why its not certified. Could have at least told me cause there are none there.

So let me know if you have what i need thanks.


08-19-2006, 04:03 PM
lol how did you get it certified?

The backing plates are most likely screw, making the hold down pins not stay in properly.

Thats what happened to one of my e30s and i removed everything like that, bcus its auto and i never used it.

08-19-2006, 05:14 PM
meh who needs a ebrake little peace of wood for big hills and just keep it in 1st on normal roads :D

08-19-2006, 05:17 PM
i havent certified it yet. because of the ebrake, and i would leave it in gear but it wont hold whatsoever. *mumble* (which is really weird) thats why i need an ebrake.

08-19-2006, 06:16 PM
I just redid my whole ebrake system, it's quite easy. You may need new backing plates, in which case it won't be easy.

You'll need shoes, hold down pins, actuator, adjuster (little star thing), maybe new cables, pins in the cable (like$1), maybe new cable housing depending on what condition it's in.

If you dont have a repair manual you should get one, because this is covered pretty good in them, and it helped me a lot. Also don't buy the actuator at the dealer, it's $50, and it's about 2 cents worth of metal. I'll send you pics of it if you need to know what it looks like.

Weird that in gear it won't hold the car, me thinks you might need more than an ebrake fix.

PM me if you have any q's on the ebrake.

08-19-2006, 09:04 PM
it is hell to get to the backing plates.......i did one side so it would hold enought to certify and it did*angel*

to change the backing plates (if rusted out) you will need to:

-drive out the halfshafts
-press out the hub in which the process u will destroy the wheel bearing
-press out the wheel bearing - THEN u can change the plate
-press in new wheel bearing
-press in the hub
-drive in the halfshafts and install new nut and lock plate and torque to 210 foot pounds
-install all ur ebrake crap and ur done!!!!!!!!

that is the right way to do it, me i never used a press for the hub or bearing...

08-20-2006, 01:05 AM