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duffy325
07-07-2005, 09:20 PM
First thing.

Yesterday my reverse lights stopped working, which I thought was odd as I just replaced the switch (the one on the side of the transmission) as it was bad. Next time I started the car I got a taillight failure on driver side. Shut the car off and restarted it, no tail light failure, no reverse light failure, but the turn signal on the rear driver side wouldnt work. All day today I had intermittent reverse lights, no turn signal continuously, and brake lights are fine.

Is this the wiring that commonly goes bad at the trunk from opening and closing? What else could I check if not?

Second thing.

The car has developed somewhat of a high pitched squeel, not a shriek, but just a mild squeel. It goes away as soon as I put in the clutch, and comes back upon release of the clutch.A buddy of mine suggested it could be the throw out bearing. Would this make sense? Is it new clutch time? Is there anything else I should check first?

Thanks for your help folks.

Carl D.

-=[[f|L@pJ@cK=]
07-07-2005, 09:50 PM
Is this the wiring that commonly goes bad at the trunk from opening and closing? What else could I check if not?


This sounds like it is the wiring in the trunk (I had the same problem with my E36). Just pull of the plastic covering the wires, and I'm sure you'll find that a few of the wires are shortcircuiting one another. Easy fix, just electrical tape each wire individually and your problem should be solved *th-up*.

As far as the high pitched squealing goes, I also had that problem...I never figured out what it was coming from. Someone mentioned to me that it could be the fuel pump...

duffy325
07-07-2005, 09:57 PM
']This sounds like it is the wiring in the trunk (I had the same problem with my E36). Just pull of the plastic covering the wires, and I'm sure you'll find that a few of the wires are shortcircuiting one another. Easy fix, just electrical tape each wire individually and your problem should be solved *th-up*.

As far as the high pitched squealing goes, I also had that problem...I never figured out what it was coming from. Someone mentioned to me that it could be the fuel pump...

Excellent I will check the wiring. I assumed it was this but didn't want to have to go cutting things up to check without some confirmation.

Fuel pump suggestion is interesting. I have had fuel delivery problems on the track (over half tank), but would it make sense for it to go away when the clutch is depressed?

-=[[f|L@pJ@cK=]
07-07-2005, 10:04 PM
Fuel pump suggestion is interesting. I have had fuel delivery problems on the track (over half tank), but would it make sense for it to go away when the clutch is depressed?

hmm your right, if it was the fuel pump, I would think it should stay constant even when the clutch is depressed. So that can't be it...

does this happen all the time? In my case (I actually don't remeber if it went away when the clutch was depressed) but it was not consistent. The squealing would come and go.

app
07-07-2005, 11:01 PM
Sounds like a throw-out bearing. I had the exact same problem.

duffy325
07-08-2005, 07:02 AM
Sounds like a throw-out bearing. I had the exact same problem.

That's what my buddy thought. Does that mean its time to replace the clutch? Or just the bearing?

Edit: I have read that when you replace a clutch you have to (should) replace the flywheel at the same time? Is this true? What are other people doing at this point? Lightweight flywheel and clutch kit ie. UUC's kit? And lastly, how many hours is a clutch job?

Bruno
07-08-2005, 08:54 AM
The last two times the throw-out bearing was making noises, the clutch failed within two weeks...

Clutch job isn't too hard to do, great time to change your shifter linkage and the flywheel for a lightweight one. Best time to put Redline MTL and change all the transmission seals. Short shifter is great also.
The only pain I find on the E36 clutch jobs is the starter bolts... other than that it is just in and out with the transmission.

I just did one on a 325is and the clutch disc smoked there was nothing but metal on it. It got so hot that the slave cylinder tip (plastic) melted.
That was a nasty sight inside, we changed all the seals and new flywheel (dual mass 850 Cdn). The car never felt so good.
Clutch job, count 300 or so in labour cost, more if you change all the seals and the shifter. The clutch kit itself is another 300- 350 Cdn.
The UUC kit is the best but also the most expensive. you can just get a lightweight flywheel and an M3 clutch (more expensive than the 325i clutch).

Good luck with all that.

duffy325
07-08-2005, 08:59 AM
The last two times the throw-out bearing was making noises, the clutch failed within two weeks...

Clutch job isn't too hard to do, great time to change your shifter linkage and the flywheel for a lightweight one. Best time to put Redline MTL and change all the transmission seals. Short shifter is great also.
The only pain I find on the E36 clutch jobs is the starter bolts... other than that it is just in and out with the transmission.

I just did one on a 325is and the clutch disc smoked there was nothing but metal on it. It got so hot that the slave cylinder tip (plastic) melted.
That was a nasty sight inside, we changed all the seals and new flywheel (dual mass 850 Cdn). The car never felt so good.
Clutch job, count 300 or so in labour cost, more if you change all the seals and the shifter. The clutch kit itself is another 300- 350 Cdn.
The UUC kit is the best but also the most expensive. you can just get a lightweight flywheel and an M3 clutch (more expensive than the 325i clutch).

Good luck with all that.


Bruno thanks for the info.

Where would i go for this "a lightweight flywheel and an M3 clutch"? Do you sell these components through Racing King?

Do you agree that changing the flywheel is a must? Or just convenient?

And would you also say that the symptom I am describing is typical of a throwout bearing?

Thanks

M50E30
07-08-2005, 09:01 AM
Wouldn't a throw out bearing rattle than squeel? I know my throw out bearing is going since it rattling like a MOFO.

And as for the flywheel........just make shure you have it resurfaced any time you replace the clutch (will void your warantee if you don't). Or if your flywheel is a single mass then you can get it lightend while you need to take it out anyways.

duffy325
07-08-2005, 09:17 AM
Wouldn't a throw out bearing rattle than squeel? I know my throw out bearing is going since it rattling like a MOFO.

And as for the flywheel........just make shure you have it resurfaced any time you replace the clutch (will void your warantee if you don't). Or if your flywheel is a single mass then you can get it lightend while you need to take it out anyways.
I don't know about the rattling. Any other suggestion as to what it could be? The e36 325i has a dual mass flywheel.

Bruno
07-08-2005, 09:21 AM
The throw out bearing is ... a bearing and it squeels a lot.
The rattling is usually a noise from a defective dual mass flywheel.

Resurfacing the dual mass flywheel isn't done by any shop, I am not even sure what shop does it. I think that all the vanos E36 with A/C have the dual mass flywheel.

Installing a lightweight flywheel is convinient because you are at it as soon as you remove the clutch. But you don't HAVE to do it, only if you have extra cash burning yoru pockets.
I don't sell lightweight flywheel, the only one I have is for myself. You can get it from JB racing or I can get one imported for you.

You can locate the noise easy. Lift the side of the car, get someone to play with the clutch pedal and listen to noise... you will locate it very fast.

duffy325
07-08-2005, 09:41 AM
The throw out bearing is ... a bearing and it squeels a lot.
The rattling is usually a noise from a defective dual mass flywheel.

Resurfacing the dual mass flywheel isn't done by any shop, I am not even sure what shop does it. I think that all the vanos E36 with A/C have the dual mass flywheel.

Installing a lightweight flywheel is convinient because you are at it as soon as you remove the clutch. But you don't HAVE to do it, only if you have extra cash burning yoru pockets.
I don't sell lightweight flywheel, the only one I have is for myself. You can get it from JB racing or I can get one imported for you.

You can locate the noise easy. Lift the side of the car, get someone to play with the clutch pedal and listen to noise... you will locate it very fast.


Okay thanks. I'll have to think about the flywheel. I want to do it, but I also need new tires so we will see. Thanks for all the help everyone and anybody else that has input please share.

duffy325
07-13-2005, 10:40 AM
I have decided to get the UUC motowerks LTW flywheel/e34 M5 clutch kit. I have a few questions though especially from those of you technically savy.

#1. I have a small oil pan leak that I've been putting off, will having the transmission out etc.... make it easier? Read cost less than having it done at a later date in terms of time spent.

#2. Where is a good (canadian preferred) retailer of redline products? I think I want to get the MT-90 fluid.

#3. Is now a good time to have my transmission seals replaced? Is this something a competent mechanic, but not necessarily a BMW tech, could do without shagging anything up?

#4. Should I have my guibo replaced at this time as well?

#5. If the clutch kit does not come with an alignment tool, I will have to get one for the tech correct? (If he/she was not a BMW tech, I'm assuming they would have these).

I am thinking about having a guy in my town do the job, he is highly trained and has done work for me before and I trust him. He does not have a lot of BMW experience, but does work on vw, audi, and a guy's older rolls royce. But is this job better left in the hands of a BMW tech? He charges around 45/hr labour, and the dealership here charges 85/hr.

Thanks for all the input, I appreciate it. And let me know if there is anything else I am not thinking of, that would come in handy.

Bruno
07-13-2005, 10:51 AM
#1. I have a small oil pan leak that I've been putting off, will having the transmission out etc.... make it easier? Read cost less than having it done at a later date in terms of time spent.

Nope, removing the tranmission won't really make it easier... better access for some bolts that's it.

#2. Where is a good (canadian preferred) retailer of redline products? I think I want to get the MT-90 fluid.

I can get that.

#3. Is now a good time to have my transmission seals replaced? Is this something a competent mechanic, but not necessarily a BMW tech, could do without shagging anything up?.

Yes get all the seals changed, you need some special tools for that, but nothing tricky. As long as the seal is properly in place that shouldn't be a problem and the seals re cheap. Get all the shifter linkages/bushings changed. Best time for a short shifter like the M3.

#4. Should I have my guibo replaced at this time as well?.

Only if yours is bad, go under the car and inspect it. Guilbo will run you 70 - 75 Cdn or so

#5. If the clutch kit does not come with an alignment tool, I will have to get one for the tech correct? (If he/she was not a BMW tech, I'm assuming they would have these).

If the guy works on cars, he should have the tools. I bought all the BMW alignment tools so I don't have to play around with it.

If the guy is good and competent, then go for it. I got my clutch done by a BMW shop and it always squealed after that.... now I do my own, at least I know what I put in and what I change, no one can check while it is done.

This isn't a complicated job excpet for the starter bolts. and you can remove them without removing the intake. Make sure he knows about it.
Don't pay more than 400 (labour) Cdn for the complete job.

Best time to check your exhaust as it will have to come off, along with exhaust hangers and gakets.

duffy325
07-13-2005, 10:58 AM
#1. I have a small oil pan leak that I've been putting off, will having the transmission out etc.... make it easier? Read cost less than having it done at a later date in terms of time spent.

Nope, removing the tranmission won't really make it easier... better access for some bolts that's it.

#2. Where is a good (canadian preferred) retailer of redline products? I think I want to get the MT-90 fluid.

I can get that.

#3. Is now a good time to have my transmission seals replaced? Is this something a competent mechanic, but not necessarily a BMW tech, could do without shagging anything up?.

Yes get all the seals changed, you need some special tools for that, but nothing tricky. As long as the seal is properly in place that shouldn't be a problem and the seals re cheap. Get all the shifter linkages/bushings changed. Best time for a short shifter like the M3.

#4. Should I have my guibo replaced at this time as well?.

Only if yours is bad, go under the car and inspect it. Guilbo will run you 70 - 75 Cdn or so

#5. If the clutch kit does not come with an alignment tool, I will have to get one for the tech correct? (If he/she was not a BMW tech, I'm assuming they would have these).

If the guy works on cars, he should have the tools. I bought all the BMW alignment tools so I don't have to play around with it.

If the guy is good and competent, then go for it. I got my clutch done by a BMW shop and it always squealed after that.... now I do my own, at least I know what I put in and what I change, no one can check while it is done.

This isn't a complicated job excpet for the starter bolts. and you can remove them without removing the intake. Make sure he knows about it.
Don't pay more than 400 (labour) Cdn for the complete job.

Best time to check your exhaust as it will have to come off, along with exhaust hangers and gakets.


Thanks for the quick response. You are a lifesaver here.

Can you also get Royal Purple products? I'm reading reviews right now and the syncromax is supposed to be better than the redline mt-90. What do you use in your car?

Bruno
07-13-2005, 11:29 AM
Life saver... cool, that might reward me with some reputation points.

I use Redline MTL on BMW transmissions. I used it on saab also. Reduce noises, notchiness and makes the transmission smoother. I love that stuff and BMW shouldn't recommend ATF for their transmission.

UUC recommends the MT-90 if your have some rattling because of the lightweight flywheel (I think it is mainly a problem on the E46). Or you can get the idle raised on your chip.

duffy325
07-13-2005, 12:23 PM
Life saver... cool, that might reward me with some reputation points.

I use Redline MTL on BMW transmissions. I used it on saab also. Reduce noises, notchiness and makes the transmission smoother. I love that stuff and BMW shouldn't recommend ATF for their transmission.

UUC recommends the MT-90 if your have some rattling because of the lightweight flywheel (I think it is mainly a problem on the E46). Or you can get the idle raised on your chip.

Do you have the Redline products on your website or should I PM you for more details on that? Any suggestions for diff oil? I figure I'll get that done at the same time.

Edit:

Another question.

Which seals from the transmission will I need? I see there is an input/output seal. Do you know of anybody that sells a package of all the seals required?
I know Bavauto sells with their clutch kit all the transmission seals, the rear main seal (this is an engine seal correct?) and anything else needed.

Thanks
Carl