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cdb
02-11-2009, 12:23 AM
So I got an issue guys. Basicall anytime I start braking from 50 km/h and over I get a shaking / feedback through the steering wheel. Its especially abnoxious the faster I am slowing down from (ex. on a highway exit ramp).
I know this is not the first case of this happening so does anyone have any causes / suggestions?

Christian

THE GURSH
02-11-2009, 12:39 AM
that would most likely be your brakes. your rotors probaly need to be replaced

MLue1
02-11-2009, 10:53 AM
So I got an issue guys. Basicall anytime I start braking from 50 km/h and over I get a shaking / feedback through the steering wheel. Its especially abnoxious the faster I am slowing down from (ex. on a highway exit ramp).
I know this is not the first case of this happening so does anyone have any causes / suggestions?Most likely one of your rotors are warped, you will need to replace them. This can be caused buy a sticky brake caliper not releasing, you can use an infered temperature reader that they sell at Canadian Tire to check to make sure both R and L brake rotors are operating at about the same temp. If one is heating up alot more than the other then you will need to get the caliper repaired or replaced.

Another suggestion, if this just started since the weather got warmer, this may signal that one of your thrust am bushings has gone south.

Dado 540
02-11-2009, 05:32 PM
I have had this problem back then. I have replaced my front rotors and soon after the wheel shaking started. I thought it was the warped rotors, had them exchanged for new ones, same problem again. Then i replaced the thrust arms and the shaking went away. Check the bushings, you may be able to see cracks in them, i did on mine.

Trouble65
02-11-2009, 06:26 PM
I have had this problem back then. I have replaced my front rotors and soon after the wheel shaking started. I thought it was the warped rotors, had them exchanged for new ones, same problem again. Then i replaced the thrust arms and the shaking went away. Check the bushings, you may be able to see cracks in them, i did on mine.

Same thing happened to me.

MLue1
02-11-2009, 06:28 PM
...I have replaced my front rotors and soon after the wheel shaking started. I thought it was the warped rotors, had them exchanged for new ones, same problem again...Dado, do you have 2 extra rotors for sale?

Dado 540
02-11-2009, 06:50 PM
No, i had to return those. They were under warranty. If i had them you would get them for free.

Speaking of rotors, i gotta change the rears.

MLue1
02-11-2009, 09:01 PM
No, i had to return those. They were under warranty. If i had them you would get them for free.

Speaking of rotors, i gotta change the rears.The rears pads and rotors aren't stressed as much as the fronts you could use any brand for the rear. Autopartsway has the rears for $58. These are for a '99 540 but you could varify that they will fit your car.
http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts2/index.cfm?fetch=detail~ID=1999~BMW~540i%20Sedan~24 1660~241660~30

cdb
02-11-2009, 09:17 PM
Thanks for the tips guys. I have a strong feeling that it is my thrust arms and not my rotors. I had a couple of my rotors changed just before winter......
Any estimates on thrust arms?

Dado 540
02-11-2009, 09:50 PM
Well you got two options. You could replace the whole thrust arm, or you could just replace the bushings. Personaly i did the whole arm because i feared the ball joint might give out as well.

Looking at the www.autopartsway.ca they do not have any thrust arms, however they do carry the bushings required. They go for $82.

Here is the link: http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts2/index.cfm?fetch=part~ID=1998~BMW~540i~241505

I ordered mine from www.rmeuropean.com. Currently they go for $145 USD a piece.

Here is the link: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Traction-Strut-without-Bushing-Right-Front-(Support-Arm)-__31121092610_LEM_2CB14693.aspx

Please do not be cheap with these parts. Do not purchase cheap no name brands for $40-$50, because you will be shopping again in 4 months.

MLue1
02-11-2009, 10:19 PM
I have these:
http://store.powerflexusa.com/shared/StoreFront/products.asp?CS=powerflex&RowID=28&Refresh=True&CategoryID=3&OverrideJava=True&FromDefault=True

I bought mine for $72 for both side, the price has gone up a bit to $79 since then.
By the way PowerFlexUSA is actually Bimmer World.

BiturboSI
07-15-2009, 05:08 PM
Man I wish I knew this prior to changing my rotors!! Thanks guys!

Back to Bimmersport I go :)

mazdaRXwhat
07-16-2009, 08:40 AM
Yup..its definetly the bushings and or thrust arms. Im having the EXACT same problem on my 2003 540i right now.

Whip_lash
07-16-2009, 10:39 AM
Same problem here, and its getting really annoying now. It also makes a rumbling sound when going over bumps at slow speeds. I checked the bushings and they're definitely cracked. Now I dont know if i should replace them or just do the whole thrust arm with a new bushing in it already. I will be tackling this myself and I know you need a bushing removal tool... but from what i hear they sometimes tend to break on you.

Whip_lash
07-16-2009, 10:51 AM
I cant decide on which ones to get..
These are OEM that Dado mentioned http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Traction-Strut-with-Bushing-Right-Front-(Support-Arm)-__31121092610_LEM_2CB14693.aspx

These are also OEM but come with HD bushings which I have heard great things about http://www.eactuning.com/e39-thrust-arms-with-hd-bushings-p-453.html

Now Im not sure if the $70 difference is worth it just for HD bushings.

Mover
07-30-2009, 12:36 AM
Yup..its definetly the bushings and or thrust arms. Im having the EXACT same problem on my 2003 540i right now.

I had the same problem. Swapped out the bushings for aftermarket new ones. The problem went away for about 2 months. Its back again.

BiturboSI
07-30-2009, 12:39 AM
I just changed the entire control arm and it works perfectly, the car feels nice and solid. If this problem returns...I will sell my e39 528i and get something else.

Mover
07-30-2009, 06:26 PM
If this problem returns...I will sell my e39 528i and get something else.


I doubt it will.

Someone predicted that it would come back if I only changed the bushings. The recommendation is to change the entire control arm.

FederalAuditor
08-08-2009, 07:12 PM
If you do end up replacing the thrust arm bushings, consider the X5 equivalent part. It's a bit beefier and fits like a charm. I'm not sure its an option for you non-V8 guys, but look into it.

For those of you who have complained that the vibrations came back months later, make sure that they're installed the right way. If you look at the hole the bold runs through from the side, it looks kind of like a keyhole. The bottom of the keyhole should be facing the ball joint end. Indy's sometimes don't know any better and to be honest, I've heard of dealerships getting this wrong as well.

Get an alignment done while you're at it.

john88
08-19-2009, 06:24 PM
How much is Bimmersport charge for replace both front ball joins and control arms?

Mesbo
08-30-2009, 10:51 AM
I have the steering shake when I brake around 60km/hr and goes away when the speed drops to under 50km/hr. So we lifted the car and found that the passenger side bushing and driver side ball joint from the thrust arms had some play. Ordered the parts. Just one question:

I've found that tightening these back to the car requires the suspension be in "normal" position. I've found a great DIY site on this and the guy had to compress the suspension 1/2 inch from the point when no one is in the car to achieve "normal" on his 528i. I will try the technique to get this normal position, but not sure I'll have the exact weight. Anyways, can I assume 1/2 inch if my readings are close? Would BMW actually put weights in the car to get this reading or just follow some standard setting?

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/thrust_arm_bushings_procedure.htm
(about half way down article)

Thanks