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Bullet Ride
06-13-2010, 10:25 PM
So I got this car last august it a semi complete state. The car was "driveable" but it had a number of things that still needed to be sorted out. Well, I got busy fixing up my other car and just never got around to this car. I'd like to start working on it now here and there when I have the time so that I can have it ready to go for the fall.

The kit was a budget build. It has an e-bay manifold and turbo (TO4E 50 trim .63 a/r), knock off type-rs BOV, and some turbo chip (for 8psi maybe? I need to open the dme and take a look at it)

Things I need to do:
- Redo the intercooler set-up so that I can actually put the headlights back into the car
- Wire in wideband O2
- Install an oil pressure and oil temp gauge
- Clean up the engine bay (routing wires, vacuum lines, and hoses)
- Redo the brakes because they are shot
- Install the lowering springs and shocks I pulled from my other car
- Start shaking the car down looking for bugs.

At some point I'd like to go to a stand alone engine management (most likely MS) but I need to save some money for my last year of school starting this fall. So I just want to get the car into a driveable state, then next year I'll convert it to stand alone, add on some arp head studs... and up the boost:P

I'll update this thread as I work on the car, here are some pics of the car pretty much how I got it last year


http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01658.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01654.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01659.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01656.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01655.jpg

e30_kid89
06-14-2010, 01:39 AM
Looks like a decent base to work with but I think you'll get fed up with all that rrpfr business quickly and join the standalone darkside.

DO W0RK!

Denny
06-14-2010, 04:51 PM
This should be a good build. Decent clean looking engine bay

Bullet Ride
06-14-2010, 07:28 PM
Looks like a decent base to work with but I think you'll get fed up with all that rrpfr business quickly and join the standalone darkside.

DO W0RK!

Yea I'm definitely keeping my eye out for someone parting out their kit in case I can pick up a PnP unit on the cheap *smoke*

JINT
06-15-2010, 01:39 AM
doesn't look bad at all under the hood, quiet clean setup

Bullet Ride
07-30-2010, 09:25 AM
Well I know that I haven't updated this thread in over a month but I promise there will be some updates soon. I received my intercooler piping kit and hope to install that this weekend.

Also after doing a bunch of reading I figured that rather than spending money on a rrfpr or paying someone to tune my car for only one level of boost my best bet in terms of cost and flexability would be to go stand alone DIY style ...you were right Devon I got fed up before I even started lol :rolleyes:
I didn't like the idea of hacking up a harness or gutting a DME so I managed to scrape together the money to buy one of these... http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-bosch-55pin-unassembled-kit-p-385.html

e30_kid89
07-30-2010, 07:16 PM
Well I know that I haven't updated this thread in over a month but I promise there will be some updates soon. I received my intercooler piping kit and hope to install that this weekend.

Also after doing a bunch of reading I figured that rather than spending money on a rrfpr or paying someone to tune my car for only one level of boost my best bet in terms of cost and flexability would be to go stand alone DIY style ...you were right Devon I got fed up before I even started lol :rolleyes:
I didn't like the idea of hacking up a harness or gutting a DME so I managed to scrape together the money to buy one of these... http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-bosch-55pin-unassembled-kit-p-385.html

Win. You saved yourself a lot of time getting the car running well vs playing with the FMU. I wish i picked up one of those but they werent around when I went MS:( Just take your time putting it together and you will be good to go, when it comes time to get it running let me know if you have any questions setting things up.

Just noticed in the pic as well you should re do those vaccum lines and make deadicated ones for the WG, MS and boost gauge if you have one, the BOV you can tee off the FPR line.

I also have some 36lb injectors fs:) sell it to ya cheap cause they needs rebuild lovin but I know thats no sweat for you..let me know!

Bullet Ride
07-30-2010, 07:53 PM
Win. You saved yourself a lot of time getting the car running well vs playing with the FMU. I wish i picked up one of those but they werent around when I went MS:( Just take your time putting it together and you will be good to go, when it comes time to get it running let me know if you have any questions setting things up.

Just noticed in the pic as well you should re do those vaccum lines and make deadicated ones for the WG, MS and boost gauge if you have one, the BOV you can tee off the FPR line.

I also have some 36lb injectors fs:) sell it to ya cheap cause they needs rebuild lovin but I know thats no sweat for you..let me know!

Yeah vacuum lines are on my to do list. I will need injectors eventually because the 24lb injectors that are in the car will only be good for around 200-220hp.
Are you using Tunerstudio? I know Everlast is. That's what I'm planning on using.

e30_kid89
07-30-2010, 08:00 PM
Yeah vacuum lines are on my to do list. I will need injectors eventually because the 24lb injectors that are in the car will only be good for around 200-220hp.
Are you using Tunerstudio? I know Everlast is. That's what I'm planning on using.

Yes im using Tunerstudio...megatune is...bleh!

let me know if youd want teh injectors, hate to see parts sitting that be put to good use!

Bullet Ride
08-07-2010, 11:26 AM
Just a quick update. Look what came in the mail this week...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01831.jpg

I was hoping to build it this weekend but alas I'm tied up with some other things unfortunately.

"k"car man
08-12-2010, 03:56 PM
That looks like my car;) Let me know on how she's doing, looks like she's in good hands.

Good Luck on the build, take me for a ride when your done.

Thanks Jeremie

Bullet Ride
08-31-2010, 09:37 PM
Ok so I FINALLY got around to putting together the DIYPNP kit. Between last night and today I've assembled the kit 99%. There's just a couple more jumper wires that I need to research into before I hook them up.

Picsssss...

Just getting everything laid out

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01841.jpg

Starting to put in the resistors

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01844.jpg

All resistors in place...yeah, there's not very many...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01846.jpg

Diodes, capacitors, transistors, and one chip soldered in...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01848.jpg

Transistors soldered....

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01849.jpg

Serial ports, 12V power supply, and map sensor soldered

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01850.jpg

Microsquirt board installed

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01851.jpg

Test fit in case with Bosch 55 pin adapter board.

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01852.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01853.jpg

Jumpers pretty much done

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01854.jpg


This kit was pretty easy to put together. All the components are labelled and the general assembly guide is clear and easy to follow. The DIYPNP guys also have an install guide on their site specifically for a late model E30 325i that has a jumper table and some other important notes. They also include base maps for the car so you can start the car. If you wanted to you could build and install one of these units on a stock N/A car and roughly tune it in a single weekend which is amazing if you ask me.

There were also a few things that I emailed them to ask about because some of my jumpers are slightly different than the stock jumper configuration and they were very prompt to respond (I actually identified a small but important typo in their guide that they are going to fix)

Tomorrow I'll power up the unit to load the firmware and base maps. Hopefully all goes well.

craz azn
09-01-2010, 12:54 AM
Sick, good progress. I want to do this one day when I have time and a car I don't have to rely on for DD duties (preferably another E30 :))

e30_kid89
09-01-2010, 01:44 AM
Nice! Love that diyautotune took the time to make the PnP option..wish it was around when I was MS shopping. It looks a lot easier to install vs the standard v3.0 board which is good and has all the circuits you need already built in. Only thing is you're stuck with MS2 but thats not bad at all!

Hurry and get it in, tuned and boosted! You're one weekend away from having a tuned turbo car!

Bullet Ride
09-01-2010, 09:07 AM
Sick, good progress. I want to do this one day when I have time and a car I don't have to rely on for DD duties (preferably another E30 :))

It is nice to have a non DD project car so you don't always have to worry about "how do I get to work on Monday if things don't work out this weekend..." lol
But like I was saying, this kit is easy enough to build that you can build it and tune a car so that it's fairly drivable over a weekend, and since it's PNP you can always just swap the stock DME back in at any time and drive the car.


Nice! Love that diyautotune took the time to make the PnP option..wish it was around when I was MS shopping. It looks a lot easier to install vs the standard v3.0 board which is good and has all the circuits you need already built in. Only thing is you're stuck with MS2 but thats not bad at all!

Hurry and get it in, tuned and boosted! You're one weekend away from having a tuned turbo car!

Yeah once I'm done the ECU I need to make a vacuum manifold, install E36 variable TPS, install IAT sensor, and redo the IC piping. Then I'll get the car started and blowing head gaskets... I mean start tuning :D

Bullet Ride
09-01-2010, 09:42 AM
Question for the MS guys...

When you installed a variable TPS (assuming that you did) I know that on the Motronic connector there is a TPS SIG and a TPS VREF. What did you connect the TPS VREF to? 12V, 5V, or 0V?

everlast
09-01-2010, 12:10 PM
I'm not sure of the 'labels' but 5V for sure. One pin goes to ground and the last goes to MS as the signal. MS has a 5v output pin for this very purpose, so if the MS is wired right there are no changes needed to the TPS end.

Mine ended up being "backwards" (WOT is a low number, etc) but it works fine that way. TS gives you a warning, you hit ok, and go on.

Bullet Ride
09-01-2010, 01:16 PM
I'm not sure of the 'labels' but 5V for sure. One pin goes to ground and the last goes to MS as the signal. MS has a 5v output pin for this very purpose, so if the MS is wired right there are no changes needed to the TPS end.

Mine ended up being "backwards" (WOT is a low number, etc) but it works fine that way. TS gives you a warning, you hit ok, and go on.

I was referring from the adapter board to the MS, not the TPS end. So I know that pin 52 (TPS SIG) on the motronic needs to be jumpered to the TPS pin on the MS. I was just wondering where the jumper from pin 53 (TPS VREF) needed to go to. Now I know that it needs to go to the 5V pin.

Thanks.

Another question..
The install guide that the DIYPNP guys put together lists that pins 2, 10, 14, 24, and 26 on the motronic connector need to be grounded. With pins 10, and 26 being specifically sensor grounds. Based on this diagram http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3096/2590067262_8293076bfc_o.png all of those pins are grounds which is good, however I noticed that pin 19 is also listed as a ground. Any idea on what pin 19 is and if it needs to be grounded or if it's just a redundant ground?

Bullet Ride
09-01-2010, 07:29 PM
So I powered up the unit and was able to load the firmware. I went to open a base map that I downloaded from the DIYPNP site in tunerstudio and it told me that it had a different signature (MS2E 2.1.1a vs my MS2E 3.0.3s). I loaded it anyways. Then it asked me if I wanted to send and burn it to the controller. I said ok. It said that there were a few errors, I reviewed the log and there were 5 warnings saying that certain values were ignored because they aren't in the current configuration.

Is that something I should expect since the file signatures were different?

e30_kid89
09-01-2010, 09:14 PM
thats werid, usually with tunerstudio when it senses a different signature you get prompted to load the .ini file for w/e firmware it doesn't recgonize and it should iron things out and get the tune working with the firmware thats loaded on MS.

idk maybe its different with the pnp?

everlast
09-01-2010, 11:20 PM
MS is really finicky for stuff like this. Do this:

- start a new project in TS called 2.1.1DIYTune, select 2.1.1 from the ECU list
- load the DIY tune in with no errors (if you get errors, start over, select the right ini)
- open ANOTHER window of TS
- start a new project called 3.0.3uLive
- reburn the 3.0.3u firmware
- open the 3.0.3live and connect to the MS unit. should have no conflict

Now, manually go from the 2.1.1 TS window to the 3.0.3u TS window, copying any setting you can. You now have a stable 3.0.3u base tune.

The alternative is to load the 2.1.1 firmware. Loading MSQ with 3.0.3 firmware may lead to table corruption (ask me how I know) and this is the ONLY truly safe way to do it.

You can export and import the VE, Spark and AFR tables so you really only have a few screens; its not that bad.

I'd do this over running 2.1.1 anyday, as 3.0.3u has quite a few fixes in place.

Bullet Ride
09-03-2010, 03:26 PM
So what happens if you hit a value that's outside of one of the tables? So say you hit an intake pressure greater than the highest value in the AFR target table... for the rpm that the car is at will the MS just use the value in the top row corresponding to that rpm?

The reason I ask is that once in boost a target afr of somewhere in the low 12's is typically acceptable for moderate levels of boost (i.e. 8-10psi). So if MS is just going to use the value along the top row when manifold pressure goes above the highest value on the y-axis I figure why not just have the max pressure of the y-axis on the target AFR table 100kpa and have values somewhere between 12 and 13 along the top row. That way I don't need to mess with dual tables and I can get better resolution in the low end and cruising areas.

So is that how MS handles values outside of the tables?
If not I'll come up with a proper table

e30_kid89
09-03-2010, 07:10 PM
So what happens if you hit a value that's outside of one of the tables? So say you hit an intake pressure greater than the highest value in the AFR target table... for the rpm that the car is at will the MS just use the value in the top row corresponding to that rpm?

The reason I ask is that once in boost a target afr of somewhere in the low 12's is typically acceptable for moderate levels of boost (i.e. 8-10psi). So if MS is just going to use the value along the top row when manifold pressure goes above the highest value on the y-axis I figure why not just have the max pressure of the y-axis on the target AFR table 100kpa and have values somewhere between 12 and 13 along the top row. That way I don't need to mess with dual tables and I can get better resolution in the low end and cruising areas.

So is that how MS handles values outside of the tables?
If not I'll come up with a proper table


If I understand what you're asking then yes it will use the last highest value. ex. along the whole 100kpa row your target afr is 13.0:1 AFR then at 110kpa then MS would "assume" that same target for 110kpa.

I wouldn't recommend doing that though, I'd put equal priortity into crusing cells/medium load cells/boost cells. Besides most of your cells down below 100kpa will be either +/- stoich so theres no need for max resolution down there.

Doesn't the base map come with a AFR table already?

Bullet Ride
09-03-2010, 08:24 PM
If I understand what you're asking then yes it will use the last highest value. ex. along the whole 100kpa row your target afr is 13.0:1 AFR then at 110kpa then MS would "assume" that same target for 110kpa.

I wouldn't recommend doing that though, I'd put equal priortity into crusing cells/medium load cells/boost cells. Besides most of your cells down below 100kpa will be either +/- stoich so theres no need for max resolution down there.

Doesn't the base map come with a AFR table already?

It comes with an afr table that ends at 100kpa (base map for N/A car). However I guess I need to redo the table so it goes up to 200kpa. I'll post the tables up after I redo the afr table and maybe you and everlast can chime in and give me your opinions.

e30_kid89
09-03-2010, 09:48 PM
It comes with an afr table that ends at 100kpa (base map for N/A car). However I guess I need to redo the table so it goes up to 200kpa. I'll post the tables up after I redo the afr table and maybe you and everlast can chime in and give me your opinions.

Hey I just downloaded the basemaps, theres one for a turbo 325 w/42lb injectors. Just re-calculate the req-fuel and it should get your car running enough to tune it.

Bullet Ride
09-03-2010, 10:43 PM
Hey I just downloaded the basemaps, theres one for a turbo 325 w/42lb injectors. Just re-calculate the req-fuel and it should get your car running enough to tune it.

Yeah, I had exported the tables from that tune and imported them into mine. I just went back and looked at them now, I guess I forgot the AFR table. That saves me some time *th-up*

Bullet Ride
09-04-2010, 07:56 PM
So it looks like I won't have my car running next week. I need some silicone reducing elbows and the shop in town wanted around $75 a piece for each coupler. I found equivalent quality couplers online for $20 a piece but shipping is 6-10 days.

$300 and my car will be running next weekend, or $80 and wait an extra week... I'll keep the extra $200 and wait lol.

In the mean time I'll work on all the other small things that need to be completed.

I also have a starting issue that I need to figure out, it's either a weak battery or a sticky solenoid on the starter, I tried hitting it with a hammer and that didn't work, so I'll try jumping the car with a good battery. If that doesn't work I'll pull the starter.

Bullet Ride
09-26-2010, 09:28 PM
Ok so I finally got those reducing elbows I needed last week so I was able to finish the car up this weekend.

Intercooler fitment. I wanted to put the fan on the engine side as a puller however there wasn't enough clearance as it was too thick, so for now it will have to stay where it is.

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01967.jpg

Piping coming from the turbo...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01971.jpg

Piping going into the throttle body. I still need to get a fitting welded onto the BOV tube so I can run a tube to the ICV

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01973.jpg

A few more pictures after I moved it out of the garage

I can actually have headlights now *drink*, still need to get a new bucket for the left side as well as 2 new highbeams ...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01980.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01985.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01984.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01982.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/DSC01981.jpg


Ok so now who wants to come over and help me getting running off the MS unit I built*wiggle*

I didn't have too much time to play around with the unit it, I plugged it into the car, all the relevant sensors seemed to be reading fine (MAP, TPS, CTS, IAT). I had all the settings set exactly the same as the settings in the tune I downloaded from diyautotune except for the req_fuel. When I turn the key to the run position the fuel pump would come on briefly like it usually does. However when I cranked the car over I'd get nothing, wouldn't sputter or anything, it would just crank over. As I said, I didn't have much time to fiddle around with it so I didn't check to make sure that it was getting spark, but after cranking it over a few times I could smell fuel, so I'm assuming it's getting fuel. Since I'm back at school now, I won't be able to work on the car again until next weekend but if you guys have any suggestions I'm all ears.

Luckily even though there's no more AFM I was able to put the stock DME back in and the car would start up and idle roughly, it would run enough to let me move the car out of the garage lol

zerosignal
09-26-2010, 09:37 PM
nice work, im jealou, offtopic question... what colour are the black rims on the black e30?? are those just powder coated black or 'black chrome' or something

Bullet Ride
09-26-2010, 10:00 PM
nice work, im jealou, offtopic question... what colour are the black rims on the black e30?? are those just powder coated black or 'black chrome' or something

They're a bronze colour. They came painted that way. I wish they were powder coated as the finish on these rims scratches pretty easily.

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325i/stevensrims001.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325i/DSC01626.jpg

zerosignal
09-26-2010, 10:07 PM
ohhh man those are dope!!! i hope my city has a guy who can double that colour in powder coat for my style 66's!!!!

Bullet Ride
09-27-2010, 12:09 AM
Back on topic..... The one thing that I forgot to mention was that while I was cranking at the bottom of the screen in tunerstudio it would say "not cranking" until I let go of the key, then I would see it change to red and say "cranking" for a split second then change back to "not cranking".

I'm not sure if that is typical, or if it's an indication of a problem?

I also just realized that I had forgotten to hook up the vacuum line to the MAP sensor in the ecu. I'm not sure if that would cause a starting problem in any way (i.e. the unit is looking for vacuum while cranking or something)?

everlast
09-27-2010, 01:13 AM
Yes, vacuum line would effect things, but not as much as cranking RPM. Whatever RPM you crank at (mines around 210rpm) you need to set Cranking RPM about 100 higher than what you see. If its set too low, then the vehicle doesn't see the engine as cranking and doesn't apply startup enrichment, etc.

What software are you using.. Tunerstudio I hope? I'd recommend buying the registered version and doing a crank position sensor log from the Diagnostics tab (composite log and tooth log). That will ensure you're seeing a stable and correct crank signal.

Then ensure you're seeing spark with the tried and true "pull the plug and look for spark" method.

Report back, good luck!!

Bullet Ride
09-27-2010, 04:27 PM
Yes, vacuum line would effect things, but not as much as cranking RPM. Whatever RPM you crank at (mines around 210rpm) you need to set Cranking RPM about 100 higher than what you see. If its set too low, then the vehicle doesn't see the engine as cranking and doesn't apply startup enrichment, etc.

What software are you using.. Tunerstudio I hope? I'd recommend buying the registered version and doing a crank position sensor log from the Diagnostics tab (composite log and tooth log). That will ensure you're seeing a stable and correct crank signal.

Then ensure you're seeing spark with the tried and true "pull the plug and look for spark" method.

Report back, good luck!!

Yeah I'm using Tunersturdio. I don't think you need the registered version to use the composite log and tooth log. I have the free one and have access to the diagnostics tab. I even data logged a composite log while I was cranking and saved it to a file. I need to pull it off the laptop I was using though. Do I view it with megalogviewer?

everlast
09-27-2010, 04:43 PM
Oh, so you have a beta version. He's removed those tools in the newest ones I think.

Anyway, you view composite logs and tooth logs right in the diagnostics tab.

Bullet Ride
09-27-2010, 05:11 PM
I have version 0.999.7 and in the diagnostics tab there is only an ignition logger tab. I can't see any option to load logs either.

everlast
09-27-2010, 05:13 PM
Yeah, I think you need the regged version to do this. I have four types of logs, start / stop / time and an Open Log button.

everlast
09-27-2010, 05:13 PM
Honestly, supporting this software is worth it IMO. It is exceedingly good software.

Bullet Ride
09-27-2010, 05:19 PM
Yeah I'll be registering within the next few days.
How well does the VE analyze live work in terms of automatically tuning while you drive?

everlast
09-27-2010, 06:35 PM
It is quite good. I typically do a log, then have MLV (which I also bought, though its not as crippled) analyze it, new tune and repeat, but for cruise and light throttle stuff the VEAL can't be beat.

Bullet Ride
09-27-2010, 10:38 PM
I pulled those couple logs I made just to check them out. Apparently I'm not getting an rpm signal except for right when I let go of the key which is when I saw the "not cranking" box change to red and say "cranking". I also opened the tooth log and plotted it. I'm not sure how to interpret it though except that those 0 points are where the marks on the wheel are and the log software did pick up those positions because they were highlighted in the log.

Any ideas on the rpm signal?

blk3
09-27-2010, 10:50 PM
off topic, you should relocate your coil to a less heat prown location. you would hate to have the coil fail on you because of too much heat soak.

Bullet Ride
09-27-2010, 11:39 PM
I was thinking of extending the wires from the harness so I could mount it further forward. but for now it should be ok.

e30_kid89
09-28-2010, 03:03 PM
change your "Ignition input capture" Under tach input/ignition options

everlast
09-28-2010, 03:28 PM
And enable noise filter.. those two odd spikes are noise which can be filtered easily. I have a thread on e30tech about it.

What settings are you running under tach input / ignition now?

Bullet Ride
09-28-2010, 03:29 PM
change your "Ignition input capture" Under tach input/ignition options

sonofabitch falling edge is correct

Thanks *th-up*

...first start video coming friday afternoon?
hopefully*rockout*

e30_kid89
09-28-2010, 03:50 PM
sonofabitch falling edge is correct

Thanks *th-up*

...first start video coming friday afternoon?
hopefully*rockout*

Heh. NP. Just trying to help people out and breathe some damn life into the section.

El Gato Liso
10-01-2010, 12:35 PM
ill have this section alive soon

Bullet Ride
10-02-2010, 02:08 PM
Quick video of what happened yesterday afternoon.

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The car idled fine while it was cold, but when it got up to temp I needed to press the gas to keep it running. My O2 sensor wasn't reading so I may have wired it incorrectly. I'll look into that next weekend.

Also is anyone running an ICV? Right now I just have it set to PWM Warmup, but I need to change it to one of the ICV options and configure it. Just not sure what values to put for the stepper motor.

e30_kid89
10-02-2010, 07:20 PM
Quick video of what happened yesterday afternoon.

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The car idled fine while it was cold, but when it got up to temp I needed to press the gas to keep it running. My O2 sensor wasn't reading so I may have wired it incorrectly. I'll look into that next weekend.

Also is anyone running an ICV? Right now I just have it set to PWM Warmup, but I need to change it to one of the ICV options and configure it. Just not sure what values to put for the stepper motor.


NICE!! You've got the car running so that's one major step completed.

As for the idle i'd run pwm warmup until you fully understand the workings of the closed-loop idle control. Only closed loop and pwm warmup work with the stock icv.

the wb02 is only one wire + grnd, hook it up to know what's going on!!

the next update better has more vids of sildewayzz action :D

everlast
10-02-2010, 07:55 PM
NICE!

Stepper motor? Are you using the factory ICV and a GG board to control it? If so, you don't use the stepper stuff.

I use the factory ICV and GG board, and use closed loop mode on it. Its a bit of a chore to get it working right, but I've found some tricks.

Bullet Ride
10-02-2010, 09:20 PM
the wb02 is only one wire + grnd, hook it up to know what's going on!!

the next update better has more vids of sildewayzz action :D

Yeah, I had spliced the wires into the stock harness, but I might have gotten the two wires backwards. I was thinking of maybe using the DB15 connector and running them straight into the box rather than going thru the harness. I also thought that I had an AEM wb02 because I hadn't looked at the box in a year..but I have an autometer sport comp. In the afr calibration there's only one option that says Autometer 0v=afr10 4v=afr16. It's either that or I pick the linear option and put in the specs that are on the data sheet for the gauge.

As for the idle i'd run pwm warmup until you fully understand the workings of the closed-loop idle control. Only closed loop and pwm warmup work with the stock icv.

NICE!

Stepper motor? Are you using the factory ICV and a GG board to control it? If so, you don't use the stepper stuff.

I use the factory ICV and GG board, and use closed loop mode on it. Its a bit of a chore to get it working right, but I've found some tricks.

I'm using the stock ICV and the DIYPNP board has a built in IAC circuit. I said stepper motor because I figured that a 3 wire connector would be for a stepper unit, but I guess our ICVs are a 3 wire PWM solenoid.

the next update better has more vids of sildewayzz action :D

You got any vidz of your car doing teh sidewayzz boost dorifto? I need some instructional videos :P

everlast
10-05-2010, 02:34 PM
If you want, I can give you my tune so you can look at how I have the idle settings. Let me know.

Bullet Ride
10-16-2010, 10:30 PM
So I finally got around to fixing the wiring or my O2 sensor. I just decided to use the spare DB15 connector and wire the O2 directly to the MS rather than going through the harness. To my relief it appears that the afr gauge in Tunerstudio is reading the same as the actual wideband gauge.

I'm still having that issue where the car seems to idle ok when it's cold, but once it warms up it wants to die. It seems like it's not getting enough air, because it's running rich and dieing. I need to take a closer look at the idle settings.

Another weird thing happened, since the afr gauge seemed to be reading ok, even though the car wouldn't idle properly, I decided to see if the car would actually drive properly. It seemed to drive ok. Then keeping a close eye on the afr gauge I tried to climb into boost a little bit, as soon as the car got into boost it shut off. The car just completely turned off, I don't have overboost protection enabled yet so i know that's not the cause, and I definitely wasn't near the revlimiter. Has anyone heard of that happening before?

Anyways, when I get some time I'll play around with it a bit more. I still need to buy a license for Tunerstudio so I can take full advantage of it.

Bullet Ride
10-31-2010, 05:28 PM
So I went out today to start the car because it had been sitting for a couple weeks. I played with the pwm settings and was able to get the car to idle when warm without me pressing the gas. I also decreased the req_fuel and scaled the VE table to get more resolution to make it easier to hit the afr targets.

I took the car for a quick spin to get a log of that problem I'm having when the car gets into boost. The problem is I'm getting a sync loss, and the sync loss reason says 2 which corresponds to missing tooth at wrong time. I'll post the log later, but it's happening all the time around 2800-3000 rpm. I currently have no noise filtering enabled though. I guess I could try turning that on and see if it solves the problem.

e30_kid89
10-31-2010, 05:32 PM
enable noise filtering asap

Bullet Ride
10-31-2010, 06:05 PM
enable noise filtering asap

Just tried turning on noise filtering, still had the problem and at the same rpm.

Bullet Ride
10-31-2010, 10:12 PM
Heres a log file showing the problem I'm having.

I have the tooth angle set at 88 degrees because that's what the DIYPNP site had, but I've seen some people with 87 degrees. What do you guys run?

Bullet Ride
11-02-2010, 04:28 PM
Here's a composite log I took before I had the noise filtering on. Nothing really stood out at me in terms of noise.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=51ZZM5N3

Bullet Ride
11-07-2010, 02:43 PM
So I went out to get a sync loss log (see attached picture)
After speaking with Matt Cramer he suggested trying to increase the resistor value on the vr signal from 18k to 25k, and then if that doesn't work, to use the LM1815 circuit that's part of the V1.5 DIYPNP board (which I built the circuit but didn't wire anything up to it).

Anyways I went to change the resistor first because that was easy... I touched the jumper wire for the vr signal and it just popped out of the board! There was a botched solder *uzi* So I promptly fixed it, confident that would solve my sync loss problem... no such luck, it's still acting exactly the same.

So I'm going to read up a bit more on that LM1815 circuit, since I built the circuit I minus well use it if it works well.

Bullet Ride
07-18-2011, 10:03 PM
Back from the dead....

Any MS guys here have any experience with the LM1815 VR Conditioner circuit?

Last year I had an issue with my DIYPNP where the car wouldn't rev past 2500rpm. I checked my tooth log and noticed some irregular noise and I was getting sync loss error code #2. I tried noise filtering to no avail. After speaking with Matt Cramer he recommended switching to the LM1815 circuit. However winter rolled around and the car got put away.

Fast forward to this year, I took the car out of storage a few weeks ago. It fired right up with no issues, still with the same problem as last year not being able to rev past 2500rpm. So I decided to try and switch over to the LM1815

Last year Matt had pointed me to this application document for an example of how to implement the circuit (http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/n76/usdm-toy-tacoma-9597-5vzfe-mt.html). I wired the VR+ input on the connector board to the VR+ on the LM1815 circuit and the VR- input on the connector board to the VR- on the LM1815. Then I wired the LM1815 Out to Relay 3 In and Relay 3 Out to Opto+ and I installed the Opto ground jumper. I tried starting the car and now it's not getting a cranking signal so the car won't start.

Is this the way it's supposed to be wired? Was I supposed to keep the 18k resistor in series with the VR+ input (I removed it)? Do any changes need to be made in the TunerStudio Settings.

Any help advice would be greatly appreciated *wave*

dcramer
07-18-2011, 10:14 PM
that link is dead.

Bullet Ride
07-18-2011, 10:16 PM
that link is dead.

Fixed. Sorry about that.

dcramer
07-19-2011, 07:42 AM
are you talking about this http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/BuildingAndModding.asp circuit ?

Bullet Ride
07-19-2011, 08:53 AM
The DIYPNP has the circuit built into the board. I'm just unsure about where the output of the circuit is supposed to go.

dcramer
07-19-2011, 10:27 AM
I'd have to see the circuit.

Bullet Ride
07-19-2011, 10:56 AM
I'd have to see the circuit.

I guess there is the potential for the chip itself to be dead, but assuming the circuit is fine I'm only concerned with the inputs and outputs. I picture the LM1815 circuit as a black box. I input VR+ and VR- and I get an output.

The application guide shows the output going to a relay. I'm guessing that's to trigger the relay to power the chip. If that's the case would a pull up resistor be required? The application doesn't specifically state this.

Bullet Ride
07-31-2011, 05:50 PM
UPDATE:

I was able to get the LM1815 circuit figured out (thanks to Matt Cramer). The Opto GND needed to be off, and the Relay 3 output needed to be wired to Opto -. with a 470 ohm, 5 volt pullup in the R3 slot.

However the I still had the same issue as before when using the LM1815, I was getting a sync loss which was preventing the car from revving past 2500rpm.

So I switched back to the original circuit and started playing with the resistor in series with the VR+ signal. Originally I had a 16k resistor. The application guide on diyautotune said 18k, which I didn't have, so I tried the next highest one I had which was a 22k. No change, same issue. So I tried the next highest one which was 33k and with that it was even worse, the car would experience the sync loss around 1500rpm. So that made me figure it's not an issue with the voltage in the signal being too high, it was being pulled down too low. I tried switching over to a 10k resistor and guess what.... she can rev freely now!!!

I was so relieved to get past this hurdle. I took the car for a quick rip up the road so I could finally feel some boost. It pulled nicely, but I wasn't in it too long until my car all of a sudden wanted to rev up to redline by itself. I shut it off and pulled over, a quick look at the engine showed that the tube from the ICV popped out of the manifold, I shoved it back in and drove the car back home. Time to buy some RTV, make sure everything is sealed up and start tuning :)

e30_kid89
08-01-2011, 02:16 PM
Sick! Good work man get er done! We need more turbo BMWs on the roads :)

everlast
08-02-2011, 12:26 PM
SWEEET great perseverance to get 'er running!

Bullet Ride
08-02-2011, 02:06 PM
Thanks guys. I was getting pretty frustrated with the thing… I was almost at the point where I wanted to install an adjustable pot because I was sick and tired of swapping resistors. In hind sight however, installing an adjustable pot for the VR+ signal might be a good thing to note for future applications. The reason I say this is because I was in contact with the guys at diyautotune to try and help me troubleshoot this problem. They were recommending installing the larger resistors because they’ve had feedback from some other customers that required resistors anywhere from 18k to 30k+ on their M20 applications. However I also saw some discussion online where people needed to use a smaller resistor (like me) to get things to work properly. Having an adjustable pot would make things easy because you can just turn the adjustment screw until you get a nice stable signal with no sync losses.

Bullet Ride
10-24-2011, 02:52 PM
Back to the issue with the ICV tube popping out. I'm going to be coming back from europe in a week and want to get back to work on the car. I was thinking about just getting rid of the ICV all together, pipe tap the hole and plug it. Have any of you guys done that or read of people that have done that? I figure I can just use the screw on the throttle body and just crack it enough that it will idle. The car doesn't need to be e-tested so I don't really care if it has to idle a bit higher. The reason I'm asking is because I'd rather just eliminate potential leak points than create them. If I run the ICV then I need to plumb it back into the charge piping because it will leak boost and in order to do that I need to weld on a bung and have another coupler with two clamps.

Bullet Ride
11-03-2011, 09:24 PM
So now that I am back in the country and currently unemployed (just starting to look for jobs) I'm making a bit of a push to get the mechanicals of my turbo car finished before the winter. I've been sitting on the car for two years now, it's time I get it done.

First thing I wanted to do was weld in a flex joint. For some reason the PO was ok with having an exhaust shop weld up his exhaust solid with no flex joint...

Easy fix, cut a section out and weld a flex joint in

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/picture001.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/picture002.jpg

I spent today working on the brakes, ended up having to grind out one of the screws that holds the disc in place because it was seized and it stripped. Because of that I only got the front brakes done before deciding to call it quits. Also spotted that one of the rubber flex lines must have been rubbing on a tire at one point because it was all chewed up so I'll have to replace that.

Upon inspecting the car further... there's a hole in the floor pan on the driver's side. I'll probably just chop a bit out, rivet a plate in and slather a few pounds of tar over it just so my feet don't go through the floor.

I've also go 6 of these on order since the 24lb injectors currently in the car are nowhere near sufficient... 42lb bosch design III injectors ftw.
http://i.ebayimg.com/14/!CEmSJwgEGk~$(KGrHqN,!jUE1JGJ,!11BNSY7ZOzS!~~_12.J PG

After that, all I have left to do is plumb the ICV into the charge piping and clean up a bit of wiring. Then the car will more or less be done and I can start fiddling around with tuning it. As it sits with its very conservative "get it running" tune and it's undersized injectors it feels like a low 5 second 0-100 car, so I'm definitely looking forward to getting it tuned better... and having to replace the clutch because of the power *drink*

DIY
11-04-2011, 03:15 AM
Its sounding awesome! Although with those bigger injectors your probably going to want a bigger downpipe. Good luck looking for a job!

Bullet Ride
11-04-2011, 09:14 AM
Its sounding awesome! Although with those bigger injectors your probably going to want a bigger downpipe. Good luck looking for a job!

Yeah, I would have gone at least 2.5" all the way if I had done it. The car currently has a 2.5" down pipe that necks into a 2.25" along the bottom of the car. I'll just have to live with it for now because I don't want to spend money redoing the whole exhaust.

Bullet Ride
11-06-2011, 08:20 PM
Some more progress, I finished up changing all the brakes this afternoon. While I was in the back I swapped the shocks and springs for some better condition stuff I had lying around. I didn't tackle the front shocks and springs because the housings are pretty rusty and will most likely be a bitch to take apart. Instead I sourced a better condition set of strut housings to build with the shocks and springs I have and then swap them over. While I was in the back I also patched up a hole in the wheel well that a mouse kept going into and making nests in my trunk...

Pics:

Old rusted shock that wouldn't even rebound when I compressed it...
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/work004.jpg

Sweet hole in wheel well and rotted overflow return cover...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/work005.jpg

Patched the hole with fibre glass and sprayed on some undercoat

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/work009.jpg

All back together with a slightly less rusted overflow return cover that doesn't fit properly and is held on by 3 out of 8 plastic nuts that use to be there... solid as a rock!

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/work010.jpg

Took it for a quick rip once I got it back together, I didn't have the laptop with me to log it, but I noticed that when I was doing pulls at higher rpm I must have been getting some sort of tach loss, it didn't seem to make the car stumble at all, but I noticed that the needle on the tach was bouncing ( i.e. I'd be at 5000 rpm and it'd bounce from 5000 to 4000 and back). One other weird thing that happened is that the car just shut off while I was driving lol. I think it might have something to do with how my wideband is wired into the relay.

Bullet Ride
11-08-2011, 09:01 PM
So the green monsters were delivered today. I installed them this afternoon, I adjusted the req_fuel in tunerstudio and scaled the VE map accordingly. I also loaded a more aggressive timing map I made up. By this point it was almost dark and the cluster lights and head lights on the car don't currently work so I took the car for a quick rip... she pulls pretty good *rockout* and the injector pulsewidth isn't infinity anymore to get enough fuel when in boost lol

The timing map I got off of a guy with a similar set-up but I pulled 5 degrees off his numbers just to be safe, but it's good to know that I still have some head room *th-up*

DIY
11-09-2011, 01:46 AM
That's awesome! Sounds like its coming along nicely

Maybe I missed it but what are your goals for this? Ie how much boost/Hp are you looking to run/are running now? Track use only car? Are you using boost control in the MS? :)

Bullet Ride
11-09-2011, 08:46 AM
That's awesome! Sounds like its coming along nicely

Maybe I missed it but what are your goals for this? Ie how much boost/Hp are you looking to run/are running now? Track use only car? Are you using boost control in the MS? :)

I'm not using electronic boost control, but I am using an overboost fuel cut for protection. The built in waste gate seems to have a 10psi spring so for now I'll tune for that. The guy I pulled the timing map from had an M20B25 with an HX35 running 10psi and he made ~280rwhp. My turbo is smaller but the motor is an M20B27 so I'd be happy with ~250rwhp

Next year I'm going to pull the head and install an ARP stud kit and possibly get the water jackets welded then up the boost which will end up driving me to get a new clutch lol. I'm not planning to track this car, it'll just be a fun street car. Goal for next year is 300+rwhp.

Bullet Ride
04-01-2012, 02:03 PM
Well now that I've pulled the car out of storage I'm starting to work on it during the time that I can't work on my stroker motor. Last year I had a goal for this year of 300+rwhp however that was before I decided to dive into this stroker project. Seeing as that project is sucking up a good amount of money, my goal for this car for now is to just get it all buttoned up, insured and on the road so that once I'm done building my motor I can pull the other car off the road and start working on the swap.

Working towards getting the car on the road, yesterday I swapped in some less weathered front suspension bits. This is the stuff I pulled from my car when I installed the GC coilovers plus another set of housings I bought...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/2012001.jpg
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/2012003.jpg

And this is what it replaced...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/2012006.jpg

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss191/StevoM5/325%20turbo/2012003.jpg

Now that I've got the breaks and suspension more or less done I just have to clean up the car and do a bit of wiring and it should be good to go. Then of course I have to tune it.

Bullet Ride
05-15-2012, 12:26 AM
So now that I have a registered version of tunerstudio I drove around for about 20min this evening and went through several iterations of allowing VEAL to smooth out my fuel table. The car showed a major improvement in the driveability. The table will still need some manual smoothing done to it but I am very impressed with how well the car drives now and how quick and simple it was to tune it. However, when I was a few km from home my exhaust suddenly got a lot louder while doing a pull. A quick look under the car showed that the exhaust clamp right after the downpipe came loose and the exhaust separated leaving me with a fairly short straight pipe lol.

I decided to take a short video of what it sounded like before I fixed it... and yes my low beams need some serious adjustment... turn it up!

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/YPQXMGeLG9o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

El Gato Liso
05-16-2012, 12:14 PM
you should put this turbo on your 2.8 stroke ;)

looks bloody awesome dude brooo

Bullet Ride
05-16-2012, 12:49 PM
you should put this turbo on your 2.8 stroke ;)

looks bloody awesome dude brooo

I wouldn't put this turbo on the 2.8, the manifold and turbo are ebay junk. The 2.8 is going to be sitting around 9.8:1 compression so if/when I get bored of driving it n/a I'll probably end up doing a custom, low boost (8-9psi) vortex/paxton/rotrex supercharger set-up on it.

Denny
05-17-2012, 10:06 PM
I wouldn't put this turbo on the 2.8, the manifold and turbo are ebay junk. The 2.8 is going to be sitting around 9.8:1 compression so if/when I get bored of driving it n/a I'll probably end up doing a custom, low boost (8-9psi) vortex/paxton/rotrex supercharger set-up on it.

I would not mind using that manifold and turbo to start building the turbo side on my twincharge system. Forget the centrifugal.. I was dissapointed when I installed a 4000$ Active Rotrex on my E46 rotrex what you want is a Roots type I just so happen to have a M90 from a 3.8L thunderbird..*th-up*

...you up for the challenge? It wont be easy..but I know your capable of doing it. I'm having some serious fun with my Supercharged M20 right now!! even at low boost its quite impressive and I still got some tuning to do on it.

Bullet Ride
05-18-2012, 09:13 AM
I would not mind using that manifold and turbo to start building the turbo side on my twincharge system. Forget the centrifugal.. I was dissapointed when I installed a 4000$ Active Rotrex on my E46 rotrex what you want is a Roots type I just so happen to have a M90 from a 3.8L thunderbird..*th-up*

...you up for the challenge? It wont be easy..but I know your capable of doing it. I'm having some serious fun with my Supercharged M20 right now!! even at low boost its quite impressive and I still got some tuning to do on it.

I agree that positive displacement is the way to go. I like centrifugal because in my mind I feel like it will be easier to package lol, but if I were to go with a positive displacement style unit I'd probably go for a twin screw over a roots type.

Denny
05-18-2012, 10:03 AM
I agree that positive displacement is the way to go. I like centrifugal because in my mind I feel like it will be easier to package lol, but if I were to go with a positive displacement style unit I'd probably go for a twin screw over a roots type.

me too just dont have the money,..:(