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View Full Version : Just installed K-Mac camber/caster plates


thinair
03-13-2004, 11:36 PM
Well, I went into the garage hoping to install my M front brakes, and I guess I got sidetracked when I decided to remove my coilovers.

Anyway, I had a set of K-Mac camber plates laying around and decided it was time to install them.

While I was there I removed the helper springs on my coilovers to give the wheels/tires some more clearance. Well, I no longer need my spacers up front to clear the springs.

I just maxed out all the caster and neg camber I could get until I get an alignment for now. The car is stored anyway.

SpudBoy
03-13-2004, 11:39 PM
Originally posted by thinair
Well, I went into the garage hoping to install my M front brakes, and I guess I got sidetracked when I decided to remove my coilovers.

Anyway, I had a set of K-Mac camber plates laying around and decided it was time to install them

planning on owning the autoX?

thinair
03-13-2004, 11:40 PM
Originally posted by SpudBoy
planning on owning the autoX?

Not until I get an extra set of wheels with auto-x DOT-R tires. *th-up*

SpudBoy
03-14-2004, 12:06 AM
Originally posted by thinair
Not until I get an extra set of wheels with auto-x DOT-R tires. *th-up*

doh!!!:mad:

KIRASIR
03-14-2004, 03:58 AM
They won't help you! :D



Originally posted by thinair
Not until I get an extra set of wheels with auto-x DOT-R tires. *th-up*

thinair
03-14-2004, 07:49 AM
Anyway, here are some more details.

Regarding the helper spring removal.....I removed the spring to give me more space between the tire and the spring perch. Before I was forced to use a 5mm spacer on the front wheels, even the stock wheels. Now I can almost pass my pinky finger in between the spring perch and the tire, without the spacers. I measured the height of the compressed helper spring and the spacer that goes in between the main and helper spring with the car on the ground. It happened to be 36mm, or 24 turns of the spring perch.

The purpose of the helper spring is to keep the main spring from becoming loose when the car gets unweighted, or lifted. When I lowered the car to the ground I relifted it. The static friction of all the bushings was enough to keep the strut from fully extending for about 15 seconds, keeping the spring from rattling. I can't see myself getting 15 seconds of air in my car for this to be an issue. I lifted one side of the car under the front jack point to simulate a really hard corner, sorta, and the inner spring never became loose thanks to the sway bar pulling up on the inner control arm.

I removed the strut from the car, zipped out the upper strut nut with an impact gun. I pulled off the upper shock mount and removed the springs. I cleaned off everything with a rag, threaded up the two spring perches 24 turns and reinstalled the main spring.

I really don't like how the strut dust boot doesn't do anything, I tried to zip tie it down, but it still wouldn't stay. Oh well, I'm gonna try to make some neoprene spring covers one day anyway.

Well I figured out which camber plate goes on what side, and put them over the strut shaft and tightened up the nut on top of the shaft. I reinstalled the strut in the car, I set the max setting and camber on the plates.

I lowered the car and now you can actually notice the front camber, it looks like the rear wheels. I need an alignment.

These K-Mac camber plates have urethane mounts, so I'm told they're not superly harsh on the street. With the camber full in, I'm supposed to have like -3 degrees camber, which I will probably dial out to -2 for street use, mark it, and set it back to -3 for auto-x. I'll probably set up my car with no toe in the front also. With the added negative camber I also get a lot more fender clearance, which will be nice for wider track tires/wheels. :) (17x9 on 255/40 Kumho Victoracers all around is my goal.) For caster I have no idea how much I have with the maxed setting, I also have offset lower control arm bushing which also add caster.

Now without the spacers on the front wheels I can use the shorter BBS 10.9 bolts that I got with my wheels.

Also, the front ride height remained unchanged at 12.5" from wheel center to fender lip. The K-mac camber plates are the same height as the factory strut mounts.

SickFinga
03-14-2004, 09:20 AM
If you dont see how you can be airbourne in your car for longer than 15sec, then you are driving too slow j/k

opes
03-14-2004, 04:46 PM
Nelson - you buy these from a guy on teutonic? I know he was selling for $250, which is a great price. Dealer wants $186 a side (!!) for M3 Upper Strut Mounts.

thinair
03-14-2004, 05:48 PM
Originally posted by opes
Nelson - you buy these from a guy on teutonic? I know he was selling for $250, which is a great price. Dealer wants $186 a side (!!) for M3 Upper Strut Mounts.

That's exactly who I bought them from. Buying used parts is the way to go.