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View Full Version : Where to get an oil change?


BabyHerc
01-05-2009, 11:09 PM
Any recommendations?

prince1
01-05-2009, 11:10 PM
parts source
they have 5.4 litres mobile 1 full synthetic on sale for 37.95

Bliss
01-05-2009, 11:23 PM
I noticed you're in Newmarket, so im not too sure whats near there myself, but if you're willing to go for a little drive..

Bimmersport, RMP, and Bimmex are all great places that specialize in BMW.

Fel
01-06-2009, 10:28 AM
Your driveway.

Haha but really if you want someone to do it, just avoid the quickie places like jiffylube and stuff. They are monkeys.

There's a small shop that deals with BMW and Volvo in Newmarket that I used to go to.... you could give them a try. They are called AB European, and are located on George St, a block east of Yonge and Davis, right across from Elliott's Collision. Give them a try, they're good people and don't overcharge on labor.

Trekz
01-06-2009, 12:12 PM
go to canadian tire and ask for dennis to do it and i wont monkey around with youre car lol

rendered
01-06-2009, 12:30 PM
Try RMP Motors, quick and efficient, done properly, and inexpensive! Highly recommended!

Fel
01-06-2009, 01:13 PM
Try RMP Motors, quick and efficient, done properly, and inexpensive! Highly recommended!

Yo mark, update your banner man, don't want people driving to Bolton for nothing... :P

BigD
01-06-2009, 01:43 PM
According to the TV, Mr Lube is warranty approved!!!!!!!!!!!








Or you can buy a jug of oil, a filter, a 17mm socket, a drain pan and do it yourself.

BabyHerc
01-06-2009, 02:34 PM
Thanks for all the helpful responses. I actually want to do it myself, but I can't decide on an oil. This is my first car, and first oil change, so I have no preference yet. Internet searches are all over the place regarding mineral vs synthetic and differing SAE designations. What do you guys use? I also read that I need a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 18 FT-LBS of torque. I don't have one, and don't want to spend $100 plus on a tool at the moment. Can I tighten it with a regular wrench? I would like to change my oil filter as well. Should I go to th dealer for the oil and filter and just change them myself?

Mr. RMP, do you have BMW oil and filters for sale?

BigD
01-06-2009, 02:55 PM
You don't need a torque wrench, although if you look around, you'll get one for like 20 bucks. Try princess auto, or CT often has them on sale. But the oil drain plug needs to be snug, not tight. It's tough to describe if you've never broken a drain plug (they're hollow for that reason, because removing a hollow broken stub is easier than rethreading the oil pan - if you break it you'll have the threaded cylinder threads left in the oil pan, just hammer a screwdriver in and screw it out). When you get enough experience breaking bolts you'll learn what it feels like when the bolt is tight. You should only need a torque wrench for torques that are so high that it's tough to control the effort by feel (although there are mechanics who can do that).

Get some Mobil1 or Royal Purple 0w-40 (parts source can get these for you), otherwise a quality 5w-40 from the same.

BabyHerc
01-06-2009, 03:04 PM
Thanks Big D. What makes 0w40 the preferred oil? And what about oil filters? What do I need and where can I get it?

Gamite
01-06-2009, 03:13 PM
What kinda car?

Fel
01-06-2009, 03:30 PM
Oil is personal preference... there will be endless debate if we start going on about brands.

Usually a 5W-40 is preferred... a 0W-40 is fine as well, it's a measure of the viscosity. To keep it simple, the small number is how fluid it is at the cold end, and the large number at the hot end... so a 0W-30 will do better in very cold climate as opposed to a 10W-30, for example. If you're not sure, look in your owner's manual and go with what they recommend.

If you are going to use synthetic oil, keep it in mind that you should only use synthetic from that point on. It's not good to go back an forth. Usually a mineral oil is used to "break in" a car, but switching to full synthetic afterwards is a good idea, and keep it that way for the rest of the car's life. If you go back to a regular oil, you risk sludge buildup.

With respect to the oil plug, like BigD mentioned, the trick is to just tighten it enough, without really screwing it on there. A trick I use is to tighten it until it until it feels "in", and give it an additional 1/4 turn. You won't need big muscle to do this. If you are unsure or want to be precise, you can get a torque wrench for 20-25 bucks. (It's the fancy break-type ones that cost over 100).

I buy my filters from the dealer, the couple dollars I might save with another brand don't bother me. My e34 filters only cost like 15 bucks and come with new rubber o-rings and washers too, so I feel it's a good investment.

Changing your own oil is one of the easiest things to do, so don't be fearful. Here's a basic step-by-step:
- Warm up car to operating temperature. (Then turn it off, of course)
- Put oil drain pan under the oil pan.
- Unscrew the oil drain plug.
- Let it drain.
- Remove the oil filter. (if it's in a housing, consider giving the inside a wipe)
- Put in the new filter.
- Screw in the drain plug.
- Fill with oil. (What engine? Helps to know how much you are expecting to put in.)
- Start the car. Check for leaks around the plug and filter. Check the level with the dipstick.
- Go make a sandwich.

Should only take 15 minutes, but it may take 30 your first time. Don't rush it.

BigD
01-06-2009, 03:43 PM
Thanks Big D. What makes 0w40 the preferred oil? And what about oil filters? What do I need and where can I get it?

0w40 is the recommended grade by BMW, if you can only find 5w40 get that, but my guess is they'll both be special order, so get the 0w40. For the filter, you can get them from CT or any parts store, either Bosch or Fram. The only thing is that they usually don't come with the new crush rings and O rings (you should change the O-ring on the filter lid and the housing bolt if you have one, and the crush washer for the drain plug and housing bolt [again not sure if your car has one, some of the filter housings have a plastic screw on top, which I don't think have gaskets or crush rings, others have a metal top with a long bolt] - but these aren't critical). If you buy the filter from BMW it'll come with all that jazz, and it'll probably be around the same price.

BabyHerc
01-06-2009, 06:35 PM
Great answers, thanks for the help!

BabyHerc
01-08-2009, 11:28 PM
What kinda car?

2000 323i

rendered
01-09-2009, 03:44 AM
Yo mark, update your banner man, don't want people driving to Bolton for nothing... :P

now fixed.

LOL thanks! They're always welcome to come visit me instead! j/k

SkylineR34X
01-24-2009, 08:06 PM
Do it yourself (using good parts) or bring it RMP will cost very similar at the end.

RMP is reputable and they use similar oil/filter as if you would do it yourself.

If you do it yourself. It is recommended to use MANN filter kit as MANN is the OEM supplier. As for oil, the cheapest I found that meets BMW LL-01 and A3 is Castrol 0W-30 (Made in Germany). This one can be found at Wal-Mart for 9.00/L.