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View Full Version : hello all, new to the forum need some help. Turbo E30 and have issues.


fuzion
02-09-2004, 08:38 AM
Hello all, back many months ago i posted(my initial posts actually) that i had started a turbo build on a 86 325e.

Well after many months of hell, the car is running, and strong for the most part, however i need some help from those who have done this sort of thing.

I was having blow by issues with the crankcase pressurizing. The breather line that goes bwtn the valve cover and the throttle body kept coming off, so i plugged the TB bosse and installed a catch can that would safely vent the crankcase to the atmosphere, without theoretically causing any vaccum leaks.

Well with the hoses clamped on tight and set up so the V/C vents through the catch can and out, i have stupid amounts of smoke existing the exhaust, to the point where i couldnt see cars behind me.....ok so what do i do?

I went to a gas station, pulled the clamp off the hose going to the valve cover and took the breater hose off, essentially creating a huge vaccum leak and allowing the crank case to vent to atmoshere while under boost.

Well i did this and it runs great, pulls stronger than with the car running through the catch can....this makes no sense to me.

As well, when the car came back to me originally a few days ago, i saw that breather line had slipped off the valve cover, telling me that the crankcase was still pressurizing under boost. I slid the line back on, played with the AFM adjustment and cold start injector and all was good.


Now my concern is this. Tomorrow morning when my buddy goes to start the car in the morning, breather line off, im *assuming* the car is gonna idle poorly and initally run like shit, but it will not smoke. The alternative to hook the line up and and create smoke screens all day.....

I dont know what to do.... if anyone knows what could be the potential problem, pls post up and help a fellow euro tuner.

:)

Jas

fuzion
02-09-2004, 08:38 AM
here are 2 pics of the car for ya'll. Sry the first one is a little blurred.

http://members.shaw.ca/impala65/TURBO3/115-1501_img.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/impala65/TURBO3/turbo3.jpg

notmpowered
02-09-2004, 06:00 PM
I'm sorry I can't answer your turbo question, but very nice car. Ask diegom6, he knows a lot about turbos.

BladeRunner
02-09-2004, 08:59 PM
sleeper......

davide30
02-09-2004, 09:20 PM
ok , i would like to know how many hp and PSI do you do with your turbo , with IC or not.

thank you
Dave

BladeRunner
02-09-2004, 10:50 PM
davide30 the trim around your rear windshield is that new or redone? i'm asking because my trim is comming off and the little metal piece, like on yours, on mine is a little rusted. your tint looks just like mine.

fuzion
02-09-2004, 11:01 PM
turbo setup includes.

Factory ETA engine

Rebuilt Garett T3 Turbo Trim .48 Compressor .60 Turbine(ill have to double check this when i get home, i cant remember)
Starion Front Mount Intercooler
2.5" T304 Stainless Steel Tig Welded Charge Pipes
Blitz Dual Drive BOV
Turbonetics Deltagate II Wastegate
Turbonetics MBC
3" stainless Downpipe going to a 2.25" custom exhaust(going to 3" stainless in the summer)
19lbs mustang injectors
12:1 Vortech FMU

Currently running 5psi.

taadow
02-10-2004, 12:51 AM
Your problem is that you have a 325e 2.7 and you need the head from a 325i 2.5 88-91 you will need to have the wires and the ecu from the 325i for this to work you will need to change the head gasket to the thicker gasket....you will also need to change you fuel system to a stand alone system and a bigger fuel pump...if you are going to change you fuel injectors dont use ford mustang injectors you will want to have a injector that will spray fuel not pore fuel into the block and if you are using a oil cooled turbo use the oil cooler set up from the 325i T off the line so your oil will go back into the block.

fuzion
02-10-2004, 01:24 AM
Originally posted by taadow
Your problem is that you have a 325e 2.7 and you need the head from a 325i 2.5 88-91 you will need to have the wires and the ecu from the 325i for this to work you will need to change the head gasket to the thicker gasket....you will also need to change you fuel system to a stand alone system and a bigger fuel pump...if you are going to change you fuel injectors dont use ford mustang injectors you will want to have a injector that will spray fuel not pore fuel into the block and if you are using a oil cooled turbo use the oil cooler set up from the 325i T off the line so your oil will go back into the block.


um.....no.

1) the turbocharger is a oil/water cooled turbo. The feed or the pressure is coming off of a "T" in from the Oil pressure sending unit. The return is going to the oil pan via a place on the pan where i had 5/8" drain tube welded on so the oil has a place to return quickly and safely. I could potentially benefit from an oil cooler, but it does not seem to be a necessity.

2) why do i NEED to go the IS head? is there any particular reason, along with the ECM? The 9:1 compression engine pulls just fine and has no actual running issues other than the blowby, which is the problem. Telling me to swap heads and ECM is not helping me solve the prob. With the ETA head and a 3mm thicker head gasket that is available for the engine, compression should drop to around what the IS engines run and i shouldnt have to worry.

3) The injectors are a 19lb bosch injector, identical to the 15lb injectors that i pulled out of the car. The only difference is that of the higher flow rate the so it can feed the engine it needs.

4) standalone fuel management eh? Really since the stock pump is more than enough fuel at 5psi. With a secondary pump, the car was getting too much fuel and it was bogging and back feeding raw fuel into the charge pipes. Fuel is not an issue.

diegom6
02-10-2004, 02:08 AM
Well come a board "again" I had/still have in minnor proportion the same problem.

looks like we aren't the only ones... look Other similar Case (http://www.r3vlimited.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3241&start=30)

and read also the 4 page.

I sealed the vaccum valve cover and TB.. I took the pipe that goes from the intake manifold to the blcok, I sealed the top part and made a "T" in the pipe, so the vapor fumes only(sopously) in to the sucker turbo pipe...but I still getting a bit of oil, always I smell burned oil

theo325
02-10-2004, 08:14 AM
I would put a mini K&N filter on the valve cover and on the crankcase, plug the hole in the intake manifold and everything should work fine. Think you already might know this but the pressure building up in your head is probably causing the smoke since the oil able to pass through the valve seals.

Hope this helps and hope I'm not repeating something you already know

Eric

diegom6
02-10-2004, 03:22 PM
Originally posted by theo325
I would put a mini K&N filter on the valve cover and on the crankcase, plug the hole in the intake manifold and everything should work fine. Think you already might know this but the pressure building up in your head is probably causing the smoke since the oil able to pass through the valve seals.

Hope this helps and hope I'm not repeating something you already know

Eric

thanks anyway! your help counts, but if I ever put a mini K$N filter in the valve cover for breathing....it will spray the oil in all the engine bay...won't work, I will add again my device that separates the vapor fumes from oil.

fuzion
02-10-2004, 10:18 PM
diegom6:

Are you talking about the springloaded pipe that is on the driver side of the car, just in front and to the left of the power steering resevoir that is situated bwtn the oil pan(or block, just going off memory) and to the intake?

If so, you want me to plug the top part of that pipe, drill, and well a T junction to that pipe and run it to the compressor side of the turbo? Basically bwtn the Air Filter and compressor wheel?

If by reading your post, that is what helps cure the prob, ill get on that during my reading break from school.

As well, i see that you plugged both the TB and Valve Cover vac ports, while i have my TB blocked and my Valve cover going to a oil catch can and then allowing the catch can to vent. I will post a picture when i get a chance.

thx again guys, you guys are a really a huge help!

diegom6
02-10-2004, 10:28 PM
Originally posted by fuzion
diegom6:

Are you talking about the springloaded pipe that is on the driver side of the car, just in front and to the left of the power steering resevoir that is situated bwtn the oil pan(or block, just going off memory) and to the intake?

If so, you want me to plug the top part of that pipe, drill, and well a T junction to that pipe and run it to the compressor side of the turbo? Basically bwtn the Air Filter and compressor wheel?

If by reading your post, that is what helps cure the prob, ill get on that during my reading break from school.

As well, i see that you plugged both the TB and Valve Cover vac ports, while i have my TB blocked and my Valve cover going to a oil catch can and then allowing the catch can to vent. I will post a picture when i get a chance.

thx again guys, you guys are a really a huge help!

Yes , you are correct, it's the springload pipe...if you see carefully in my sig you will notice in the filter pipe is conected or welded a small pipe, that is where the vaccum it's produced to pull the vapor fumes from the springloaded pipe.

But still I have a bit of problem I will see how can I fix it soon.

I tapped at first the TB and was runing the vaccum from the valve cover , but I was getting much oil from, I don't recomend you that way..

fuzion
02-10-2004, 10:58 PM
awesome, well i turns out i already have a port in my filter housing, so ill just screw in a large barb fitting into there and run the line back to the spring pipe.

Can that pipe be removed with out removing the intake?

89325iturbo
02-11-2004, 12:41 AM
I would leave it the way you have it after you pulled the hose off the valve cover. I just have mine open with no catch pan, or breather filter. My car doesn't run bad during idle, and i don't have any oil spray coming out now that theres just an open hole in the valve cover. You said it ran better pulled harder, and didn't smoke so leave it like that then.

diegom6
02-11-2004, 01:10 AM
Originally posted by fuzion
awesome, well i turns out i already have a port in my filter housing, so ill just screw in a large barb fitting into there and run the line back to the spring pipe.

Can that pipe be removed with out removing the intake?

Nope I thin you cannot, try it, maybe can you do it, but I think you will over taking out the intake to do that!

BladeRunner
02-11-2004, 01:44 AM
325e motor with 325i head and the ness. with a turbo should be leathal combination one the problems are solved.

fuzion
02-11-2004, 02:54 AM
that would be a pretty lethal combo....hmm, you guys are giving more evil ideas....Does someone have the necessary links to the info regarding installing a IS head on a E block?

taadow
02-14-2004, 02:39 PM
Originally posted by fuzion
um.....no.

1) the turbocharger is a oil/water cooled turbo. The feed or the pressure is coming off of a "T" in from the Oil pressure sending unit. The return is going to the oil pan via a place on the pan where i had 5/8" drain tube welded on so the oil has a place to return quickly and safely. I could potentially benefit from an oil cooler, but it does not seem to be a necessity.

2) why do i NEED to go the IS head? is there any particular reason, along with the ECM? The 9:1 compression engine pulls just fine and has no actual running issues other than the blowby, which is the problem. Telling me to swap heads and ECM is not helping me solve the prob. With the ETA head and a 3mm thicker head gasket that is available for the engine, compression should drop to around what the IS engines run and i shouldnt have to worry.

3) The injectors are a 19lb bosch injector, identical to the 15lb injectors that i pulled out of the car. The only difference is that of the higher flow rate the so it can feed the engine it needs.

4) standalone fuel management eh? Really since the stock pump is more than enough fuel at 5psi. With a secondary pump, the car was getting too much fuel and it was bogging and back feeding raw fuel into the charge pipes. Fuel is not an issue.

taadow
02-14-2004, 03:48 PM
Ok I not going to tell you everything that I am doing to my 2nd 88 325is but I hope that some of this info will help all of you. 325e 2.7 and the 325i 2.5 what makes one better than the other. 325e 2.7 has a bigger block a little less power than the 2.5 the head on that block was not built for speed but for better fuel econ..thats why its called a 325E but you can still make the car run like a mad man on crack....325i 2.5 is a smaller block the the head was built for speed and the diff in the car also helps out alot ... when you take the head from a 325i and put it on a 325e 2.7 you have a big power jump you have a bigger liter block and a head that was built for more power you have just built your self a 2.7 stroker but you can not use the 325e ecu you need to have the 325i ecu to make the head work like a I head not a E head thats why I said change the ecu....now Im not crazy and I do know what I am talking about one more tip that I did want to give you before but I didnt want to let out all my little tricks you want to change the pistons in the block and the pistons that you want are going to be out of a 83 528e its a domed piston for better pressure not flat like the 325E or I....now I am using oil cooled turbo`s thats why I said to use the oil cooler for the 325i becasue the the oil will go back in to the block safely...and if you want to be smart ass about the info that is being given to you about the standalone fuel management sys if you think 5psi is good...ok with the info that I have just given you and you built a block like what I am donig I guess its ok to get you ass kicked by a honda there are a lot of cars out there that a BMW can out run the shit out of the 325 85-91 is a sleeper and alot of people dont know what you can do to them. you Just can add a turbo to this block and think that you not going to have problems unless you like wasting money if you going to do it do it right the first time..think about the power you want out of the car you just cant use what comes with it...there are other things that you need to do to a 325 2.7 to make you king of the streets...or you can always go out and get a m50 supercharged with a 6 speed tran and a M5 rear end but I dont think your ready for that yet..you still cant fix your oil problem...Im not trying to be a ass hole to you I just want to help you out I have done a lot of leg work putting together my monster and I am still not done yet and I have a few good friends that are helping me out with this and alot of money at that but I will have the only 88 325 with what I have in it... I have only told you just a little of whats going in to my car but soon you will see after I am done I will be the only 88 325 in Denver, Co that is going to be built with what Im doing. So good luck.

theo325
02-17-2004, 02:46 PM
Diegom6, why do you need to create vacuum there. Have you tried drilling the pipe and letting it vent to atmosphere? oh, yeah, you were right about that mini K&N, thank for making me realize how dumb that was...

diegom6
02-17-2004, 03:31 PM
Originally posted by theo325
Diegom6, why do you need to create vacuum there. Have you tried drilling the pipe and letting it vent to atmosphere? oh, yeah, you were right about that mini K&N, thank for making me realize how dumb that was...

if I lett vent it at the atmosphere will wet in oil all my engine bay...but I have to check yet...still see if is comming a bit of oil, since I got a problem with my car right now and is parked...I will test it the next few weeks and willl let ya know

punnzzells
02-18-2004, 06:35 PM
Damm.... I am glad that I have friends who know what they are doing.... Ya, i am paying for it, but thank god for Dave @ Motronix!

I could not deal with the head aches that you's are experiencing... I am doing the " i " head swap and a turbo on my " e/i " motor... the car is in the works and I want to let you guys know that if you search the net, there was a guy who turbo'ed a 528 e and he had a step by step photo instruction page..... unfortunately I can not find the page.... has anyone seen this b4?

Mike.

theo325
02-23-2004, 03:40 PM
Diegom6, i just took my intake manifold off. The pipe going from the intake manifold to the crankcase is only to drain the excess oil in the cylinder head. Intake manifold pressure has no contact with this drain system. Therefore, a breather on the valve cover should do the trick. I know you were saying that oil could come out of the mini K&N filter but if you put a 90 degree piece of hose on the valve cover breather and then put the filter at the other end, the filter will be high enough to prevent from splashing.

Hope this makes sense, Eric

NickP
02-23-2004, 07:11 PM
Why don't you guys just plumb in a one way valve in that line? That way it'll work during vacuum but will close during boost.

theo325
02-24-2004, 04:50 AM
there is no boost going through this pipe. That's what I was saying in my previous post.

fuzion
02-25-2004, 06:37 PM
it must be seeing postive crankcase pressure from that pipe. it make sense.

throttle plate opens, air/fuel mixture is being pushed through at an incredible rate, the majority of the air velocity will meet the TB and get sucked into the intake manifold but there is a quite a possibility that there is a little bit of air getting down to the pan creating postive crankcase pressure and blowing off the valve cover vac line.

A breather filter is not going to help.


diegom6:

have you heard of anyone trying a feed line from the valve cover to the compressor side of the turbo and not running a line from the steel pipe?

There is a good chance that the turbo(under boost) is spinning fast enough to suck up any of the positive pressure that is being created in the crankcase and redistribute it through the turbo and back into the motor?

Its just an idea, but should it work, will save me a good day of messing around. hehe

btw: what side line are you running from the steel pipe to the turbo? i was thinking about going with either a 1/2" - 5/8" line, however that may be a wee bit too big.. your thoughts