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View Full Version : BMW Enginge safety features....?


El Gato Liso
02-28-2012, 12:43 PM
this is more geared toward older bmws, e30/34/36 etc. unless its a universal thing.


anyway

lets say im driving 80 km/h consistently, my engine gets nice and warm and then a red light appears. i let go of the gas and throw it in neutral instead of down shifting....only then, my engine shuts off, and i have to dump the clutch to get it back on because the key cannot turn it back on.

at a traffic light, i have to hold the throttle open a little bit to keep the engine running, otherwise it will shut off.

my engine (m50b25) is pissing oil on the daily, that i have to put at least 5L bottle of oil per week.

is there some form a safety feature that these computers have that will have the engine shut off is something is happening? the stomp test also read out coolant temp sensor...if that has anything to do with that problem.

i dont really care about this m50 no more, it is coming out in the spring fo something bigger, but i still need to drive it for now...



thanks!

-robinho *wave**wave**wave*

T.Dot_E30
02-28-2012, 12:56 PM
Sounds like your engine is running like shit and can't idle properly....
Why don't you fix that first?

5L a week? Damn, do you have a hole in the oil pan?

Your engine hates you, that's it's way of telling you to take better care of it.

cormier
02-28-2012, 12:56 PM
:eek: 5L / week?? all leaking? or burning? if theres oil going through your motor and gumming it all up it may be running rough. Coolant dark?

propr'one
02-28-2012, 12:58 PM
You're 100% sure your vaccum and fuel is right?

Bullet Ride
02-28-2012, 01:35 PM
I don't believe there are any 'safety features' which will shut your engine off. And yeah coolant temp sensor has everything to do with it, it's one of the variables used to determine how much fuel is delivered.

At least 5L per week?!?! After a couple months you'd be able to buy another E30 for the amount of money you've spent on oil lol. Just buy a beater to drive in the meantime while you fix your beater.

BigD
02-28-2012, 01:43 PM
Put the oil drain plug back in and hook up your ICV :P

5style
02-28-2012, 01:51 PM
facepalm. My m50 powered beater with 320k on the clock was acting similar. Here is what you do.

1. VALVECOVER GASKET AND SPARK PLUG GASKETS
2. new spark plugs
3. WASH the MAF with cleaner
4. ICV , wash the sucka
5. Vaccum hoses, replace ALL
6. Intake boot, wash, replace if needed
7. Oil pan gasket
8.In your case, check oil pan for holes....and drain plug washer....
9. O2 sensor

After said and done, if everything else is ok your m50 will magically pur like a kitten, stop drinking oil, and burning it. If this doesn't help, headgasket could be done, along with warped head, and all the other fun stuff like valve guides...

Jon@Bimmersport
02-28-2012, 02:23 PM
facepalm. My m50 powered beater with 320k on the clock was acting similar. Here is what you do.

1. VALVECOVER GASKET AND SPARK PLUG GASKETS
2. new spark plugs
3. WASH the MAF with cleaner
4. ICV , wash the sucka
5. Vaccum hoses, replace ALL
6. Intake boot, wash, replace if needed
7. Oil pan gasket
8.In your case, check oil pan for holes....and drain plug washer....
9. O2 sensor

After said and done, if everything else is ok your m50 will magically pur like a kitten, stop drinking oil, and burning it. If this doesn't help, headgasket could be done, along with warped head, and all the other fun stuff like valve guides...


I think the easier and smarter thing to do, is to CHECK if your vehicle is leaking externally. If it is, where? Secondly if it is not leaking externally, is it puffing smoke (meaning you possibly have a leaking valve cover gasket, bad rings, valve seals or HG - all can be checked in the process of and while doing a leak down test).

Start simple - valuable advice, especially when working outside in the cold.

I would have BBMd you El Gato through that group but have been long gone from the BB world.

bmwm5lover
02-28-2012, 02:58 PM
epic.

El Gato Liso
02-28-2012, 03:56 PM
5L a week? Damn, do you have a hole in the oil pan?

Your engine hates you, that's it's way of telling you to take better care of it.

I use to have a hole, but that has been patched up a dealt with well over a year ago. Meh, I hate it too.

5L / week?? all leaking? or burning? if theres oil going through your motor and gumming it all up it may be running rough. Coolant dark?

im not sure if its or burning, but leaking for sure. the coolant is not dark actually, nice and green. it only leaks when the engine is hot.

You're 100% sure your vaccum and fuel is right?

100% sure, which is why i find this problem weird...:confused:

I don't believe there are any 'safety features' which will shut your engine off. And yeah coolant temp sensor has everything to do with it, it's one of the variables used to determine how much fuel is delivered.

At least 5L per week?!?! After a couple months you'd be able to buy another E30 for the amount of money you've spent on oil lol. Just buy a beater to drive in the meantime while you fix your beater.

perhaps that is a start then, replacing that sensor. no kidding huh :p im buying the cheapest oil 18$ per jug. you've seen my driveway, but this time its littered with cars...absolutely NO room for another one lol

Put the oil drain plug back in and hook up your ICV

...o m g. the effin plug wasnt in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol :p ICV IS THOUGH O_O

1. VALVECOVER GASKET AND SPARK PLUG GASKETS
2. new spark plugs
3. WASH the MAF with cleaner
4. ICV , wash the sucka
5. Vaccum hoses, replace ALL
6. Intake boot, wash, replace if needed
7. Oil pan gasket
8.In your case, check oil pan for holes....and drain plug washer....
9. O2 sensor

i did all that jazz before i did the swap. i even did the oil pan gasket twice! after my oil pan exploded and after i did the front end suspension.

I think the easier and smarter thing to do, is to CHECK if your vehicle is leaking externally. If it is, where? Secondly if it is not leaking externally, is it puffing smoke (meaning you possibly have a leaking valve cover gasket, bad rings, valve seals or HG - all can be checked in the process of and while doing a leak down test).

Start simple - valuable advice, especially when working outside in the cold.

I would have BBMd you El Gato through that group but have been long gone from the BB world.

it is leaking on the outside, where the head and block attach, and drips onto the exhaust manifold. when i look at the spark plugs, there is always smoke coming from the third plug, from the rear of the engine.

ive done a compression test, got similar #s across the board, so its hard to tell if its a HG issue. it probably is...

im not in the group anymore...my bb can't handle the recent bbm update :p



i got this engine at an unknown mileage. the fact that it had everything i needed for an e30 swap for a cheap cheap price lead to me taking a risk. the engine has been awesome, made it through an few auto X. i just think my driving style and its age are now starting to show. its probably near 300k kms

im still puzzled how the F this engine passed emissions legit.

InfiniteDice
02-28-2012, 04:21 PM
O2 sensor pull the plug... Do it now. :)

I had the exact same problem, the o2 sensor is over-fueling the engine by misreporting the Air/Fuel ratio.

Bullet Ride
02-28-2012, 04:44 PM
the engine has been awesome, made it through an few auto X. i just think my driving style and its age are now starting to show. its probably near 300k kms

You should have kept your M20 it would have saved you all these headaches and it would still be running properly :P

Look at John's car he beats the sh*t out of it... he uses it as his work vehicle, uses it to tow around the club trailer, does full seasons of auto-x and driving schools with it and the only reason his motor is toast is because he neglected to change his T-belt and it broke on him.

FYI my car is almost at 330K and the motor is still going strong *th-up*

SamE30e
02-28-2012, 07:09 PM
You should have kept your M20 it would have saved you all these headaches and it would still be running properly :P

Look at John's car he beats the sh*t out of it... he uses it as his work vehicle, uses it to tow around the club trailer, does full seasons of auto-x and driving schools with it and the only reason his motor is toast is because he neglected to change his T-belt and it broke on him.

FYI my car is almost at 330K and the motor is still going strong *th-up*



Theres a difference between a running engine and a well running engine.

I do admit, M20's can go for long.. But my escort engine has 300k on it, and it runs... Not well, but runs.

I'm speaking in terms of being efficient and making a good amount, if not the same power levels as it would stock.

Bullet Ride
02-28-2012, 09:16 PM
Theres a difference between a running engine and a well running engine.

I do admit, M20's can go for long.. But my escort engine has 300k on it, and it runs... Not well, but runs.

I'm speaking in terms of being efficient and making a good amount, if not the same power levels as it would stock.

I'm not sure what you're trying to get at here? Engines are going to get tired as they get old, unless they are meticulously maintained, (and even if they are) it's pretty much inevitable. I've never had the pleasure of being able to drive a stock low mileage E30 or an E30 with a freshly rebuilt motor so I don't have a bench mark to compare my car to. That being said, I still get pretty good fuel economy out of my car and the motor itself still feels strong. Is it down on power? Almost definitely, but it will still boogie. I'd imagine it's somewhere in the 135-140whp range.

Blackedout95
02-28-2012, 11:54 PM
epic.

Yep. you'd almost think he joined last week.

SiR
02-29-2012, 01:01 AM
wtf is going on in here?

propr'one
02-29-2012, 01:11 AM
Yep. you'd almost think he joined last week.

Robin has been an active contributor of this community for a while. We've all had frustrations with our cars, and looked to max for help. I dont see any problem with this thread. (except for one busted-ass m50).

Eurostyle
02-29-2012, 01:20 AM
Its not a safety feature, your engine is attempting suicide!!! It just wants out!
If you were bleeding 5 liters of blood every week, you would feel its pain! fcplm

Blackedout95
02-29-2012, 02:01 AM
Robin has been an active contributor of this community for a while. We've all had frustrations with our cars, and looked to max for help. I dont see any problem with this thread. (except for one busted-ass m50).

I know, just seems to me if youve been here 5 years and know bmw's, haven't attempted basic maint. and haven't bothered to go get it checked out after dumping 5L a week of oil in it while it attempts suicide as mentioned, well.....

Asking us about a shut off for safety, I believe it, saftey from him lol

I kid I kid ;) all the best to him.

InfiniteDice
02-29-2012, 10:27 AM
The important first step is... if you're not sure, ask! So I think he's doing the right thing there. I myself would have changed all the essentials before dropping it in.

If it's leaking someplace internally it probably screwed the O2 sensor as I mentioned before. I'd start there. Pull the plugs and look for symptoms of running rich.

T.Dot_E30
02-29-2012, 10:36 AM
I think the problem people have with rob is that he seems to have alot of problems with his car, and most of them stem from cheaping out, doing hack jobs then he runs into problems soon after...

I'm a strong believer of doing things once and doing it right the first time.

It also doesn't help that his threads are usually overly dramatic....
A simple thread like, "My car leaks 5L of oil a week and doesn't idle properly" he'd get a better reaction from people.

Then the answer to him would be pretty simple, fix the idle problems and fix the oil leak....

bmwm5lover
02-29-2012, 10:46 AM
I think the problem people have with rob is that he seems to have alot of problems with his car, and most of them stem from cheaping out, doing hack jobs then he runs into problems soon after...

I'm a strong believer of doing things once and doing it right the first time.

It also doesn't help that his threads are usually overly dramatic....
A simple thread like, "My car leaks 5L of oil a week and doesn't idle properly" he'd get a better reaction from people.

Then the answer to him would be pretty simple, fix the idle problems and fix the oil leak....

So diplomatic Trev. Well Done.

The real problem is that he is a complete tool.

Bullet Ride
02-29-2012, 11:38 AM
A simple thread like, "My car leaks 5L of oil a week and doesn't idle properly" he'd get a better reaction from people.


I think that thread would garner the same amount of ROFLs because how can you not laugh when you read "My car leaks 5L of oil a week..."

I'm still laughing because it's sounds so ridiculous that I can't imagine it being true :D

El Gato Liso
02-29-2012, 01:09 PM
The important first step is... if you're not sure, ask! So I think he's doing the right thing there. I myself would have changed all the essentials before dropping it in.

If it's leaking someplace internally it probably screwed the O2 sensor as I mentioned before. I'd start there. Pull the plugs and look for symptoms of running rich.

Thanks. I was unsure if there is some feature that stalls the engine deliberately, seeing as BMW provides rather advanced electronics. SO I ASKED! :)

I actually put a brand new O2 sensor in back in October. The only rich running I had was when I forgot to plug in a vacuum line from the intake manifold to the ICV...which was resolved a bit ago. Plugs were brand spanking new and installed before the swap was done.

I think the problem people have with rob is that he seems to have alot of problems with his car, and most of them stem from cheaping out, doing hack jobs then he runs into problems soon after...

I'm a strong believer of doing things once and doing it right the first time.

It also doesn't help that his threads are usually overly dramatic....
A simple thread like, "My car leaks 5L of oil a week and doesn't idle properly" he'd get a better reaction from people.

Then the answer to him would be pretty simple, fix the idle problems and fix the oil leak....

That's a bold statement, to say "people". As usual, I'd say speak for yourself. Cheaping out, as claimed by you, cannot be a reason for oil to start leaking from where the head and block meet. I've actually replaced a lot of parts in my car, over the years of owning it. A lot is not even an understatement. A friend of mine who is a regular on this forum who I will not name, well known amongst a lot of maX users did a rather massive forced setup on his car. Had the engine all machined, lots of aftermarket parts, brand new head casket, seals, proper tuning...but very very little km's put on a well built turbo setup and his head gasket was damaged and had to be replaced. Oh, it must be because he cheaped out based on your *clearly and undoubtedly* flawless logic. That was sarcasm by the way.

What is this about? I described the my situation, what happens...how it happens...to find out why it happens. If there is a problem, PM me I will give you my cell number and we can talk :)

So diplomatic Trev. Well Done.

The real problem is that he is a complete tool.

I completely agree...but enlighten me, please. Spare me and tell me what a tool is and how your behaviour here doesn't warrant you as one yourself.

On a side note, I am pretty sure you had me blocked so you cannot see my posts...guess I was wrong, huh? You just can't get enough of me it seems. I will be more than happy to give you the opportunity to say that to my face one time at a meet or cruise, or whatever it may be, but I would rather not for your own sake. But quite frankly, I've already made my judgement about you. You don't like me, that is fine. I'm actually flattered...that people just as yourself really try to stir up a reaction from a *may be biased to you* great person I am. So do me a favour, please. I beg you, **** OFF. Thanks.

I think that thread would garner the same amount of ROFLs because how can you not laugh when you read "My car leaks 5L of oil a week..."

I'm still laughing because it's sounds so ridiculous that I can't imagine it being true

hey even i laugh at the amount of times i gotta do oil fill ups lol...if you saw my drive way and extracted the oil saturated in it, you can do many oil changes to your e30 lol. come over man, I will show you the empty jugs and oil patches all over my drive way, and all the oil patches at my work's parking lot. oh yea, and all the burning oil that caked the rear end of my e30...talk about a "cheaping out" rust proofing!








People. I am more than dead serious about this thread. I try, you know, to add some humor and not have a stick up my ass every post I make. I only post threads on this damn website when I am in a bind...and no, it isn't about who I know and who I don't know. I met a lot of people here, and 100% of them have been awesome...just as they present themselves on this forum. Thanks and I appreciate the opportunity to share my BMW experience with y'all over the coming 5th year in this community. To the haters...keep on hating but get off my dick!




...see what happens when you have to deal with people you don't know that are ****ing stupid! MAKES YOU GO OFF TOPIC ALL THE DAMN TIME FROM THE ORIGINAL TOPIC OF A POST. Mother ****. Totally not what I wanted...

T.Dot_E30
02-29-2012, 01:35 PM
Cheaping out, as claimed by you, cannot be a reason for oil to start leaking from where the head and block meet.


Yes but a hack job of a swap that can't run properly will cause shit to go wrong with the motor including causing the headgasket to go. It's all about how you maintain it.


Oh, it must be because he cheaped out based on your *clearly and undoubtedly* flawless logic. That was sarcasm by the way.


A turbo build blowing a head gasket is nothing new, and it probably was because he cheaped out. He either didn't have it tuned properly and caused alot of denotation or ran more psi than the motor was built for. or maybe he didn't use proper head gasket and head bolts...so yes even though he spent alot of money and changed alot of parts, he cheaped out and didn't do things 'right'

Cheaping out / hack job, call it what you want. Crying foul and paying innocent isn't going to fix your problem. Learn from it and don't screw up your next motor *wave*

5style
02-29-2012, 01:57 PM
I am going to reformulate my post because this is starting to become annoying.

We are not here to be analytically critical of each other's wrong doings and downfalls. It does not matter to me if Robin is a tool or not, I don't even know him, what matters is the subject question at hand in the thread.

I think some people here need to get off their high horses, drop the supremacist snobbery and simply not post if they have nothing positive to contribute.

We are suppose to be a community and to help each other out when we can, yet it seems to me that maxbimmer has become the place to call people's financials out and to induce dominatiory behaviour when said individuals are simply just not impressed with the members enforcing their "superior knowledge", which the majority of the time is a front, one that is easy to see through.

This alone makes bimmerforums a much better community because no matter how stupid the question, people respond with knowledge and culture, genuinely wanting to help, even if it has been asked a million times already. Some of those new or "stupid" members never return, some learn and become great contributors.

A lot of good members left maxbimmer, due to the constant dominatory drama. Not everyone is you, not everyone meets or has your financial goals and resources,and frankly, discussion with respect leads to great things.

Drop the sarcasm and name calling and lets tie this community back together like it used to be in the early years. Be helpful or simply, say nothing at all.

Now, back ON topic:

Robin , did you torque the head on correctly? If yes, I suggest compression test first, pull the head next, check it against the warp tool, and if its ok and there are no cracks, replace the gasket.

T.Dot_E30
02-29-2012, 02:48 PM
I think some people here need to get off their high horses, drop the supremacist snobbery and simply not post if they have nothing positive to contribute.

Now, back ON topic:


Ok I'm off, now what.
I may be blunt, but the truth hurts.

About being on topic, the topic was if there was a safety feature that is shutting off his engine. That has been answered, everyone turned to the real problem which is his poorly running engine.

SiR
02-29-2012, 05:38 PM
advanced electronics? fcplm

challenges to say things in person

ugh

and you folks talk smack about other forums... people in glass houses....

Ryezee36
02-29-2012, 05:56 PM
woah, this is what i come back to max to see... not impressed.

cormier
02-29-2012, 09:49 PM
Soooo.... Back o/t --

Look for leaks
Check your coolant color
Check all vacuum tubing / replace
Check/clean icv + hoses
Check/clean intake components
Check/clean injectors, plugs, wires
Etc... Probably lots more tune up items too

egye30
03-01-2012, 04:25 AM
Yeah no shit guys.. since when do max guys act like r3v guys, its not wrong to ask when you're clueless about something.. But like you guys said BACK ON TOPIC..

Rob, when you did the oil pan gasket what did you use?? just the good old OEM gasket? or even just a nice "fancy brand" ones? Because according to my research about the e30 DOHC swap TONSS of people have had oil leaking problems because of the gaskets failing on them or the gasket not being installed properly, and I'm talking all kinds of motors of this swap M50nvs, M52s, S52s etc.. Not saying you didnt, but you basically gotta lick the surface where the gasket goes clean.. and even after doing that some people still got oil leaks..guess what helped them seal the pan properly.. YUP good old RTV sealant in combination of the gasket. (Cormier I'd recommend this for your swap as well bro) and Voila apparently no leaks or problems reported after that..

But to be honest with you, if you're going to spend time and money taking apart your motor to fix it, just shop for a good used m52 or an s5* motor, rip the stupid m50 out and throw in the good motor after you change all the seals, gaskets, pumps and belts.. It'll be easy enough for you since you've got the pan, wiring, booster and the whole shabang already set up and it will give you a chance to start over and retrace your steps so that you can avoid mishaps in the future.. its called gaining experience and learning from previous mistakes.. we weren't all born with our knowledge about BMWs/cars in general like people make it sound. We all had to learn somehow, whether its from ourselves or from others.

Oh, and i know you'll probably think.. naah I can't afford a motor right now gotta just run this one, but at this point it seems like your cheapest bet to just find a motor. cuz $$ and time constantly spent on fixing the m50 + oil is just a waste, could be money your spending on a new motor + nice new parts for it :P and not only will your car love you and run like an absolute G.. but you'll also be stunting on the haters when you've got a good running motor in her, know what im sayinn broo ;)

El Gato Liso
03-01-2012, 10:52 AM
Yeah no shit guys.. since when do max guys act like r3v guys, its not wrong to ask when you're clueless about something.. But like you guys said BACK ON TOPIC..

Rob, when you did the oil pan gasket what did you use?? just the good old OEM gasket? or even just a nice "fancy brand" ones? Because according to my research about the e30 DOHC swap TONSS of people have had oil leaking problems because of the gaskets failing on them or the gasket not being installed properly, and I'm talking all kinds of motors of this swap M50nvs, M52s, S52s etc.. Not saying you didnt, but you basically gotta lick the surface where the gasket goes clean.. and even after doing that some people still got oil leaks..guess what helped them seal the pan properly.. YUP good old RTV sealant in combination of the gasket. (Cormier I'd recommend this for your swap as well bro) and Voila apparently no leaks or problems reported after that..

But to be honest with you, if you're going to spend time and money taking apart your motor to fix it, just shop for a good used m52 or an s5* motor, rip the stupid m50 out and throw in the good motor after you change all the seals, gaskets, pumps and belts.. It'll be easy enough for you since you've got the pan, wiring, booster and the whole shabang already set up and it will give you a chance to start over and retrace your steps so that you can avoid mishaps in the future.. its called gaining experience and learning from previous mistakes.. we weren't all born with our knowledge about BMWs/cars in general like people make it sound. We all had to learn somehow, whether its from ourselves or from others.

Oh, and i know you'll probably think.. naah I can't afford a motor right now gotta just run this one, but at this point it seems like your cheapest bet to just find a motor. cuz $$ and time constantly spent on fixing the m50 + oil is just a waste, could be money your spending on a new motor + nice new parts for it :P and not only will your car love you and run like an absolute G.. but you'll also be stunting on the haters when you've got a good running motor in her, know what im sayinn broo ;)

yoyo
new engine is the end all solution, which i will be doing this spring with an m52 instead. i can buy one right now...reason why i havent is because i literally do not have the time for it! i work 5 days a week, and go to school...weekend comes for homework and chilling out...so really, the best i can do is keep this m50 going til school is out!

...and no. i aint paying no mechanic to do what I can.

i used the victor reinz gasket, but even after making the contact surface on the block squeaky clean...i caked it with permatex *gasket sealer* then put the gasket over it, and covered it with permatex then put the pan on. the only oil pan leak i've had was cracking it open!

the swap was done almost 2 years ago, and was more than fine. It def wasn't no "hack job" as some would think...these probs just recently started happening. ye boyyyy i know what you're saying. driving fresh to death.



Brian, ill just write that stuff down and make a checklist, i'll find time for it this weekend. thanks bud...and yes, take note on the oil pan gasket for the 24v'er

cormier
03-01-2012, 04:58 PM
Sealant on oil pan and head were done at the machine shop -- would you guy recommend on valve cover gasket too? Rtv is best? I have some permatex stuff lying around too

InfiniteDice
03-02-2012, 12:26 PM
I wouldn't suggest sealant on the headgasket. On my oil pan gasket I did use some black high temp stuff. You need to apply it correctly or it will leak horribly. You need to run a bead all the way around, then sit the joining part on top and tighten all the fastening bolts/nuts to HAND TIGHT only. Then let it sit for an hour or whatever it says on the product. IF you wrench tighten it right away then it will all squeeze out and be useless.

Cleaning the stuff out of the parts later can be a pain in the ass. The one that I use it on all the time is the water pump gasket. It also helps keep the gasket in place while you fiddle with fitting the pump.

cormier
03-02-2012, 03:20 PM
You're right head gasket was a brain fart. Oil filter housing? Coolant flange on back of the head? I'm worried about that one because it's just a stupid paper gasket

El Gato Liso
03-02-2012, 04:28 PM
the valve cover gasket...you dont need any seal gunk on it. if anything at the rear of the engine, where the 2 semi circles are. i never used any gunk for mine.

the coolant flange at the back is ok...and after rereading that, yes...put some seal gunk on it. it will be a bitch to work on if shit hits the fan, always having to take off the intake manifold...spare yourself that headache!