thinair
06-12-2003, 02:41 PM
I've been reading about other e36 owners removing their traction control throttle bodies, so I figured I'd remove mine. I have ASC off all the time anyway, it's almost like I got used to turning it off (get in car, turn key, put 1st gear in, turn off asc, disengage the parking brake).
Anyway, removing the throttle body is super easy (took 20 minutes) but you need to get a M roadster intake boot (P/N 13 54 1 703 588, $29), a flat screwdrivers (for the hose clamps) and a 10mm wrench/socket (to remove the TB). I though't I'd need to remove my strut bar, but there was enough clearance, although I did remove my HFM/MAS to give my hands some more room.
I used this site for some pictorial help:
http://home.earthlink.net/~r_tech/cars/firstmods.html
I went for a test drive, and the ASC light now stays on no matter what, but the ABS still works, so I'm happy. I didn't notice any power increase, but I'm pretty sure a dyno will prove otherwise, even if it's only a couple of horses. What I did notice was slightly improved throttle response, there is less of a delay from when you step on the gas to the engine actually accelerating.
For $29, this is a decent mod for those of us who don't winter our cars and are looking for a cheap slight performance increase, plus it's totally reversable.
Also, I have an LSD, so I never really relied on the ASC to brake one of the rear wheels to keep both rear tires spinning.
All I gotta do now is remove that pesky ASC (and airbag) cluster lights.
In the future I am planning to do an M50 manifold swap, get my throttle body bored, and get software. I figured this would eliminate one of the intake bottlenecks.
Anyway, removing the throttle body is super easy (took 20 minutes) but you need to get a M roadster intake boot (P/N 13 54 1 703 588, $29), a flat screwdrivers (for the hose clamps) and a 10mm wrench/socket (to remove the TB). I though't I'd need to remove my strut bar, but there was enough clearance, although I did remove my HFM/MAS to give my hands some more room.
I used this site for some pictorial help:
http://home.earthlink.net/~r_tech/cars/firstmods.html
I went for a test drive, and the ASC light now stays on no matter what, but the ABS still works, so I'm happy. I didn't notice any power increase, but I'm pretty sure a dyno will prove otherwise, even if it's only a couple of horses. What I did notice was slightly improved throttle response, there is less of a delay from when you step on the gas to the engine actually accelerating.
For $29, this is a decent mod for those of us who don't winter our cars and are looking for a cheap slight performance increase, plus it's totally reversable.
Also, I have an LSD, so I never really relied on the ASC to brake one of the rear wheels to keep both rear tires spinning.
All I gotta do now is remove that pesky ASC (and airbag) cluster lights.
In the future I am planning to do an M50 manifold swap, get my throttle body bored, and get software. I figured this would eliminate one of the intake bottlenecks.