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View Full Version : Trans output seal replacement. Wow


DR.ZED
04-29-2009, 10:16 PM
I knew I was getting into it with this job. Lets start with why. After 4 lapping days so far this year my rear trans seal is leaking and so is the selector rod seal.

Ordered those as well as trans mounts. Dropped the exhaust which wasn't nearly as bad (with air tools, what did I ever do without those???) as I thought. Every bolt came right off. (Though I ordered 6 new copper ones).

Marked the driveshaft and split it. The rubber coupling was a bit worn and so was the center bearing so I ordered one of each of those as well. Note, you need six new nuts for the trans output flange as they are self locking one time units.

Had a shop press on the new bearing (very easy) which they ended up wacking it on in a vice with a spare piece of exhaust tube. LOL!

Now the fun part! Removing the nut that holds on the flange at the transmission output end. Well... good luck finding a 30mm deep socket THIN wall. I did at Acklands Grainger and now possess this socket! (if anybody else needs).

The trans seal was an easy tap on in various areas with a hammer, but the DAMN selector rod seal!!! Good thing in a rare moment of intelligence I ordered two of them incase I screwed up one? (experience from LT1 water pump output shaft seals).

Tapping in the new seal was a complete PITA and I was way too careful on the first one with a rubber mallet and deep socket the diameter of the seal. The next time I gave it some good wacks with a metal hammer and the same socket so that it wouldn't go in one side first. With a seal that small once that happens you're screwed. Once in the output flange went in with the same hammer tapping each of the three bolts one after the other unit it sat flush. Using some teflon sealer on the threads I put the bolt back on and tightened it.

Installed the rubber coupling and attempted to get the 54 ft lbs the manual suggests. Its a tight squeeze in there and tough to hold the flexible disc without it bending and stressing the rubber on one side.

Then I bolted the center bearing with just enough slack so the bolts would let it slide as I bolted up the flange end not to bind the center bearing. Once all was bolted up the sheetmetal protection pan went back on to cover the driveshaft and then the exhaust.

Smooth as silk driveline now and no transmission fluid leaks.

richie_s999
04-29-2009, 11:24 PM
Good to hear you got it finished you free sunday for the max cruise

adam325i
04-30-2009, 12:05 AM
Good that you didn't run into any major problems. Nice thats its smooth now.

echo
04-30-2009, 07:03 AM
I did the same job last month. I had no problem with the selector shaft, but almost damaged the output shaft seal for similar reasons as you.

I too couldn't find a reasonably priced thin walled 30mm, so I bought a mid-priced deep impact socket and turned the end to make it thin enough. Works perfect.

Pic:

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss23/echothreezero/SC%20Swap%20Day%207/SCInstallDay701.jpg

DR.ZED
04-30-2009, 09:24 AM
I did the same job last month. I had no problem with the selector shaft, but almost damaged the output shaft seal for similar reasons as you.

I too couldn't find a reasonably priced thin walled 30mm, so I bought a mid-priced deep impact socket and turned the end to make it thin enough. Works perfect.

Pic:

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss23/echothreezero/SC%20Swap%20Day%207/SCInstallDay701.jpg


Mine was $22 at Acklands Grainger. They are a cool tool place that caters to the industrial industry yet the public can walk right in. The one I went to is on Philip Murray and Foundry in Whitby.

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/Main/begin.do?language=en

InfiniteDice
04-30-2009, 09:34 AM
Done this a dozen times, lol it's still a fun job angling in that drive shaft; every time it still manages to piss me off.

I made my own socket as well, I even made a tool to remove the center bearing.

I'm gonna do all my seals when I pull the engine, and trans. out, easier to get at.

guibo
04-30-2009, 09:35 AM
another option is a power built tool for gm oil sender units. 1" 3/16" which comes out to 30mm. works perfectly.

i didnt understand the seal problem exactly? you guys had trouble installing the seal back? what advice can you give me before i screw it up?

DR.ZED
04-30-2009, 09:49 AM
I don't believe it... I think I actually have that socket! lol

Careful prying out the seal that you don't scratch the selector rod. If you scratch it, it will tear up the new seal.