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View Full Version : CEL Codes... Please help


iverson03tj
07-28-2010, 11:31 AM
:(:(:( I just noticed... I am such an idiot, but when i bought my car there wasnt a CEL light so i was like oh ok i guess its fine.... but i realized that there must be something wrong since the guy deleted the o2 sensor's and cat...... i been getting these CEL lights please tell me what they mean!!!!! The PO probably took the bulb off... since the CEL light doesnt come on at all....

GRRRRR stupid people..... i would have still bought it if he told em the truth..... :mad: *punching the wall and head buting the desk*


If you got any of these codes let me know...
i already spend 2400 bucks on just parts and now a few more problems... also the misfire code... which one is cylinder #3 i hope its only a spark plug..... GRRRRRRR *uzi**uzi*:(
Engine Codes
P0161- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Whats the heater circuit....
P0303
P0446
P1145
P1189
P1250

Ok Guys here is an update!!!

Engine Codes
P0161- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit

P0303 misfire cyl#3

P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
Charcoal Canister aka Carbon Collector Canister / Evaporator Valve
DIY :
1. Remove your spare tire.
2. You will now see an oval shaped black plastic covering with a threaded rod coming out of the middle.
3. Remove the nut and washer.
4. On the right hand side of the oval plastic piece you will see a flat covering that is molded to the oval piece. There is a plastic nut holding the end of this down. Remove that nut.
5. Pull the plastic piece straight up and out.
6. You will now see the charcoal canister with 3 lines going into it from the right hand side of the car (passenger side).
7. The two thinner lines (same size) have metal hose clamps on them.
8. They are snug, but with a screwdriver (flat) you can gently work the hoses off without removing the clamps.
9. Next, remove the thicker hose. (it just pulls off, wiggling side to side helps)
10. During the hose removal you may want to have a friend hold up the canister. It is not secured to the car and can slide up the threaded rod.
11. Once your lines are off, remove the canister by lifting straight up.
12. Installation is opposite of removal.
NOTE: There may be gas vapor in these lines when disconnected!
THUS: Turn off all your stereo equipment if you have any in your trunk...and for god sakes man don't smoke!
Lastly, you will not clear your Check Engine light right away. It will take a day or so of starts for the system to recognize the problem has been resolved. PM me if you have any questions! Good luck!

P1145 Solenoid Valve Running Losses Control Circuit Electrical
Could be charcoal canister solenoid or
3/2 -way valve
http://jackassofalltrades.com/ticker.html

You might have left it disconnected or it is failed. It might be two things, check to see if they are plugged in correctly. I think the second set of pictures at the fuel pressure regulator the electrical unit shown is the running losses solenoid. I would check that first.
13 90 500 Replacing tank vent valve (M50,S50US,M52,S52)
Interrogate fault memory of DME control unit. Switch off ignition. Removing intake filter housing, refer to 13 71 000
Disconnect plug connection (1). Pull tank vent valve upwards to remove from bracket. Press down locking bracket (2), remove hose. Remove hose (3). Installation: Replace hose (3). Interrogate fault memory of DME control unit, check faults in memory, rectify faults and clear fault memory.

Version 2: Fuel pressure regulator on base of vehicle. Unfasten screws. Remove cover.

Pull off vacuum hose (1). Remove locking bracket (2). Remove fuel pressure regulator. Caution! Catch and dispose of escaping fuel.
---------------------------or----------------------

13 31 510 Removing and installing/replacing 3/2-way valve (M44, M52, S52)
Interrogate fault memory of DME control unit. Switch off ignition.
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Release screws Remove cover.

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Plug all fuel hoses with special tools 13 3 010.

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Detach vacuum hose (1) from pressure regulator. Caution! Catch and dispose off escaping fuel. Release hose clamps (2-5) and detach fuel hoses. Installation: Replace fuel lines and hose clips.

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Unfasten plug connection (1).

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Unfasten nuts (1) and remove 3/2-way valve. Installation: Interrogate fault memory of DME control unit, check faults in memory then cancel fault memory.

Read more: P1145 Error Code On My BMW How to Fix - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...#ixzz0uzPc3Wux
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after all that trouble turns out that the mechanic plug the Rear Light Plug into the 3/2 Solenoid and the 3/2 Solenoid into the rear light plug.



P1189 228 Fuel Control (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1250 p1250 is "fuel level too low" indicating either the obvious or a problem with the fuel level sender


this is as far as i have found on this website...

I must say i am greatful to be part of such an amazinf car forum.... i used to be a jdm fan... but they all just seemed to act like know it alls most the time, while bimmer enthusiasts are actually helpful


Thanks for your help guys... any one with simular problems.. this is probably why im not passing my emmision test too...

Btw the words and stuff are from other places.... i just copied what i thought was important to know...

Thanks guys

sproule905
08-06-2010, 08:03 PM
i believe the cylinders are counted from rad to the back.. i had a C2 misfire... and it was the 2nd plug from the rad..

doogee
08-06-2010, 10:31 PM
Lately ive had a fuel control code and the P1250.

But for your others, you need an o2 sensor, the code should tell you which.

The other codes can be caused by a vacuum leak.

iverson03tj
08-07-2010, 12:08 AM
Lately ive had a fuel control code and the P1250.

But for your others, you need an o2 sensor, the code should tell you which.

The other codes can be caused by a vacuum leak.

I think im going to change the fuel pressure regulator.. i was told its a pain to do.... also is the vacuum leak really bad.......

OH BTW the only thing i noticed on my car is that after 5k rpm i could notice the misfire... and it will keep misfireing but as soon as i turn the car off and start it again, the misfire would stop.... ALSO... my car will only go to 180km.... like on 4th n 5th gear..... it wont go over... WTF is happening... a week ago i did 200... today i cant even push past 180...

Daneee
08-07-2010, 10:36 PM
I think im going to change the fuel pressure regulator.. i was told its a pain to do.... also is the vacuum leak really bad.......

OH BTW the only thing i noticed on my car is that after 5k rpm i could notice the misfire... and it will keep misfireing but as soon as i turn the car off and start it again, the misfire would stop.... ALSO... my car will only go to 180km.... like on 4th n 5th gear..... it wont go over... WTF is happening... a week ago i did 200... today i cant even push past 180...

your engine working only on "reserve"
you have a vacum leak or the MAF sensor is gone
maybe this rubber is broken somewhere
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/4787/intakeelbowandmaf.jpg

iverson03tj
08-08-2010, 01:23 AM
your engine working only on "reserve"
you have a vacum leak or the MAF sensor is gone
maybe this rubber is broken somewhere
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/4787/intakeelbowandmaf.jpg

Im going to clean the maf and also that elbow is broken really badly... i had to duct tape it and then covered it with a layer of electrical tape..... till i find a boot that i can use to replace it.... because i got a air intake so the elbow is not in the right angle.... also i got only one whole in my intake elbow.. i think its for my traction control....

Please let me know where i can buy one thats in a different angle... also should i replace the maf or just clean it out.....

iverson03tj
08-08-2010, 01:25 AM
Im going to clean the maf and also that elbow is broken really badly... i had to duct tape it and then covered it with a layer of electrical tape..... till i find a boot that i can use to replace it.... because i got a air intake so the elbow is not in the right angle.... also i got only one whole in my intake elbow.. i think its for my traction control....

Please let me know where i can buy one thats in a different angle... also should i replace the maf or just clean it out.....


Also i noticed that when i push the peddle down and take my foot off, it takes like a second for the revs to come down.... and that is soo annoying.. esecially when im parking..:mad:

nachos23
08-08-2010, 07:06 AM
Start with the intake boot. Wasting your time doing anything else before fixing intake boot. ALso check the DISA valve (black box attached to side of intake manifold). MAF as well. These pieces are so integrated with fuek sensing, they can throw off a multitude of errors (random errors) with any vacuum leak. Replace defective intake (not used; they dry up, get brittle and crack)... Get both pieces @ Maranello for around $50... Replace those, get a can of combustion chmber cleaner and spray the entire intake side of engine, 1 part @ a time and make sure you've addressed all the leaks. Reset codes and see what you get...

iverson03tj
08-08-2010, 10:14 AM
Start with the intake boot. Wasting your time doing anything else before fixing intake boot. ALso check the DISA valve (black box attached to side of intake manifold). MAF as well. These pieces are so integrated with fuek sensing, they can throw off a multitude of errors (random errors) with any vacuum leak. Replace defective intake (not used; they dry up, get brittle and crack)... Get both pieces @ Maranello for around $50... Replace those, get a can of combustion chmber cleaner and spray the entire intake side of engine, 1 part @ a time and make sure you've addressed all the leaks. Reset codes and see what you get...

Ok thanks i will be doing this through out this week. Also where can i get an intake boot from.... im looking for a silicone one, because the angle that the intake elbow is made for the air box not the air intake and its the primary reason why the intake elbow cracked in the first place.

doogee
08-08-2010, 02:41 PM
Silicone isn't going to bend any easier than a stock one and they're $100 from
Bimmerworld.