View Full Version : Anyone running e28 535i green MM?

04-27-2009, 02:02 PM
Want to do a bmw upgrade on my motor mounts, from all the old sites There were suggestions of what fit. The e36 ones apparently and the 535i from 87. I like the looks of those the best, plus they are cheap.

I'm interested in hearing from those of you who have them on your car, or had them at one point.

I'm also looking at e21 tranny mounts, the stock ones I bought seem too soft.


04-27-2009, 06:26 PM
I've heard of the 5er mounts being used because they're cheaper, and then I hear how they took them out after a year and put proper ones in. The engine feels smoother with the proper mounts. Too much vibration is transfered through the 5er mounts. Figure you're probably never going to change them again, might as well do the job right instead of doing it twice.

04-28-2009, 07:44 AM
Yes I realized there will be more vibration, but anyone running poly ones would have more. Honestly I like the design better, gives the engine less chance to deflect in any direction. They are about the same price as stock e30 ones.

Even e36 mounts look more secure than stock e30.

04-28-2009, 06:10 PM
Just get IE's they aren't that expensive.


04-28-2009, 06:21 PM
Just get AKG softer poly engine mounts :)

04-29-2009, 01:37 PM
Too late, I bought the 535i mounts...

Gotta say these things are built like a ww2 panzer, I can't see these things ever breaking or allowing the engine to shift.

Now that I have them I'll fill you guys in on the details.

05-04-2009, 08:46 AM
Ok did the job Sunday, it was slightly more involving than I thought but turned out as expected!

1) The mounts are about 15mm higher.
2) The bolts on either side are too long.
3) nubs on underside need to be cut off.

I started by loosening the engine mounts on the car, everything was going great till I discovered that someone had welded the old mount top to the engine mount arm (pass. side).

I removed the arm ground off the weld and cleane dup the hole, I then started test fitting the mounts to the arms, I cut off the little nub on the bottom of the new mounts, and cut about 10mm off the tops and bottoms of each bolt (4 on the new mounts).

I had to use 3 old head bolt washers on the topside of each mount as spacers, the bolts on the top have a carrier type bolt without thread.

I popped the drivers side mount in first then mounted up the passenger side, once the bolts were through the engine arms, I put the washers and nuts on and tightened everything down.

Additional Issues:

1) the engine sits about 12mm higher, there is no front-back left-right change.
2) cut away a section of the under hood insulation, just to give extra clearance near the throttle/cruise linkage.
3) the upper rad hose touches the hood insulation I may shorten the hose 5mm to drop it slightly - It may also get a sleeve to prevent rub through.
4) engine is super tight, i can't move it by grabbing it and pulling, just doesn't move.
5) car drives excellent, in fact practically all the driveline vibrations i was having are gone.
6) the afm position moved back 5-8mm I just widened the mounting slots on the car bracket, and put a few larger washers behind the nuts.
7) the fan shroud had to be removed, fan rubs the shroud. Fan has perfect clearance with everything else however so not a large issue, I may just modify the shroud slightly.
8) THE BEST THING. For all you slammed guys out there losing your pans, raises the pan about 12mm. The bottom of my rack now sits lower!!!

Hope this helps all of you considering this swap. The day after I still feel good about it, and I'm sure that feeling won't change. I don't believe I'll ever need to change those mounts.


craz azn
05-04-2009, 11:09 AM
Wouldn't raising the engine put more stress on the transmission mounts and flex disc?

05-04-2009, 11:21 AM
Well assuming that the design allows for some engine deflection and aging mounts. Those mounts I pulled were lopsided and squished down a good 3-5 mm from their original shape. I don't think however that a slight raise or lower of the engine and the tilt would create any imbalance as long as there is clearance all around.

I have new stock mounts, as far as the drive shaft is concerned, it has the 2 universal joints to accommodate for any slight angling. Surely if there was stress I'd feel it. I pushed it hard the other day and no vibrations at all.

The engine might be slightly tilted, but it's not moving much with these monsters in there. They are not as hard as poly mounts however, but the design is much better for handling forward/backward or side to side motion.