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faiz
02-07-2010, 10:03 AM
I have corrosion on the bottom of my doors and looking for a good body shop that know how to do a clean job without havig to look at the work and having doubts wondering if they used the right type of paint, primer, rust protection etc.

Can anyone tell me what needs to get done to make sure a proper job is done and knowing what to look for in a body shop for the skills and knowledge needed to get the job done right the first time. 2001 BMW 740 IL

740-iLL
02-07-2010, 11:41 AM
This is a common problem with the E38's.

The drainage system brings water to the drain at the bottom of the doors, but the water does not exit properly, it sits there. Which causes the corrosion or rust.

Any good body shop can remove it for you, but there is no one that can guarantee it won't come back. The only guarantee is to swap the entire door with new ones that are not corroded.

They say it is like cancer, it could come back. I had all 4 of my doors fixed last summer when I did a full repaint, and since have not brought her out for the winter at all, in the hopes to keep her away from the salt as long as possible.

Dammerung
02-07-2010, 01:04 PM
This is a common problem with the E38's.

The drainage system brings water to the drain at the bottom of the doors, but the water does not exit properly, it sits there. Which causes the corrosion or rust.

Any good body shop can remove it for you, but there is no one that can guarantee it won't come back. The only guarantee is to swap the entire door with new ones that are not corroded.

They say it is like cancer, it could come back. I had all 4 of my doors fixed last summer when I did a full repaint, and since have not brought her out for the winter at all, in the hopes to keep her away from the salt as long as possible.





that worries me....is there any way to check it if there is rust there. My doors look fine. I dont see any bubbles etc on the doors or the side skirts. I wash it everytime i take it out in winter...but still u never know.

faiz
02-07-2010, 06:04 PM
Do you have any recommendations regarding any particular body shops Mr. 740-iLL? What did you look for when you had it repainted and that the rust protection primer ...etc was done?

740-iLL
02-09-2010, 10:23 AM
Do you have any recommendations regarding any particular body shops Mr. 740-iLL? What did you look for when you had it repainted and that the rust protection primer ...etc was done?

European Autobody does an excellent job. May cost a little more $ than the competition, but you get a quality job from them.

@Dammerung, open your door and look at the seam of the outside metal and the inside metal along the bottom of your door. If you do not see and brown/rusty colour, you should be fine. For now.

faiz
02-09-2010, 10:59 AM
I looked them up and gave a call. They gave me a rough quote for just painting the panels without the rust fix and its pricey. I'll swing by to get a quote but need to digest it first. The website shows alot of high end cars so I'll see what they say.

Dammerung
02-09-2010, 02:49 PM
European Autobody does an excellent job. May cost a little more $ than the competition, but you get a quality job from them.

@Dammerung, open your door and look at the seam of the outside metal and the inside metal along the bottom of your door. If you do not see and brown/rusty colour, you should be fine. For now.


Im good then. Just to double check..its basically the lower sead of the door it self and not the part right above the skirt. Well i dont see anything on the doors or the part next to the bmw individual plates under the door on the frame :)

740-iLL
02-09-2010, 03:08 PM
Im good then. Just to double check..its basically the lower sead of the door it self and not the part right above the skirt. Well i dont see anything on the doors or the part next to the bmw individual plates under the door on the frame :)

The piece that is right above the side skirt, at the bottom of the door, is the drain where the water sits. So yes, that is the location where the rust, if any, would start.

Do you have your build sheet for your Individual? I would love to see what goodies you got.

Dammerung
02-09-2010, 03:11 PM
The piece that is right above the side skirt, at the bottom of the door, is the drain where the water sits. So yes, that is the location where the rust, if any, would start.

Do you have your build sheet for your Individual? I would love to see what goodies you got.


Nope i dont have the build sheet...come to think of it im not sure if its says individual there at all lol...

careless7
02-09-2010, 03:56 PM
Talk to Rich at Atlantic Autobody in Etobicoke his prices have always been amazing and the work is even better.

Yeah, if you have a 740 and drive it in winter, likely you have it lurking in there somewhere because it is a design flaw. Of course most of them did not puncture through during the 6yr corrosion warranty, shoulda been 10 yrs if you ask me. But all part of the Quandt master plan to make billions :-p

Dammerung
02-09-2010, 04:13 PM
Wash your cars!!!! :p

740-iLL
02-09-2010, 05:12 PM
Nope i dont have the build sheet...come to think of it im not sure if its says individual there at all lol...

if you post your VIN or the last 7 digits in this forum:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=974206

the OP can email you a complete order sheet for YOUR E38




+1 on washing your cars *th-up*

careless7
02-09-2010, 05:14 PM
Wash your cars!!!! :p

Did you even read the explanation of how the design flaw works? The improper drainage of water is the problem - so in essence washing your car is part of the problem. If anything giving it a bath, or salt bath when it is dirty is the worst.

To drain it, you gotta open the rear doors after you wash it or after heavy rain and watch it pour out.

Ceeker
02-09-2010, 05:56 PM
I have corrosion on the bottom of my doors and looking for a good body shop that know how to do a clean job without havig to look at the work and having doubts wondering if they used the right type of paint, primer, rust protection etc.

Can anyone tell me what needs to get done to make sure a proper job is done and knowing what to look for in a body shop for the skills and knowledge needed to get the job done right the first time. 2001 BMW 740 IL

it can be fixed and it won't come back.....for a while that is. (Grin); two things must be done. one; sand blast or something equivalent besides grinding. Then epoxy the area. I had a body shop do the bottom edge of a door I have - last summer- which had surface rust. I'll see how it looks after this winter. but like mentioned, the surest way is changing the doors.

Once rust starts it can be slowed down alot, but it never sleeps.

Dammerung
02-09-2010, 08:08 PM
Did you even read the explanation of how the design flaw works? The improper drainage of water is the problem - so in essence washing your car is part of the problem. If anything giving it a bath, or salt bath when it is dirty is the worst.

To drain it, you gotta open the rear doors after you wash it or after heavy rain and watch it pour out.


It can be washed properly....all u need is a high pressure hose...i am aware of the problem...wash the car with a high pressure hose along the gap between the side skirts and doors...the high pressure creates a channel of water that takes all the salt out...its not water tht creates the corrosion..its the combination of salt and water....by the way i wasnt referring to your comment otherwise i would have quoted it....i meant it is a good idea to wash the car especially more often when driving in winter....there are other areas such as a pillers and fuel and brake lines that tend to get corroded in these cars aswell...

slemmer
02-10-2010, 12:41 AM
I had a similar problem with my '00 e38 Sport. One Summer day I decided to give my ride a thorough cleaning. I pulled off the bottom moldings only to find bubbling along the bottom seams. I grinded off all the beads to see corrision along the bottom of the seams on 3 of the 4 doors. A couple of doors had to have the beads removed halfway up the doors!.

Took the car to Meadowvale Collision (part of the Atlantic group of companies) and had them do finishing prep, bead, paint. I pass by this palce everyday. Carstar and European wanted a lot of money for the work which I couldn't justify. Once I got the car back it gets Winter stored after an annual oil spray to keep corrosion at bay.

It's been four years since I had the repair done and so far so good. No more reappearance of the cancer.

faiz
02-10-2010, 01:18 AM
That sounds like what I'm looking for. Did you drive it in winter?

slemmer
02-10-2010, 01:21 AM
Not since I had the repair done. I've got another ride that's made for the Winter. I don't even take it out if it's going to rain (at least avoid as much as possible). Call me overprotective.

Dammerung
02-10-2010, 02:56 AM
Not since I had the repair done. I've got another ride that's made for the Winter. I don't even take it out if it's going to rain (at least avoid as much as possible). Call me overprotective.


Do the mouldings come off easily?

slemmer
02-10-2010, 09:38 AM
Pretty easy. The moldings fit by friction. You'll need to coax the molding off the bottom door's edge. I used a flat screwdriver to get at the top of the molding and a hammer to gently nudge the molding off the panel. To reinstall just line up one corner of the molding and wack it back on with your hand or soft mallet.

I was totally blown away at how much moisture is trapped within the molding. Now I know why the edges would rust out faster since there's no where for the water to drain. I think a better way to reduce the moisture problem is to drill numerous holes along the bottom of the moldings to allow for any moisture to drain away. It won't show since it'll be at the bottom of the door and will be hidden when the door is closed anyways. (I just talked myself into another Spring/Summer project!)

Dammerung
02-10-2010, 09:53 AM
Pretty easy. The moldings fit by friction. You'll need to coax the molding off the bottom door's edge. I used a flat screwdriver to get at the top of the molding and a hammer to gently nudge the molding off the panel. To reinstall just line up one corner of the molding and wack it back on with your hand or soft mallet.

I was totally blown away at how much moisture is trapped within the molding. Now I know why the edges would rust out faster since there's no where for the water to drain. I think a better way to reduce the moisture problem is to drill numerous holes along the bottom of the moldings to allow for any moisture to drain away. It won't show since it'll be at the bottom of the door and will be hidden when the door is closed anyways. (I just talked myself into another Spring/Summer project!)



I have a feeling im going to join you on this project. I have rustophobia...terrible thing i tell ya :D...

Thanks for the instructions. Going to check that asap.

740-iLL
02-10-2010, 11:23 AM
+1 on winter storage and rust proofing after getting the cancer removed!

careless7
02-10-2010, 01:50 PM
It can be washed properly....all u need is a high pressure hose...i am aware of the problem...wash the car with a high pressure hose along the gap between the side skirts and doors...the high pressure creates a channel of water that takes all the salt out...its not water tht creates the corrosion..its the combination of salt and water....by the way i wasnt referring to your comment otherwise i would have quoted it....i meant it is a good idea to wash the car especially more often when driving in winter....there are other areas such as a pillers and fuel and brake lines that tend to get corroded in these cars aswell...

So salt creates rust and washing cars in winter is good...who knew?

E36&8
02-10-2010, 02:41 PM
I have done molding delete, so far the cancer been slown down.
I have always looked for a cure but its been too pricy

Dammerung
02-10-2010, 08:04 PM
So salt creates rust and washing cars in winter is good...who knew?


Washing them MORE OFTEN to get the salt off...and this is in reference to the design flaw...read the whole quote. It was a response to you regarding that washing it will create more problems than when its dry about the 740.

slemmer
02-11-2010, 12:25 AM
For those that drive their e38's all year I think a quarterly removal of the lower molding to wipe down the lower edge is a good thing to do. Also, I've been thinking about pumping a can of rust proofing product like CT's Formula 3000 or the Rust Check stuff inside the drain holes of the doors just so it will provide additional protection in the good and bad weather days. Of course, it's to be sprayed after a few warm dry days to ensure good coverage and spread.

740-iLL
02-11-2010, 02:01 PM
I have done molding delete, so far the cancer been slown down.
I have always looked for a cure but its been too pricy

what is this molding delete you speak of? just took off that piece at the bottom where the water drains so that it just comes out on top of the skirts and out?

E36&8
02-12-2010, 03:34 PM
what is this molding delete you speak of? just took off that piece at the bottom where the water drains so that it just comes out on top of the skirts and out?

yes this will actually let the water to escape.

740-iLL
02-13-2010, 10:42 PM
yes this will actually let the water to escape.

do you have any pics of how this looks with the doors closed?

slemmer
02-14-2010, 02:01 AM
If you leave the moldings off the doors will look weird since they'll be an indentation where the trim would go.

BMW_M_POWER
02-17-2010, 11:53 AM
If you leave the moldings off the doors will look weird since they'll be an indentation where the trim would go.



That is only if you have 2001 LWB with skirts.