PDA

View Full Version : EBC Rotors


drivetolive
01-07-2010, 11:22 AM
Well it's about that time were i'm gonna be having to do a full brake job. I'm stuck between EBC cross-drilled rotors and brembo cross-drilled. I'm set on HAWK pads and depending on which rotors i get, there is about a ~$200-$300price difference.

Anyone use EBC before? Are they any good? Is the $300 price gap justifiable for choosing the brembos over the EBC?

BTW this is for a DD, driven hard often (warped my OEM rotor), probably only gonna see several track/autocrosses in the summer.

Any input would be apperciated.

E30 Girl
01-07-2010, 11:29 AM
I have the full EBC Green kit on my E36 and the EBC Yellow's on the 740sport and I am absolutly in love with them. I would recommend them all the way. Both cars a daily drivers and I also track the E36. At my last track day we had one of thoes temp guages and the EBC's ran WAY colder then anything else similar.

I would recommend getting the full set from EBC they are designed to work together I can get you a copy of an article that was in PAS about the brakes if you like just let me know.

P.S EBC doesn't believe in cross drilled rotors as they crack around the holes and only offer slotted.

careless7
01-07-2010, 11:52 AM
Ya, the Yellow pads are impressive stopping this 4300lb beast. All the stopping power without the dust and noise. They are also coated in a special compound that beds in properly with their black USR rotor. Now bed in process needed...once it wears off, its optimal.

richie_s999
01-07-2010, 12:34 PM
above posts are right....go slotted not cross drilled, drilled will warp and crack, not enough metal to displace the heat, cross drilled are only worth it if its track only, and even then will be changed more often due to cracking and warping

PM'ed you with who to contact for real bremebo rotors !!!

Gamite
01-07-2010, 01:05 PM
Guys, read the topic, he's talking about rotors, not pads.



I had EBC rotors on my E34, they weren't cross drilled, only dimpled. The holes did not go all the way through.

I ran them with hawk HPS for a while, the rotors seemed very durable, did not show any signs of wear for the first 1000km. I had the cadmium dipped versions.

careless7
01-07-2010, 01:45 PM
Guys, read the topic, he's talking about rotors, not pads.

Well it's about that time were i'm gonna be having to do a full brake job....Any input would be apperciated.

I think he's open to suggestions. EBC of course claims the best performance with their pads and rotors...plus the coating on both means no bed-in required.

I've run:
EBC Reds, Greens, Yellows
Hawk HPS and Hawk HP+

All good pads, have to give the edge to Yellows all the performance without the dust and noise.

Gamite
01-07-2010, 02:28 PM
I think he's open to suggestions. EBC of course claims the best performance with their pads and rotors...plus the coating on both means no bed-in required.

I've run:
EBC Reds, Greens, Yellows
Hawk HPS and Hawk HP+

All good pads, have to give the edge to Yellows all the performance without the dust and noise.

he said he's set on hawk pads.

E30 Girl
01-07-2010, 03:49 PM
he said he's set on hawk pads.

What are you his lawyer...lol

I know we both read what he "SAID" but having EBC's on both our car and knowing the owner just though we would throw that information out there. At the end of the day he has to make the decision but atleast now he has all the information.

hustler
01-07-2010, 04:15 PM
Just saying, drilled/slotted/dimpled rotors don't stop any better than regular flat ones.

That being said, they do look bad-ass.

Gamite
01-07-2010, 04:29 PM
What are you his lawyer...lol

I know we both read what he "SAID" but having EBC's on both our car and knowing the owner just though we would throw that information out there. At the end of the day he has to make the decision but atleast now he has all the information.

Hey I'm just stating facts

E30 Girl
01-08-2010, 07:39 AM
Hey I'm just stating facts

Thanks Captin Obvious...LOL :P

Gamite
01-08-2010, 09:04 AM
You're welcome

careless7
01-08-2010, 10:50 AM
Just saying, drilled/slotted/dimpled rotors don't stop any better than regular flat ones.

Yes and no. They stop better during tracking / spirited because they resist fade. Regular blanks will stop the same for the first few stabs but then fall off...so the drilled / slotted stop better for longer.

As for cross-drilled, never again. I should have learned my lesson over the years but I still bought them for looks. I've warped so many and all of them have formed cracks. Even the $400USD/ea 355mm 2-pieces I had formed waves on the surface and hairline cracks.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/Z-Tuned/brake_lo.jpg

richie_s999
01-08-2010, 11:46 AM
wow, its crazy how many people don't understand that cross drilled rotors will crack and warp due to there not being as much metal to diplace the heat when they heat up and cool down, they do stop better, but they wear pads very quickly and crack, which is no problem on a track car, but can get costly for the street when your replacing them more often.

slotted rotors will give you the best of both worlds, and don't cost to much more then blanks, and they displace the gasses and run cooler then blanks, which make for better braking. they also have more metal in them and don't crack as easly as drilled rotors do to heat being displaced through the disk.

both E30girl and Carelees7 have more experience with performance cars and track/driving expereince then most of us can shake a stick at, and when people like them offer advice I listen!!!!

E30 Girl
01-08-2010, 12:05 PM
wow, its crazy how many people don't understand that cross drilled rotors will crack and warp due to there not being as much metal to diplace the heat when they heat up and cool down, they do stop better, but they wear pads very quickly and crack, which is no problem on a track car, but can get costly for the street when your replacing them more often.

slotted rotors will give you the best of both worlds, and don't cost to much more then blanks, and they displace the gasses and run cooler then blanks, which make for better braking. they also have more metal in them and don't crack as easly as drilled rotors do to heat being displaced through the disk.

both E30girl and Carelees7 have more experience with performance cars and track/driving expereince then most of us can shake a stick at, and when people like them offer advice I listen!!!!

Thanks Rich really appreciate that. *th-up*

Stephanie
01-08-2010, 12:59 PM
I had the rotors and the Green Stuff pads on my Civic back in the day... They were awesome and took the insane amount of abuse that I costantly put the car through!! *th-up*

drivetolive
01-08-2010, 04:11 PM
It's weird b/c a friend of mine has brembo cross-drilled and never experienced any cracking or problems (he never tracked the car, however did drive aggressively often).

Thanks for all the helpful info, after all the positive remarks about EBC I'm definitly gonna go with them and save the $300. Guess the general consensus is to go with the EBC rotors over the HAWKS eh (lol great, I'll be able to save more money).

Really apperciate all the replies *th-up*

King Luis
01-08-2010, 04:45 PM
tracking is much harder on brakes then driving aggressive.

i say solid rotors and get the ebc's. the brembo's might be stronger or better (????) but if the chances of them both warping, you might as well save the cash to have it ready to buy new rotors incase you warp those too.

btw, i have solid oem on my car and after a bunch of track days and being really hard on the brakes, i've never had my rotors warp on me. oh, and my car is a DD.
when your on the track or just when your driving, remember not to brake while your turning, that might be the reason why your warping those rotors.

drivetolive
01-08-2010, 05:52 PM
It was odd that only my front passenger side rotor warped. Than again these pads/rotors are about 3-4 years old with about 40, 000 km on them.

drivetolive
01-08-2010, 06:50 PM
I have the full EBC Green kit on my E36 and the EBC Yellow's on the 740sport and I am absolutly in love with them. I would recommend them all the way. Both cars a daily drivers and I also track the E36. At my last track day we had one of thoes temp guages and the EBC's ran WAY colder then anything else similar.

I would recommend getting the full set from EBC they are designed to work together I can get you a copy of an article that was in PAS about the brakes if you like just let me know.

P.S EBC doesn't believe in cross drilled rotors as they crack around the holes and only offer slotted.

O sorry forgot to ask, mind sending that article please?

ScotcH
01-08-2010, 07:14 PM
Yes and no. They stop better during tracking / spirited because they resist fade. Regular blanks will stop the same for the first few stabs but then fall off...so the drilled / slotted stop better for longer.



Absolutely wrong and backwards *no-no*

Everything else being euqal, blanks resist fade better since they have more mass (ie, bigger heat sink). Crossdrilled are a looks only, period. Any race rotors you'll find will be slotted in some way ... this can help to "clean" the pads ... also wears them a bit quicker, for track that's not really a concern.

Drilled is shit, unless it's cast with the holes already in it ... even then, pretty usless. Go blank or slotted.

richie_s999
01-08-2010, 08:59 PM
It was odd that only my front passenger side rotor warped. Than again these pads/rotors are about 3-4 years old with about 40, 000 km on them.

Caliper sliders might not be moving well on one side. When you do your brakes clean and lube the sliders. Most over looked thing when doing brakes on your own.

Mikeee46coup
01-08-2010, 09:01 PM
I've run EBC (warped even after proper bed in procedure), KVR's (have a stupid coating on face of rotors that screw up pads) and Stoptech rotors on my lil 323ci, Stoptech (Centric) are by far the best in my opinion. I've got about 80,000km on my current cross drilled set up and the hats which are factory coated black show no signs of rust, lots of meat left. I'd bet they last 140k. Modbargains has 'em priced great too.

craz azn
01-08-2010, 09:04 PM
Absolutely wrong and backwards *no-no*

Everything else being euqal, blanks resist fade better since they have more mass (ie, bigger heat sink). Crossdrilled are a looks only, period. Any race rotors you'll find will be slotted in some way ... this can help to "clean" the pads ... also wears them a bit quicker, for track that's not really a concern.

Drilled is shit, unless it's cast with the holes already in it ... even then, pretty usless. Go blank or slotted.

+1. Very accurate post IMO.

I used to get lots of buildup at the track on my rotors... made them shake like a bitch after only half a day at the track! I then switched to Slotted rotors, made so much difference... hardly any gunk on the rotors from the pad material. They are a slight bit noisier on the street, but that is barely noticeable.

328is
01-09-2010, 08:04 AM
it's weird, i've changed my original brake (pagid pads + brembo rotor) to EBC sloted and dimple rotor and hawk HPS pads and even after proper bed in, i find them to brake less than the original. But i've put about 1000km on them and no track day

ScotcH
01-09-2010, 02:07 PM
Guys .... rotors almost NEVER warp. What you're experiencing is uneven pad deposits. A good rebedding can cure it, sometimes a light sanding then rebed, or in severe cases, you need to turn them. Also, swapping is some super agressive track pads will usually bring the shine back :)