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View Full Version : My E30 M20 turbo writeup (lots of pics)


ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:26 PM
This project has been in the back of mind for a few years now, and at the end of last summer I pulled the trigger and started to collect all the necessary bits and pieces to build a solid E30 M20B25 turbo. With so much documentation and experience out there it wasnít that difficult to figure out what I wanted and how to get it. I want this write-up to be an overview of the whole project, and Iíll describe what I think are important points. If there are any questions, just ask! This is my first attempt at a turbo, so there were definitely some good learning experiences here for me.

The victim for this undertaking is an í86 325, with an existing M20B25 swap and CatCam 283 (which was installed a few years ago).

The goals of this project are:
- ~300+ whp
- ~1 bar boost
- Driveable through town
- Easily serviceable
- Reliable (?)
- Less than $3000 (total)

This car is a secondary vehicle, so I was able to pull it off the road and have it in a non-running state for as long as necessary.

Letís start off with an overview of the components:
- Holset HX35w turbo
- Megasquirt 2 + extra
- 42lb Lucas injectors
- Homebuilt turbo manifold adapter
- Homebuilt full 3Ē mandrel-bent exhaust
- 25x12x3Ē Ebay intercooler + plumbing (2.5Ē)
- Tial 38mm wastegate
- Single Magnaflow muffler
- Dual Bosch diverter valves
- ARP head studs, stock cylinder head gasket
- Homebuilt MBC


The poor, unsuspecting bronzit:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_0509.jpg



Since a major factor with this project is cost, the obvious answer for engine management is a Megasquirt ECU. I decided to go with the MSII with the extra code to have the ďbest-of-the-worstĒ hardware/software to work with. They are pretty straight-forward to assemble and use. Patience is important to reduce the amount of debugging youíll need to go through in the likely event that problems arise.

Starting with the assembly of the MS:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_1953.jpg


Assembled MS with auxiliary Glenís Garage pwm/ignition board

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_1959.jpg


Modifications to the stock wiring harness:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_1957.jpg


The injectors are 42lb/hr, made by Lucas/Delphi. They are a standard size, so they fit into the stock manifold and fuel rail, with the same connectors.
42lb Lucas/Delphi injectors:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_1965.jpg


The ARP studs were another easy choice, being the most widely used and reasonably priced. The head gasket was replaced not too long ago, so I trusted it and didnít want to go through the additional hassle of pulling the head to install the studs. Iíve heard of several people using the stock gasket without issues, so this was what I decided to go with. I loosened off all the stock bolts gradually and evenly, and then pulled them one by one and replaced them with the studs, then followed the torque spec for installation.
ARP studs:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2081.jpg


Installed without removing the head and using the stock gasket:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2099.jpg


Beginning of the turbo manifold adapter. I bought an extra set of stock manifolds so I could use two of the same (seemed to be easier plumbing). The material is SCH40 mild steel (heavy as hell). I made all of the flanges myself to help minimize costs. The manifold only required a total of 4 bends and some straight section. Itís a fully divided manifold to mate up to the T3 flange I made.

Flange:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2179.jpg


Preliminary mock-up of manifold:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2197.jpg


Seems to be a pretty straight shot:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2198.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:26 PM
Positioning in the engine bay:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2199.jpg


Fully welded:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2232.jpg


With turbo:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2251.jpg


It’s close!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2233.jpg


Run-of-the-mill Tial 38mm wastegate:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2170.jpg


Muffler (single 3” in/out):

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2059.jpg


Some of the exhaust piping. 3” mandrel-bent, and it’s galvanized (for corrosion protection). It’s easy to weld, but you just need to be careful of the galvanized coating (inhaling the fumes can make you really sick).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2227.jpg


Down-pipe fabrication. A 6” long flexpipe is used to isolate the exhaust from the turbo+manifold:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2298.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2302.jpg


In the engine bay:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2300.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:27 PM
Muffler mock-up:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2247.jpg


Exhaust/muffler welding:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2305.jpg


V-band flanges I made:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2334.jpg


Consists of male/female halves to aid with centering and sealing:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2335.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2336.jpg


Manifold modifications for wastegate plumbing:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2314.jpg


Sketchy setup for facing a badly warped turbo flange (about 25 thou out of plane):

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2318.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2319.jpg


Pressure testing the manifold (up to 30psi). Aluminum plates with rubber gaskets to seal it off. Used a quick-disconnect air fitting to plumb into the shop’s air supply, and also mounted a pressure gauge to see if it leaks. Divided wastegate plumbing installed:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2354.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2355.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:27 PM
WG dump tube routing. Didn’t have any bent tube so I had to make my own “bends”:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2363.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2361.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2362.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2381.jpg


Downpipe exit. Runs up right beside the CAB and is pretty tight to the body:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2368.jpg


Rest of exhaust. It was tucked as close to the body as possible for ground clearance purposes. I used all of the stock mounting points for hanging it, and had it run down the centerline of the car to use the existing heat-shielding. Very simple and I’m very pleased with how it turned out.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2337.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2338.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2339.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2341.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2347.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:28 PM
Intercooler and plumbing (Ebay brand). Nicely packaged and it all seems to work:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2060.jpg


Intercooler mock-up. I wanted to run the in/out tubes beneath the headlights to make plumbing as simple (and straight) as possible. The 2.5” tube is very tight between the frame and headlight buckets.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2062.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2063.jpg


Had to notch some of the lower rad-support for clearance. None of the frame rails were modified. I also cut out a bit of the valence to increase airflow to the upper parts of the IC.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2064.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2066.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2070.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2401.jpg


Intercooler and oil cooler mounted. I used a simple 3/4” square tube for support. The oil cooler is also mounted to tabs on this tube. The IC is supported at the bottom by small tabs welded to the chassis.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2266.jpg


TPS and IAT. The TPS is the typical unit from the E36 and others. Part number: 13 63 1 726 591
The IAT is a standard GM unit, bought from DIYautotune. I wanted to mount the IAT as close as possible to the engine, without having to deal with welding into the charge piping. This was an obvious solution. Drill + tap (and also machined it down a bit):

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2087.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2088.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:28 PM
Had to rework the TPS adapter afterwards due to interference with the manifold:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2108.jpg


The intake plumbing was fairly straight forward, using a minimal amount of tubes/couplings.
Bought a big, honkin’ 3”-4” adapter for the compressor inlet. Used an existing 3” K&N intake I had lying around for the pre-turbo part of it. Also built a shield around the filter to prevent road debris, but still allow adequate airflow and drainage in the event that water starts pooling there.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2194.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2269.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2270.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2351.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2578.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2577.jpg


Had to notch some of the headlight bucket for it to fit properly. I was able to run the 2.5” tube under the headlights, although it’s a bit tight. 3” would be very difficult.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2264.jpg


Some welded tubes to make life a bit easier/cleaner. You can see one of the flanges welded on for the DV.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2225.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:29 PM
General shots of the intake system.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2228.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2229.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2230.jpg


The oil system on this car was a bit of a hassle, but I was able to get through it all. I wanted to use the stock oil cooler housing (with thermostat) and not have to deal with relocating it (more plumbing, more mess, more chance for something to leak). I made an inline adapter that goes between the cooler housing and the oil filter. It has ports for the turbo oil feed and an oil pressure sender. I also tapped the housing bolt for an oil temperature sensor.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2091.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2047.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2048.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2049.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2050.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2052.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2072.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:29 PM
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2089.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2110.jpg


The unfortunate part about that piece is that the threads on both ends need to be different, which makes life a bit more complicated.
The oil cooler is B&M unit purchased through Summit. When installing the AN-to-NPT fittings onto the cooler you need to use LOTS of Teflon tape. I had to remove the fittings at one point, and the fittings galled the tapped holes in the cooler and stripped out most of the threads. It has been patched with JB weld and is still holding (thankfully).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2054.jpg


For the turbo drain, I milled a flat section on the side of the oil pan and drilled through for a 90 degree bulkhead fitting. Nuts were used on both sides and good quality RTV used for sealing.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2253.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2254.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2256.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2267.jpg


I also installed a new oil pump while the pan was off (and the old one was VERY rough).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2258.jpg


For removing and installing the oil pan, I needed to lift the engine a bit for clearance issues. I don’t own an engine lift, so I built my own device for lifting the engine. It straddles the engine bay and sits on the frame rails. A large threaded rod with a fastener on one end is attached to the engine lift point at the front, and then it is lifted by turning the nut on the threaded rod. Worked pretty well, although it was still a bit of a pain putting everything back together under there…

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2237.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:30 PM
The plumbing for the oil cooler and drain was fairly straight forward. Just connect the dots.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2345.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2346.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2372.jpg


I bought some necessary gauges for monitoring the oil system and boost pressure. Oil pressure, oil temperature, and boost. All VDO Vision gauges. There’s also an additional wideband AFR gauge from Innovate. I cut a hole in the center console where the radio and OBC were located (shouldn’t be needing those anymore…), and replaced it with an aluminum sheet with holes for all the gauges.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2056.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2343.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2344.jpg


A new MAP distribution block that will feed the ECU, FPR, WG, DVs, and boost gauge.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2212.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2213.jpg


Taking hints from some high-end turbo engines, I wanted to build some bracing for the turbo to reduce the stress on the manifold. This is what I’m trying to copy:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/DSC03780.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:30 PM
Mine is bolted to the valve cover with 3 of the studs, and extends over the down pipe and bolts to the turbine outlet flange with 2 rod ends (of opposite thread) to create a turnbuckle system for tensioning.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2250.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2252.jpg


The final touch on the exhaust system was having all of the manifold components and downpipe ceramic coated. For people in the GTA, my buddy gives good rates for ceramic and powder coating. Company name is Afterburner Performance Coatings. PM me for details….
Bling bling!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2501.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2502.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2559.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2560.jpg


I built a simple heat shield for the turbine out of sheet aluminum. In an attempt to save what little paint I have left on the hood…

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2596.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2597.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2599.jpg


Everything all packed up in the front. Wish I had a bit more obvious airflow to the IC, but we’ll see how it works for now.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2587.jpg

ryan_george
08-06-2009, 07:31 PM
Driving:

How to describe the car: This thing is nuts. (as many of you already experience daily). I’ve never been in something with this much ass-kicking torque before. It’s a new experience and I’m hooked…
The MS tuning is still a work in progress, but it’s coming along reasonably smoothly. The car can spin the wheels on a roll in 2nd, but unfortunately the clutch starts slipping in 3rd (duh….). I can reach full boost (1 bar) by 4500rpm. I’ve got a new Stage 4 clutch in the mail from South Bend and will update when that gets installed. Once my fueling is sorted out, I’ll spend a few hours on a dyno to get the ignition maps finalized (and get some whp numbers!).
Videos will also start showing up once this car is “legal” and insured.
There will also be some updates to this as new things progress (ie. Clutch, new differential, updated cooling system, brakes, etc….)

BMW BMXer
08-06-2009, 09:40 PM
Holy shit dude.

Way to keep quiet then come out with the ****ing heat. Nice build.

Bullet Ride
08-06-2009, 11:30 PM
Super clean build!
Did you end up staying under $3000?

Axxe
08-06-2009, 11:38 PM
Nice build!

ryan_george
08-07-2009, 12:21 AM
I didn't want to post an "in-progress" build thread, because sometimes progress was slow.... Figure I could get it all done in one shot.

I didn't make it under my $3000 budget. It was a lot closer to $4000, which isn't bad I suppose.

Insurance has just been sorted out, gotta get the car safetied on Monday, install the new clutch that's waiting for me, and then we're done! (for now...)

Bullet Ride
08-07-2009, 08:36 AM
$4000 isn't bad at all.
So are you boosting on stock compression? You didn't pull the engine, and you are running a stock head gasket so I'm assuming it's a stock compression motor.

MiroE36
08-07-2009, 10:06 AM
mad props on the work and write up! truly inspiring to try this myself

ryan_george
08-07-2009, 11:23 AM
$4000 isn't bad at all.
So are you boosting on stock compression? You didn't pull the engine, and you are running a stock head gasket so I'm assuming it's a stock compression motor.

Essentially the motor is stock, internally (although there is a new cam in there). Stock HG, stock C/R, ARP studs.

black bnr32
08-07-2009, 02:48 PM
I really like the oil cooler system set up.

And its about time a good turbo build thread came up. The FI forum has sucked balls lately.

everlast
08-08-2009, 11:59 PM
Awesome job dude.

Denny
08-09-2009, 11:03 PM
WOW!! I have seen some very smart people at work doing DIY turbo's before but this...am speechless !!

congrats :) Are you close to Ottawa I want to see this...

ryan_george
08-12-2009, 10:49 AM
Thanks for the comments guys.

Time for some updates.

Removing that tranny was a pain.... Never had to do that before while the engine was still installed....

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2600.jpg


Old clutch. Replaced 50k kms ago. Anyone need one?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2603.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2604.jpg


Flywheel still looks perfect. Resurfaced/lightened 50k ago.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2607.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2606.jpg


New clutch installed (South Bend stage 4).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y295/ryan_george/turbo/IMG_2608.jpg


Clutch Review

This this is awesome. It feels exactly like stock. Same pedal force, same engagement (ie, not that grippy and no chatter), although it holds everything I've thrown at it. It's the same price as the TCD/UUC one, but I feel it has none of the disadvantages associated with it (although I've never driven one before, only word of mouth). Purchased through a vendor on Bimmerforums (screen name: JordanMD88).

I'd recommend this clutch to anyone.



Ohh.... I'm still working on vids! 3rd gear pulls are awesome now :D

black bnr32
08-12-2009, 03:46 PM
Am I ever glad I chose not to do my own clutch swap. Those upper tranny bolts make me cringe.

Tom
08-12-2009, 08:50 PM
hey nice setup/sleeper ride dude, I love custom work like this! If you ever have time to meetup id like to check this out in person... I also live in waterloo and have a supercharged ride but not turbo : ( sounds like you need a LSD :p

pm me if you want to Ill toss you my number!

ryan_george
08-12-2009, 09:06 PM
Am I ever glad I chose not to do my own clutch swap. Those upper tranny bolts make me cringe.

They were a pain. But I was able to remove everything by myself. It involved tilting the engine/trans down until the cylinder head was touching the firewall, then unbolting one of the engine mounts and lowering everything down even more...

But I'm broke, so I don't have a lot of options :D

ryan_george
08-12-2009, 09:07 PM
hey nice setup/sleeper ride dude, I love custom work like this! If you ever have time to meetup id like to check this out in person... I also live in waterloo and have a supercharged ride but not turbo : ( sounds like you need a LSD :p

pm me if you want to Ill toss you my number!

I'm busy for the next few weeks, but sometime in september would be best. Are there any organized meets in the KW area? I gotta start going out to some...

NOTORIOUS VR
09-04-2009, 10:56 AM
Awesome DIY build!!!

I'm trying to get my buddy to put a tranny into his turbo E30 (he blew it up after almost 2 years of beating on it with 400whp).

Once you get everything sorted, turn up the boost a little :P... 350-380whp isn't an issue on the stock motor with a good tune....

Just a question, you didn't mention it but it's a common thing to do when boosting an M20.. did you happen to get the coolant channels welded on the head? It's something I would highly recommend doing eventually if you haven't done so yet.

ryan_george
09-04-2009, 11:23 AM
Awesome DIY build!!!

I'm trying to get my buddy to put a tranny into his turbo E30 (he blew it up after almost 2 years of beating on it with 400whp).

Once you get everything sorted, turn up the boost a little :P... 350-380whp isn't an issue on the stock motor with a good tune....

Just a question, you didn't mention it but it's a common thing to do when boosting an M20.. did you happen to get the coolant channels welded on the head? It's something I would highly recommend doing eventually if you haven't done so yet.

Thanks!

Still working on the tune. Street tuning is fairly difficult, although I'm going to try to get the fueling all sorted out on the street, then spend some time on a dyno to finalize the ignition.

I didn't weld the coolant channels on the head. I figure when I blow a HG next, that will be one of the things to take care of.

NOTORIOUS VR
09-04-2009, 12:34 PM
Thanks!

Still working on the tune. Street tuning is fairly difficult, although I'm going to try to get the fueling all sorted out on the street, then spend some time on a dyno to finalize the ignition.

I didn't weld the coolant channels on the head. I figure when I blow a HG next, that will be one of the things to take care of.

Street tuning the car is one of the best things you can do IMO it allows you to get the driveability of the car almost perfect.

Good luck with your project! Let's see some dyno sheets soon *th-up*

JINT
10-24-2009, 04:29 PM
wow man, awesome build, seems VERY ligit.

HavocSteve
05-04-2010, 04:42 PM
How long did this build take? That engine looks killer and probably scares most people because the car looks stock. Gotta love a sleeper! Pull up to a punk in a honda and just leave him some tread marks lol.

ryan_george
05-05-2010, 01:26 PM
How long did this build take? That engine looks killer and probably scares most people because the car looks stock. Gotta love a sleeper! Pull up to a punk in a honda and just leave him some tread marks lol.

I'd say it probably took about a year from start to finish. However, I was only working on this a few weekends a month. It wasn't a full-time project.

I've just installed a 3.25:1 LSD and I finally have traction! It's a thing of beauty...

HavocSteve
05-05-2010, 05:25 PM
Very nice. Also that time frame doesn't seem to long if you only did some weekend jobs to her. Amazing custom fab. work though.

That Hofset turbo is for a cummins engine? I was looking it up on ebay ect.. and it always says cummins. I might get some parts gathered but the turbo I don't want to mess it up.

Also, did you end up getting some new paint and tires and make her look all pretty? If so it would be nice to see the "final" result!

NOTORIOUS VR
05-05-2010, 10:04 PM
I'd say it probably took about a year from start to finish. However, I was only working on this a few weekends a month. It wasn't a full-time project.

I've just installed a 3.25:1 LSD and I finally have traction! It's a thing of beauty...

what is that diff out of?

e30_kid89
05-06-2010, 01:45 AM
e28 e34 535i 635i 533 633...One of those..

ryan_george
05-06-2010, 12:04 PM
Very nice. Also that time frame doesn't seem to long if you only did some weekend jobs to her. Amazing custom fab. work though.

That Hofset turbo is for a cummins engine? I was looking it up on ebay ect.. and it always says cummins. I might get some parts gathered but the turbo I don't want to mess it up.

Also, did you end up getting some new paint and tires and make her look all pretty? If so it would be nice to see the "final" result!

Yes, Holset turbos are used on Cummins diesels. There's a lot more discussion and implementation available at e30tech.com.

I've got some new tires to replace the balding ones, but I'm still looking for something a little better. And new paint is over-rated :cool:

ryan_george
05-06-2010, 12:06 PM
e28 e34 535i 635i 533 633...One of those..

Correct, the diff is from something like this... Not sure exactly what it came off, though.

everlast
05-11-2010, 12:44 PM
Yes, Holset turbos are used on Cummins diesels. There's a lot more discussion and implementation available at e30tech.com.

I've got some new tires to replace the balding ones, but I'm still looking for something a little better. And new paint is over-rated :cool:

I just got some Dunlop Direzza Z1 Stars in 215/45R17. They're not horribly expensive (they're not cheap though) and took them to the local track yesterday. They are phenomenal.

DIY
08-25-2010, 02:12 AM
I got a turbo out of a Mazdaspeed 3 i'm thinking about doin something similar, the turbo was designed to run 1 Bar... The work you put in is awesome! are you using 1 bar of boost? Did you have any problems with the MegaSquirt? Was it easy enough to configure?

If you want tires buy em off Tire Rack and get them installed in Buffalo their dirt cheap! 114 ea for Direzza Z1 Star Spec... bring a girl along and say she went shopping, usually works at the boarder..

ryan_george
08-25-2010, 01:30 PM
I got a turbo out of a Mazdaspeed 3 i'm thinking about doin something similar, the turbo was designed to run 1 Bar... The work you put in is awesome! are you using 1 bar of boost? Did you have any problems with the MegaSquirt? Was it easy enough to configure?

If you want tires buy em off Tire Rack and get them installed in Buffalo their dirt cheap! 114 ea for Direzza Z1 Star Spec... bring a girl along and say she went shopping, usually works at the boarder..

I think that turbo will be too small for an M20. I'm no expert, but that's my gut feeling.
Yes, I'm running about 1 bar. Megasquirt takes a bit to set up and configure, but it's fairly straight forward once you're running. Just need to be careful while tuning so you don't damage the engine. Pay attention to your gauges!

I actually get quite a bit of stuff shipped to the boarder. I'm well versed with that technique *th-up*

NOTORIOUS VR
09-24-2010, 04:26 PM
yes that turbo will be too small for the M20. Especially @ 1 BAR.


e28 e34 535i 635i 533 633...One of those..

thank you sir! *th-up*

Pauljiwanram
05-07-2012, 11:19 AM
I'd say it probably took about a year from start to finish. However, I was only working on this a few weekends a month. It wasn't a full-time project.

I've just installed a 3.25:1 LSD and I finally have traction! It's a thing of beauty...



Hi Could you tell me if the LSD was a direct bolt on or you had to modify

Thanks
Paul*rockout*

ryan_george
05-07-2012, 11:28 AM
Hi Could you tell me if the LSD was a direct bolt on or you had to modify

Thanks
Paul*rockout*

I bought an entire differential out of an E28, so it was more or less a direct bolt on. You will want to have an E30 differential handy so that you can swap the back cover and also the stub shafts into the new one.

davericher20
05-07-2012, 01:01 PM
Holy thread revival! You gave me and Steve a ride in this car after one of the meets in Cambridge at the Old timmies location a couple years ago. Thing was a monster!

ANy vids? Updates?

Bullet Ride
05-07-2012, 01:07 PM
Holy thread revival! You gave me and Steve a ride in this car after one of the meets in Cambridge at the Old timmies location a couple years ago. Thing was a monster!

ANy vids? Updates?

Yeah, the thing definitely kicked hard.

I'm getting plates for my one this week *th-up*

ryan_george
05-07-2012, 01:31 PM
No updates really. Car projects have been put on the back-burner, but I'm getting it out of hibernation mode this week hopefully. Still haven't got around to getting on a dyno, either. Anyone know of a good one in the area to spend a few hours tuning?

InfiniteDice
05-07-2012, 01:57 PM
I like the heat shield idea. Good job!

One problem you might have is with the exhaust. Seems like it could hit if you are lowered. I've had to have mine re-adjusted and welded up higher already, as I was clipping everying with my resonator. You don't have a resonator so maybe you'll be alright.

My old 2.7i had no resonator and on long drives I'd be deaf. This time I put a nice resonator on and it sounds nice out the back but you don't need to scrape your eardrums off the floor with a spatula afterwards.

ryan_george
05-07-2012, 02:02 PM
I like the heat shield idea. Good job!

One problem you might have is with the exhaust. Seems like it could hit if you are lowered. I've had to have mine re-adjusted and welded up higher already, as I was clipping everying with my resonator.

The car is slightly lowered and I have never had an issue. The only time I've hit bottom is going to the cottage on an extremely bumpy and unmaintained road.

traffik
05-08-2012, 12:06 PM
Hey very nice build, very clean and almost looking stock like. Have you tuned this car yet? how mush boost are you running? If I can give you a little advice, you might run into boost drop off problems with the way you have the wastegate setup. The angle of the wastegate will cause more exhaust gasses to bypass the turbo then normal. A wastegate should be plummed in horizontally not vertically. This is just food for thought. But i like your setup~!

ryan_george
05-08-2012, 12:48 PM
Hey very nice build, very clean and almost looking stock like. Have you tuned this car yet? how mush boost are you running? If I can give you a little advice, you might run into boost drop off problems with the way you have the wastegate setup. The angle of the wastegate will cause more exhaust gasses to bypass the turbo then normal. A wastegate should be plummed in horizontally not vertically. This is just food for thought. But i like your setup~!

It's 95% tuned, like I mentioned before, it hasn't seen a dyno yet. Just street tuning.

Boost is set to 15psi and it holds there very strong. I'm not sure I understand your concerns about the wastegate. Care to elaborate?

Bullet Ride
05-08-2012, 01:16 PM
I believe he's saying that the runner for the waste gate should enter the manifold at more of an angle wrt the exhaust flow so that the exit path is not too direct because in certain circumstances it will cause the boost to drop when the wastegate opens until the system can catch up. Obviously for your current set-up it's not an issue.

traffik
05-08-2012, 03:24 PM
I believe he's saying that the runner for the waste gate should enter the manifold at more of an angle wrt the exhaust flow so that the exit path is not too direct because in certain circumstances it will cause the boost to drop when the wastegate opens until the system can catch up. Obviously for your current set-up it's not an issue.

Yes Bullet ride, That is absolutely correct, A wastegate is used to control boost pressure in turbocharged engines. The waste gate is a valve that bypasses exhaust gas around the turbine wheel of the turbocharger. It is the flow of exhaust gas that causes the turbo to spin which produces boost pressure. In a simplified view, the more exhaust gas the higher the boost pressure. The waste gate opens to vary the amount of exhaust gas that reaches the turbo, which controls the turbo speed and hence the boost pressure. If the wastegate is in the direct path of the exhaust flow then it will possably allow less exhaust gasses into the turbo and more out of the waste gate, which will cause the boost to drop off after the wastegate opens fully. I hope this helps.

everlast
05-08-2012, 03:29 PM
Not that I know any better, but if that happened wouldn't the signal to the WG drop, causing it to partially close thus causing boost to build back up again and finally reach an equilibrium?

ryan_george
05-08-2012, 03:37 PM
Yes Bullet ride, That is absolutely correct, A wastegate is used to control boost pressure in turbocharged engines. The waste gate is a valve that bypasses exhaust gas around the turbine wheel of the turbocharger. It is the flow of exhaust gas that causes the turbo to spin which produces boost pressure. In a simplified view, the more exhaust gas the higher the boost pressure. The waste gate opens to vary the amount of exhaust gas that reaches the turbo, which controls the turbo speed and hence the boost pressure. If the wastegate is in the direct path of the exhaust flow then it will possably allow less exhaust gasses into the turbo and more out of the waste gate, which will cause the boost to drop off after the wastegate opens fully. I hope this helps.


But on the other hand, you want a very clean path to the wastegate to prevent over boosting. And the wastegate (at least this one) isn't like an on/off switch. As the boost level is approached it will start to crack open and slightly bleed off pressure. As more boost continues to build it will open further, etc etc. I understand your concern but this is a fairly small wastegate and it's not an issue at all for this application.


Not that I know any better, but if that happened wouldn't the signal to the WG drop, causing it to partially close thus causing boost to build back up again and finally reach an equilibrium?

My thoughts as well

everlast
05-08-2012, 03:48 PM
Yeah, it's been my understanding that you want to allow the WG gasses the best chance of passing through the WG.

Of course, taken to the extreme this would affect overall turbo efficiency.

That said, my WG at a 90* angle from the turbo inlet. Does seem to work well.

traffik
05-08-2012, 03:54 PM
Not that I know any better, but if that happened wouldn't the signal to the WG drop, causing it to partially close thus causing boost to build back up again and finally reach an equilibrium?

No, It would actually cause boost spike at higher RPM's and or more strain on the motor. I built a nissan 240 for a customer with a RB25 skyline engine and he brought me a manifold that had the same style wastegate design as you made yours. after everything was all together and we were tuning the car on the dyno, everytime we would hit boost it would creep and then drop off after reaching full boost 25psi. took a while to figure it out, but after pressure testing for leaks and changing the wastegate, it still did the same thing. so i desided to take the manifold off cut the wastegate pipe and redesign it. installed the first wastegate tial 44mm and boost no longer creeped or dropped off. it would just go from 0psi straight to 25psi with out a pause. Like i said just food for thought! i only give my input on personal experience.

everlast
05-08-2012, 03:55 PM
Either I'm not understanding, or this doesn't make sense. I don't see how MORE flow to the WG would cause boost spike or strain on the motor.

But, I'm no expert.

SAKE
06-08-2013, 10:34 AM
wow... can you build one for mine?

ThomasK
02-16-2014, 11:45 PM
such a clean build. I haven't quite put away $4k for a project like this yet but i intend to pull of something of this caliber. The megasquirt is the only thing that really intimidates me.

NOTORIOUS VR
02-19-2014, 01:45 PM
Either I'm not understanding, or this doesn't make sense. I don't see how MORE flow to the WG would cause boost spike or strain on the motor.

But, I'm no expert.

It wouldn't.

You want the best/direct path for WG, but you also need to correctly choose the size of the WG for your system.