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The Twin
08-29-2011, 01:15 PM
is this right?

-Jack up rear of car. no ebrake on, not in gear.
-remove wheels
-place hydrolic jack under diff
-remove diff bolts
-easy jack/diff down by about 2"

this should allow enough clearance to get my trailarms to drop enough so the oem springs will pop out?

El Gato Liso
08-29-2011, 01:19 PM
just take off the shock from the trailing arm, it will drop that much more.

The Twin
08-29-2011, 01:22 PM
ideally I don't want to remove the shock from the T/A's.
after the $hitshow I had with my fronts and wrecking my BJ's and all...

daveed
08-29-2011, 01:25 PM
ideally I don't want to remove the shock from the T/A's.
after the $hitshow I had with my fronts and wrecking my BJ's and all...

the rear shock just bolts to the rear trailing arm, it's not a mcpherson strut setup like the front... definitely remove it to get the spring out

El Gato Liso
08-29-2011, 01:25 PM
theres 1 big 17mm (or 19) bolt holding the shock to the trailing arm. just take it out...its easier than your list.

The Twin
08-29-2011, 01:27 PM
bitchin.

so no need to mess around with my diff?

thanks guys.

daveed
08-29-2011, 01:32 PM
bitchin.

so no need to mess around with my diff?

thanks guys.

you still need to drop the diff but it isn't difficult

I used this diy:
http://www.e30tech.com/articles/suspension/rear/

only thing i would add (if you are removing the stock springs) is that even when you drop and disconnect everything the spring may still be compressed a bit, so you will think that you are doing something wrong, i used a prying-end of a normal hammer to just gently pry it off

Bullet Ride
08-29-2011, 01:38 PM
Or just buy a simple spring compressor and you don't have to do any of that. I'm not sure how you managed to do the fronts without a compressor unless you let your top mount shoot across the garage...

Roysneon
08-29-2011, 01:49 PM
I'm not sure how you managed to do the fronts without a compressor unless you let your top mount shoot across the garage...

Haha I remember doing that. Then I rented spring compressors for the other side, then I bought some *th-up*

Yes, try simply removing the shock bolt from the trailing arm, it's always worked out OK for me, but I've seen at least one car that we simply could not get the trailing arms to drop down enough for the spring to slip out. If you're putting aftermarket springs in however, you will have no problem taking them off again.

The Twin
08-29-2011, 08:46 PM
Got shock bolt removed from trail arm.
Worked so well, that infact sheared the bolt off into the shock mount. Ffs.

Gonna grab a bit extractor tomorrow and pray.

I really don't want to go replacing a whole rear trailing arm...

InfiniteDice
08-29-2011, 09:41 PM
How the hell can you snap that bolt?

Everyone seems to forget the sway bar link, take that off and the spring will just fall out.

North
08-29-2011, 10:05 PM
I still had to compress the spring a lot to get the OEM sport one out after disconnecting the shock and sway bar link... not sure how it could just "fall out"

InfiniteDice
08-29-2011, 10:56 PM
Sometimes the spring gets stuck top to bottom on the rubber pads. I just remove the shock bolt, then undo the sway link and then put my foot down on the control arm and it will go all the way.

Also check that your parking brake is not on, this may cause issues.

everlast
08-30-2011, 09:19 AM
Edit... I see, you sheared one of the shock mount bolts. Damn, bad luck dude!

Edit edit: no wait.. you did shear the 19mm bolt??

T.Dot_E30
08-30-2011, 09:23 AM
I guess im a bit late, but i didn't see you mention jack stands, also you should have had the jack support the shock/TA before removing the bolt.

There is no reason to touch anything related to the diff, that's just stupid. I've done several cars and never had to.

Bullet Ride
08-30-2011, 09:29 AM
How the hell can you snap that bolt?

x2 ?

daveed
08-30-2011, 11:38 AM
There is no reason to touch anything related to the diff, that's just stupid. I've done several cars and never had to.

I believe it is to lower the rear end as much as possible as to put the least "pressure" on the axles/cvs.

The Twin
08-30-2011, 01:11 PM
yep, sheared the 19mm bolt.(not the head, but about 1/4") the bit that goes into the T/A.

I'm going to get an extractor bit kit tonight and try my luck with that, otherwise i'll need to shop around for a use left rear trail arm.

I snapped it by NOT putting a jack or stand under the whole assembly, and when I was removing it it just fell, thus snapping the bolt.

it was pretty seized to, so I imagine the stuck part is going to be a PITA to try to get out too..

we'll see...everything is fixable.

bad luck wrenching on this E30...my 86 was so much friendlier lol

The Twin
08-30-2011, 01:13 PM
I believe it is to lower the rear end as much as possible as to put the least "pressure" on the axles/cvs.


thats what I read...I wouldn't want to tackle this on our canadian cars...those bolts would be in there pretty good, plus to line it up afterwards would be nightmarish.

The Twin
08-30-2011, 01:33 PM
http://i56.tinypic.com/2mm6dle.jpg

gonna heat up the eff out of it with a torch and extractor it.

InfiniteDice
08-30-2011, 03:23 PM
The only way this could happen is if you have side force on the bolt while you were removing it. I've never ever seen a bolt that size break.

I'd say heat the surrounding metal of the trailing arm up, then slowly try to turn it out. You might have to carefully drill a small pilot hole in the middle, then slowly enlarge the hole. Just don't damage the threads.

daveed
08-30-2011, 05:44 PM
It doesn't surprise me that you snapped a bolt on an east coast car. I dropped the front section of my exhaust using hand wrenches and unbolted my differential without any issues... you Ontario e30 guys are seriously bad ass.

everlast
08-30-2011, 06:18 PM
you Ontario e30 guys are seriously bad ass.

This part is definitely true. *th-up* But, I've dropped many of these and never came close to snapping it. It must have been rust-seized in place. In which case no amount of placement would have prevented this.

The Twin
08-30-2011, 10:55 PM
It was rust seized. No chance of it coming out even after heat and bit extractor.

Got my hands on a set of used trail arms.

Huge thanks to Denny from the board for helping me out when I was in a bind. Nice meeting u, and trully that black e30 is simply badass. Completely done right.

Cheers
Ryan

InfiniteDice
08-30-2011, 11:25 PM
Now you'll have the fun job of cutting the parking brake cables because they are rusted into the trailing arms.

Oh, and you have two roads to choose from for the trailing arm swap. You can pull the arms separate, you may need to grind a box end wrench so it's skinny enough to fit between the body of the car and the outer trailing arm bushing bolt. Let's say this is not too fun.

Or... You can drop the whole subframe and change the subframe bushings while you're at it. That's a fun job too.

Keep us updated! :)

everlast
08-30-2011, 11:51 PM
Shit, that's right. That sucks.

The Twin
08-31-2011, 06:32 AM
I've allready dealt with the e-brake cable months ago, so it shouldn't be too much of a headache.

And by dealt I mean eliminated
As in I have no left side e-brake.

Denny
08-31-2011, 08:50 AM
It was rust seized. No chance of it coming out even after heat and bit extractor.

Got my hands on a set of used trail arms.

Huge thanks to Denny from the board for helping me out when I was in a bind. Nice meeting u, and trully that black e30 is simply badass. Completely done right.

Cheers
Ryan

Yeap Rusted bolts...:mad: my restoration would of been so much faster if it wasnt for things like this.

Now patience is your only friend, start by using a center punch mark the middle of the bolt then with a very small drill bit drill the center of the bolt, keep going up in size, soak it with Fluid film hit the sides with a hammer let it sit all night then next day use a socket(Big thick phillips head) bang it in as deep as you can in the drilled hole then very very slowly turn with the wratchet if it doesnt move at all more fluid film then hit with a hammer on the metal around the bolt fluid needs to get in that thread... yeah major Pita but you will succeed.


Back end of an E30 needs lots of work I decided to take the whole subframe and dealt with things off the car (expect damn e-brakes but I managed to change both after 2-3 days work of drilling and pulling and a lot of cursing!!*uzi*) kind of job you do once and try to forget*drink* so in with Poweflex bushings everywhere

Nice meeting you too Ryan...good luck my friend.

everlast
08-31-2011, 09:00 AM
Twin, I have a large coffee can of old ebrake parts. You're welcome to scavenge through it if you want.

lost
08-31-2011, 10:23 AM
I had a simlar situation happen on my 77 mini. All I did was drill it out tap it, put a stud in then seam weld it on and then used a nut and washer rather than a bolt. Of course if you want to remove the shocks in the future you have undo them from the top first in-order to slide the bottom onto the stud.

Anyways sounds like you have things under control.

DR.ZED
08-31-2011, 06:23 PM
Man I hope the half shaft doesn't give you fits.

... what I had to do to get mine out was the most car abuse I've ever put an automobile through.

Let me know if you get to that same place.

Axxe
09-01-2011, 01:17 AM
That e30 just doesn't like you.

The Twin
09-01-2011, 08:11 AM
Man I hope the half shaft doesn't give you fits.

... what I had to do to get mine out was the most car abuse I've ever put an automobile through.

Let me know if you get to that same place.

I'm going to go a different route now.

I'm going to timesert or helicoil a new threading within the area where the bolt will get "extracted"...as in chisselled away.

most likely a timesert as it's a more solid fix.

my rear trailarm is in fine condition as are the bushing...it'd be a shame to have to tear everything apart to replace it, and have to do the other side aswell..so screw that noise.

if the timesert doesn't work out, i'll be waiting untill the 18th to head to a friends shop (with a lift) and likely just remove the subframe and attack it.*uzi*

I've read the BS about trying to battle with the halfshaft, and it's not something I really want to get into*thmbsdwn*

The Twin
09-01-2011, 08:13 AM
That e30 just doesn't like you.


man, tell me about it.

my wife LOVES this car.
she loves the fact it's so clean and in great shape for 21 years old, loves driving it, and even loves the looks (even tho she calls is cute:mad:)

she can't understand why i've been "molesting" it since I got it and claims that it's no wonder it doesn't like me.


she's gonna LEARN TO LOVE ME!:D

everlast
09-01-2011, 08:25 AM
If its any consolation, I just changed a shaft in mine and the puller I got to press the shaft out didn't fit. I casually tapped it with a hammer while lining up the hammer, and it fell out. :) Maybe that will happen to you!

The car will start loving you back once you've replaced all its boo-boos and its no longer in pain.

InfiniteDice
09-01-2011, 09:07 AM
That's one thing I've never had issues with, the shafts.

The only thing I hate is having to rotate the diff to get all the bolts off the diff side. For the splined end I just insert this nice rod of aircraft aluminum that I have and hit it with a big hammer, slides right out.

karmatose
09-01-2011, 10:53 AM
she loves the fact it's so clean and in great shape for 21 years old, loves driving it, and even loves the looks (even tho she calls is cute:mad:)


Hah.. My sister called my e30 "cute" too the first time she saw it. Bad ass was the reaction I was going for, but I guess cute is better than hideous.