PDA

View Full Version : Tried installing my Dinan front sway bar, problems!


Autotechnica
02-29-2004, 03:58 PM
Last night I decided I'd give it a shot and install my Dinan front sway bar. I jacked up the car and it looked easy enough. 2 bolts on each side securing the clamp for the bushings and 1 16mm bolt on each side for the endlinks.

I used a socket wrench to try to remove the 16mm endlink bolt. Holy hell, why are the bolts under the car sized up so badly? I could remove the bolts for my rear shocks, but not any of the sway bar bolts. I even used a 2m long metal pipe for leverage. The bolt didn't even budge!

Any ideas what I should do? My last resort is to bring it to Charlie (bimmersport) so he can use the airgun on it, but it seems dumb because the sway bar is so friggin easy to remove/install, minus the seized bolts of course. ;)

I don't have a heat gun or anything, would a blow torch work? I tried WD-40, no luck either.

Oh yeah, what's up the the angled washers that come with the package? I couldn't figure out what those were for. Can I just use the original washers from the stock endlinks?

Ah, look how sexy the Dinan bar is, it's egarly awaiting to be installed....

T.Dot_E30
02-29-2004, 04:21 PM
Do you have a propane torch? Plumbers use them for soldering copper pipes.....It doesnt get as hot, but it should make a difference.

If you dont know anyone with one goto home depo, they have tools for rent, they might have one.

Autotechnica
02-29-2004, 04:34 PM
Originally posted by TrEvOrLiCioS
Do you have a propane torch? Plumbers use them for soldering copper pipes.....It doesnt get as hot, but it should make a difference.

If you dont know anyone with one goto home depo, they have tools for rent, they might have one.

I have a propane blow torch. It's a little one but I'm not too experienced with this sort of thing, is this my only option before I bring it to the shop?

Thanks,

Bry

thinair
02-29-2004, 05:44 PM
Originally posted by Autotechnica
Ah, look how sexy the Dinan bar is, it's egarly awaiting to be installed....

What is so sexy about a bent blue bar that you can't even see once it's installed?:P

djcontra
02-29-2004, 06:14 PM
Spray some wd40 and let it sit overnight. Try again in the morning and it'll budge. The other solution is an impact wrench or air wrench as charlie suggested.

Autotechnica
02-29-2004, 07:04 PM
I already sprayed half a bottle of that stuff on last night.. I'll try again tonight. Hopefully that solved the problem.

Thanks DJ.

If not, looks like I'll be at Chucks tomorrow :D

Anyone with a compressor want to help me out?!

Bry

WASABI
02-29-2004, 07:13 PM
I'll bet ya there's loctite on the bolts. When I did my lowering springs I had a heck of a time taking the bolts off, and then noticed loctite on the bolts when I finally got them off with an air gun.

KIRASIR
03-01-2004, 03:33 AM
1) Remove the nut that connects the end link to the control arm.

2) Once the bar is out of the car, go to Canadian Tire/Home Depot and buy one of the 4 feet gas pipes. It should fit over your socket wrench. Then it's just a matter of undoing the bolt. :D

SL

Soldo
03-01-2004, 05:56 AM
i had the same problem when i was trying to fix my clutch. i had to remove my exhaust system, and the bolts WOULD NOT BUDGE...........had to saw em off, and then TAP the screw and pull it out, it was the biggest pain in my ass!!

thinair
03-01-2004, 06:25 AM
Originally posted by SOLDOMATIC 325i
screw and pull it out, it was the biggest pain in my ass!!

You really shouldn't set yourself up for jokes like this.....:moon:

tiestoE36
03-01-2004, 06:58 AM
Originally posted by djcontra
Spray some wd40 and let it sit overnight. Try again in the morning and it'll budge. The other solution is an impact wrench or air wrench as charlie suggested.

i have come across this problem before. this idea with the WD40 is a good start, but after grab your torch and heat up the bolt with the WD40 still on it. if it is either lock tight or just rust this should do it.

PS it is obivously normal for the bolt to flare up a little b/c of the WD40 on it.

Autotechnica
03-01-2004, 03:08 PM
Originally posted by KIRASIR
1) Remove the nut that connects the end link to the control arm.

2) Once the bar is out of the car, go to Canadian Tire/Home Depot and buy one of the 4 feet gas pipes. It should fit over your socket wrench. Then it's just a matter of undoing the bolt. :D

SL

Both nuts were stuck, the endlink bolt was stuck, then I tried the other bolt attaching the endlink to the control arm, also stuck! I didn't even bothing trying to remove the bolts attaching the clamp to the bushing.

Actually, I already tried the pipe method. That was my last resort. I used a 2m long hollow steel pipe, and it still wouldn't budge.



Guys, I don't feel good playing around with a blow torch and lighting up WD-40 :D Sorry, I'm pussy, I think I'll bring it to Charlie's.

Thanks,

Bry

notjoe
03-02-2004, 12:06 AM
Originally posted by Autotechnica
Both nuts were stuck, the endlink bolt was stuck, then I tried the other bolt attaching the endlink to the control arm, also stuck! I didn't even bothing trying to remove the bolts attaching the clamp to the bushing.

Actually, I already tried the pipe method. That was my last resort. I used a 2m long hollow steel pipe, and it still wouldn't budge.



Guys, I don't feel good playing around with a blow torch and lighting up WD-40 :D Sorry, I'm pussy, I think I'll bring it to Charlie's.

Thanks,

Bry

Didnt you ever play with hairspray and lighters when you were younger? :)

hioctane
03-02-2004, 01:54 AM
I've got the same frigin problem. I sheared two of the f'n bolts. I gave it a shot, now I going to the shop.

Autotechnica
03-02-2004, 08:32 PM
Just came back from Chucks and had my front Dinan bar installed. Wow, what a difference! The car understeers a bit more, but not as much as I expected. When you mash the throttle hard in the corners the front end runs a bit wide, but there's virtually no body roll! I actually have more confidence taking corners at much higher speeds than before. I used the middle setting (2/3) which is geared towards neutral handling. It's really very good indeed. Bumps are a lot harder on the suspension now, and the left and right side feels more connected. The car is so much more responsive. I actually like the slight increase in understeer. The car is more controllable now. High speed statability is also improved. The steering wheel is much tighter, the wheels just seem to turn so well with the steering wheel. After all these mods, I'm so unimpressed with BMW's factory handling.

I'll probably just swap out the rear bar for the M3 one I have sitting in my basement.

Amazing, sway bars are expensive, but save up if you have upgraded shocks and springs. It will be the best investment you ever make!

Oh yeah, also saw richie rich at chucks! :)

Bry

thinair
03-02-2004, 08:42 PM
Originally posted by Autotechnica
I actually like the slight increase in understeer.

How could you like the increased understeer? One of the main reasons for getting swaybars is to dial out the already excessive understeer that BMW's have.

I have mine set at soft front and stiff rear and it's fairly neutral, but might go to medium stiff on the front once I get an adjustable swaybar link and the camber plates installed (dialing in more front camber)

Autotechnica
03-02-2004, 08:46 PM
Originally posted by thinair
How could you like the increased understeer? One of the main reasons for getting swaybars is to dial out the already excessive understeer that BMW's have.

I have mine set at soft front and stiff rear and it's fairly neutral, but might go to medium stiff on the front once I get an adjustable swaybar link and the camber plates installed (dialing in more front camber)

My car had a bit too much oversteer before I installed the Dinan sway. Afterwards it gave my car a little more balanced neutral handling w/ the increase of understeer. My winter tires give out too quickly so oversteer isn't preferred right now. When I get on my summer tires I'm sure I'd want to put in the stiffer rear bar for more oversteer.

The Dinan bar seems to be the same shape (bends) and hopefully the same material as the BMW bars.

Bry

Autotechnica
03-04-2004, 07:54 PM
I had the rear '98 M3 sway bar put in by Charlie today. Turns out my passenger side sway bar endlink broke off completely! After Charlie removed it for me I just threw the cracked peice around and it broke again! God these things are so flimsy. Well anyways, that solved my rear end "clunk" problem that I've been experiencing lately. So if you've got an unexplained clunk in the rear, could be your sway bar endlinks.

Anyways, now that my car has virtually no body roll ;) The tires seem to grip much better. But then the limits are also reached much quicker. I threw the car around in some tight turns and the tires screeched like no tomorrow! They use to be whisper quiet no matter how hard I cornered.

My setup is now 27.2mm Dinan front (neutral setting) and 20mm M3 rear. The handling characteristics are quite neutral which is what I wanted. I'm sure if I set the front to it's softer setting I'll get some oversteer.

I just wanted to share, overall I'm very happy with the results. I'm so glad I had the sway bars installed. Now for some grippy tires :)

Now I'm going to look into getting those TMS sway bar reinforcement plates. What do they do exactly? I'm hoping it helps to reinforce the sway bars so the endlinks don't take as much of a beating. Anyone know where I can get stronger rear sway bar endlinks?

Thanks Charlie.. and Mike ;)

Bry

bart320i
03-04-2004, 09:57 PM
Propane torch should work. I had to use one when I was installing my springs. Just heat up the bolt until you see it turning orange (make sure you don't melt any bushings). When the bolt is nice and hot use the wrench with the bar for leverage and be carefull.

Autotechnica
03-04-2004, 11:57 PM
Thanks for the tip, but read my previous post ;)

Got it installed already, thanks.

Bry