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View Full Version : strokers! help out please


nismoMan
07-05-2006, 08:12 PM
OK heres what im going with, i did a search but couldnt really find the answers i was looking for. i want to do a stroker on my eta. my eta has 100k on it and its slower than dog piss. soooo heres what i believe i need and i already have the head complete with valves cam and what not.

timing belt and water pump new

head bolts new

325i parts that are needed.?

head (with cam,valves rockers and such)

intake manifold

maf (should i go with the 5 series one? ) and will it bolt right up or are you taking the guts out and putting them into the 325i)

bigger throttle body?

19 lb hour injectors

je pistons 85 mm 10:1 comp

and can i just bore my eta cylinder to match the piston

325i ecu with turner chip???

do i need the 325i wiring harness or can i keep mine???

and how much horspower will this make as stated with a 2 1/4 exhaust &intake with cold box
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Jordan
07-05-2006, 08:26 PM
Very vauge/misinformed/ignorant setup description.. but likely 190bhp or so. I'd correct some misinformation etc but I'm drunker then shit and I can't type or think very well right now.

I'll come back later.

nismoMan
07-05-2006, 08:31 PM
hahah cool, well you give me a list of what you would rplace and what needs to be replaced and what the correct specs and demensions are and i'll print it out. *drink*

dirtyd14
07-05-2006, 10:05 PM
u got the right idea.....but your goni to have to do a LOT more resurch PM me and i can help u out on some stuff.

Jordan
07-05-2006, 10:26 PM
Ohhh my head hurts...

OK so basicly as a general rule.. if you can buy it new, do buy it new. Don't reuse anything that is even remotely worn.

The biggest bottleneck on these engines is the head. The 12valve SOHC design sucks, but you can work with it and make power.

The only part of your eta you will keep is the block casting itself along with the crankshaft.

You should use a complete i head as a base, along with a complete i Motronic 1.3 setup including all wiring and sensors.

Port match a stock i manifold and leave the TB alone, not much else to be gained there without spending a ton of money for very minimal gains.

19lb injectors are ideal, get NEW.

There are no plug and play MAF's available. The one you are thinking is still a AFM. Use the AFM from the late M30 with the part number ending in 027. It is an electrical "plug and play" although you will have to let the ECU adjust.

If you plan on streeting this engine, and do not want aftermarket engine management then DO NOT exceed 9.5:1 CR. Detonation becomes such a huge issue beyond that and the gains are very minor as you get higher in CR. Deminishing returns definately apply's here. The difference (with nothing else changed) between 9:1 and 10.5:1 is about 2%

Eta block will need to be bored to 85mm, make sure they do NOT acid dip it. It will destroy the intermediate shaft bushings/bearings and they are NOT replacable.

My e30 with the 2.8L stroker I built was a blast.

233BHP / 238TQ
10.2:1 CR
7100rpm revlimiter
83.21 BHP/Litre

Attaining a specifc output that high from a NA m20 is very difficult. 75BHP/Litre is pretty damn good for a m20.. higher is astounding.

If you have specific questions feel free to ask me. No one here knows more about these engines and how to build a good one then I do.

dirtyd14 doesn't know his elbow from his asshole when it comes to producing a good build, but you are free to consult him for his "advice" too.

craz azn
07-05-2006, 11:37 PM
Hey Jordan... what connecting rods and crank did you use for your 2.8?

Also, what valve springs did you use? And lastly what kind of rocker arms???

EDIT: sorry, scratch the last 2 questions, I remember asking you that before....

dirtyd14
07-06-2006, 12:29 AM
actully jordan i do know my elbow from my asshole, and thats y i got a mildly built 2.7 stroker in my e30 that i race every weekend, and daly drive every day, i got over 20000KM on it and it still runs as strong as it did the frist day i ran it. Secondly i am building my second motor which we already discuesses is a 3.0L N/A stroker ....and only reson i am building that one is becasue i want u to shut you little mouth about having the best built stroker around. And u might know about building a motor, but remember i have been building race motors with my father and uncle, since i was about 12 year old, and i have also been workin in a machine shop here in town, where all i did for 2 years was rebuild cylender heads, blocks. bouring, port & polishing bla bla bla......So yes i do know a thing or 2 about building a motor.

So if u have any questions, please feel free to ask me about the stroker, our u can ask jordan also, because he know the difrence from his elbow and his asshole.

dirtyd14
07-06-2006, 12:31 AM
oh jordan, i actully like u better drunk, your a much nicer person.....(speeking about your first post)

Luke318is
07-07-2006, 03:23 PM
Great thread...
good info and lots of comedy as usual.

paul christians
07-07-2006, 04:22 PM
if you use the T/D, rods and pistions this cost $3000 or so, an I block and head $1000 or so and the machine is about $2000 or so...this for a 2.7 stroker and list is based on stock cam and stuff...one this just a rought price list only..I hope this helps you out more.......(can someone pass the popcorn please.......heheheheheheeee...just jooking there......)