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View Full Version : 325 v.s. 318


jedeye
07-31-2011, 04:43 PM
so i'm just wondering what are the differences between a '90-'91 325 and 318 in terms of power, drive, maintenance, etc ...

BMe30
07-31-2011, 08:47 PM
318 is more fun.... High rev... Peppy... But really what are your intentions with the car? Track, autox, power, show, motor swap?

noodles101
07-31-2011, 09:14 PM
E30 318 is alot of fun , high reving engine and lots of power after 3k rpm , plus its a 4 banger so its super light so u can toss ur car into any twisty roads even with stock suspension , it wil handle.

jedeye
07-31-2011, 09:38 PM
solid input so far. i guess what i'm looking to do is make something with a lot of power that'll dominate corners and slide around if needed :P

noodles101
07-31-2011, 09:44 PM
any bmws can bang corners .. but being an E30 and old car, you wont find one with MINT suspension so you will probably need to change them up . their life time suspension isnt really life time... lol

jedeye
07-31-2011, 10:25 PM
understandable, suspension is definitely on the to-do list. so in terms of power it's not a shy little girl? ..i haven't driven one yet soo i wouldn't know.

how about maintenance, problems, etc... ?

BMe30
07-31-2011, 10:42 PM
Imo... Learn the car first... Then Upgrade suspension... Brakes... Wheels tires... Then add power. Either boost the m20 or swap m50 in.

craz azn
07-31-2011, 11:07 PM
Imo... Learn the car first... Then Upgrade suspension... Brakes... Wheels tires... Then add power. Either boost the m20 or swap m50 in.

+1, which makes this entire thread irrelevant, because it doesn't matter what car you start with as a base... it will just be the same thing in the end. Just find a solid car and go at it.

Vrbovsky
07-31-2011, 11:53 PM
it matters more to find a clean example of an e30 rather than what engine it has. if you are ready to buy then you'll have very very few clean e30s to choose from so 318/325/i/is means nothing.

lvan
08-01-2011, 01:15 AM
^ Right on. We could talk about engine choices if we were back in the early 1990s. Too bad we are not. Clean car first, and than see what you get.

Eurostyle
08-01-2011, 02:35 AM
+1 on the "clean car" choice first! Find a rust free one and go from there...

Other then that, High torque>High Rpm any day IMO...

To have a reliable M42 318 you need to deal with the timing chaine, not a cheap job if done at a good shop. If neglected, engine can do go at anytime after 200K. A 325 is somewhat cheaper to keep reliable...

njansenv
08-01-2011, 09:33 AM
318 is more fun.... High rev... Peppy... But really what are your intentions with the car? Track, autox, power, show, motor swap?

Lol. I'd wouldn't call either more fun than the other.
I'll take the M20, myself. Torque, great sounding I6.
But the others are right: find the cleanest one you can. It's a LOT easier to swap down the road than it is to fix a rustly, neglected example.

InfiniteDice
08-01-2011, 09:38 AM
I'd go with the 325i.

Secondly I'd rather have a nice 'e' with leather and no filler or rust than an 318i (for everyday driving). An es if possible.

jedeye
08-01-2011, 12:45 PM
How dangerous is it to get a 'painted' car? My friend swears that it's a terrible awful stupid idea because painted cars are usually covering up stuff... thoughts?

Vrbovsky
08-01-2011, 02:56 PM
buying a painted car is not dangerous at all. but make sure the job was done right. ask for pre, during and post pictures. failing that take a magnet to check for filler. most minty e30s have been painted. I did a tiny thread about my cars body rebuild, so from now on if I sell my car the buyer knows exactly what was done and how!

don't buy a car from a dirt bag used car salesman buy from a bmw enthusiast on this forum chances are you'll do ok.

but you'll have to be patient.

InfiniteDice
08-01-2011, 06:28 PM
Take a magnet in soft fabric. Look for overspray on trim and rubber seals. Especially in the Toronto area, a lot of guys buy cheap, do crap bodywork and sell with a 2-3k markup for fast cash.

Be careful.