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ecuconnection
11-17-2008, 01:33 AM
Got my first 524TD manifold notched and ported today. Crappy pic but you can see the notches at the 4o'clock position around each inlet and the shiny porting in the inner portion of each inlet. Had a lot of fun machining it.

it has begun!!!

everlast
11-17-2008, 01:35 AM
Oh yes, it has! :) Hoping for a sunny day (of any temperature) so I can get this bitch etested (for next year's sticker LOL) then it begins. Cosmoline and grease removal is the first step, which is about 1/5 done now.

ecuconnection
11-17-2008, 12:51 PM
stupid fast!

jeffrie
11-17-2008, 01:41 PM
Intrested in selling that RRFPR jeff?

No, but if you need it I'll lend it to you till you pick yourself up a good one.

ecuconnection
11-17-2008, 03:45 PM
I think I might invest in bigger injectors and run 13psi come summer time ... If I pop the motor im not going to care too much because I wan't to find a 318is or 328is ... going to run that PSI without a spark tune also ... Im going to push it the edge and see what these motor's can take

jeffrie
11-17-2008, 06:05 PM
^^^ I think you should start @ 30 PSI and work your way up from their *shiner*

everlast
11-17-2008, 06:36 PM
Are you going to at least tune fuel?

ecuconnection
11-17-2008, 07:13 PM
nah I will just use another FMU with -2 deg plugs... should be intresting!! I don't mind being a lab rat for this because I'm actulay enjoying geting good at fixing these thing's

George77
11-17-2008, 10:49 PM
I think I might invest in bigger injectors and run 13psi come summer time ... If I pop the motor im not going to care too much because I wan't to find a 318is or 328is ... going to run that PSI without a spark tune also ... Im going to push it the edge and see what these motor's can take
Probably it will be the first and the last time when you'll reach 13 psi with that kind of a set up.Remember,7psi it's not the same as 13,it's almost double.

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 01:35 AM
double trouble!! I like it!

everlast
11-18-2008, 01:36 AM
I have to agree with George, Bear. You wouldn't be being a guinea pig for this setup, it would just break something serious, and likely wouldn't perform well either. That's not really experimenting; anyone can just turn up the boost and blow it up. Tuning your existing setup to AFR of 12.8 or 12.6 under full load would probably give you more power than you'd think, certainly more than a 13psi system that blew up. :P

I know what you're _trying_ to do, and it is kind of exciting, but that satisfaction you're seeking can be found by doing things well, not just big.

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 02:46 AM
at 8psi I dont even think the computer is retarding the timing fully if at all...In my mind that means I have room to play

everlast
11-18-2008, 03:53 AM
I give up. :D

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 04:00 AM
hehe I do appreciate the help & imput but I just wan't experiment and have a little fun ....:D I was told my setup would never work more times then I can count on other forums and I find it exciting to do the do *wiggle*

jeffrie
11-18-2008, 08:04 AM
Probably it will be the first and the last time when you'll reach 13 psi with that kind of a set up.Remember,7psi it's not the same as 13,it's almost double.
With an intercooler (like the one bear has) M44's with the larger injectors can run 15 PSI without blowing up, I'd imagine you could go even higher with a water to air exchanger like the one we saw on Lee's 5ver.
Then again M44's have a MAF and 10:1 compression instead of the AFM & 10.5:1 M42's have.
I'm always for playing with toys *rockout*.
Although I'd recomend a second car to rely on before I'd try it in case that is your DD.

chromius
11-18-2008, 10:04 AM
at 8psi I dont even think the computer is retarding the timing fully if at all...In my mind that means I have room to play

Sorry, but how could you possibly know that without hooking up a logger? and it would have to be a good resolution logger to boot. You can't "hear" timing changes. Timing changes are done many times per second, and done in huge swings.

As an example, on a recorded run with mine for an average drive, in a 5sec time frame the timing went from -3 to 0 to 15deg then back to 6 deg, then to 43.5 deg.

I'm with George and Jay. I think your nuts. But you are right, blowing things up and then fixing them is a good way to learn, and more power to ya if that's what you're after.;)

I'm also with Jeff though, you should start at 30psi and work your way back from there:D

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 10:53 AM
Sorry, but how could you possibly know that without hooking up a logger? and it would have to be a good resolution logger to boot. You can't "hear" timing changes. Timing changes are done many times per second, and done in huge swings.

As an example, on a recorded run with mine for an average drive, in a 5sec time frame the timing went from -3 to 0 to 15deg then back to 6 deg, then to 43.5 deg.

I'm with George and Jay. I think your nuts. But you are right, blowing things up and then fixing them is a good way to learn, and more power to ya if that's what you're after.;)

I'm also with Jeff though, you should start at 30psi and work your way back from there:D

30 psi = death ... i might be stupid but im not that stupid *rockout*

anybody know where i can get colder spark plugs in ottawa? like -3 deg insted of the -1 deg volvo turbos plugs im runinng now

chromius
11-18-2008, 10:59 AM
30 psi = death ... i might be stupid but im not that stupid *rockout*

anybody know where i can get colder spark plugs in ottawa? like -3 deg insted of the -1 deg volvo turbos plugs im runinng now

Canadian tire sells spark plugs. Just get a set that has the same thread size and pitch, and a few degrees cooler. The temperature range is in the part number of the plug.

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 11:19 AM
BKR6EGP what would be the heat range?

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 11:21 AM
nevermind the higher the number the colder the plug

chromius
11-18-2008, 11:28 AM
BKR6EGP what would be the heat range?

From the NGK website...
First use the attached chart to figure out the numbering system on your plug, then follow this to figure out your heat range

The heat range for a BCPR6ES-11 is the "6" (ignore the -11, it is the gap)
After you have identified the numbering system for your plug, merely raise or lower that number to change the heat range.
REMEMBER, NGK PLUGS GET COLDER THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, HOTTER THE LOWER THE NUMBER.

Say you are starting with a BKR6E-11
if you want a colder plug, you would use BKR7E-11
if you want a hotter plug, you would use BKR5E-11
(again, on non-racing plugs, the number after the "-" refers to the gap)

Once you have decided on a number, test to see if it exists by typing that number in the part #search. If it exists, you can add it to the cart.

If it does not exist, you will need to contact NGK customer service at (877)-473-6767 for further assitance

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 11:33 AM
thanks adam ... i tryed looking for some sort of chart but that just makes my day

everlast
11-18-2008, 12:26 PM
That is a nice chart. Nice interneting Adam, you're an excellent presser of buttons. :)

chromius
11-18-2008, 12:30 PM
Haha...I actually went through the same thing with my e30 when I was looking for colder plugs after the conversion, so I knew that was out there.

just keep in mind that chart only applies to NGK plugs. Bosch is different, but there's also a chart out there for them too.

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 01:51 PM
do you know the rule of thumb for how much colder plug per HP added?

chromius
11-18-2008, 02:04 PM
do you know the rule of thumb for how much colder plug per HP added?

There isn't really a relationship between plug temp and HP. Required plug temp is based on static and dynamic compression ratios, head design, valve timing, ignition timing, fuel type, combustion temperature, water jacket coverage etc.
an 800hp car can use the exact same temp plug as a 100hp car if it's designed to use it.

Your only goal with plug temps is to keep the plug tip from getting hot enough to ignite the fuel before the spark does, yet keep it hot enough so that it doesn't foul.

When in doubt, start with the colder than normal plugs, and change them to progressively hotter plugs until they stop fouling, and you get a nice light brown colored deposits on the plug. If they're white, or glazed, then step back to a lower temperature.

ecuconnection
11-18-2008, 02:23 PM
allright thanks

everlast
11-20-2008, 07:45 PM
Injectors arrived today:

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v651/58/102/511614485/n511614485_936064_5351.jpg

Or as I will be calling them, "flood machines".

ecuconnection
11-20-2008, 08:45 PM
wondeeeeeeeeefull!

everlast
11-22-2008, 01:02 AM
Threw on the winter wheels, changed the oil and did a Seafoam treatment. Anyone ever use that before? I sucked 1/3 of it from a jar directly into the intake while running. :o

Anyway, people say it smokes like a mofo, but I didn't get much at all. I even videoed it. Funny enough, during the video a firetruck came down the street. Can you imagine if it WAS smoking like mad?! ;)

Anyway, etest tomorrow morning. I suspect the car needs a valve adjustment and I didn't do it yet. :( Hopefully it passes, then I can REALLY start working on the car.

ecuconnection
11-22-2008, 01:35 AM
good luck! I can't wait to come over and watch this build go down ... I bet you 5bux you wont be able to wait for the snow to melt befor you try it out haha and then it will be like lays chip's haha once you have 1psi you will want plenty more

ecuconnection
11-22-2008, 04:46 AM
Injectors arrived today:

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v651/58/102/511614485/n511614485_936064_5351.jpg

Or as I will be calling them, "flood machines".

what brand of 36# injectors do you recomend from that site jay?

everlast
11-22-2008, 12:45 PM
I would recommend 30# injectors actually, bear, I don't see any 32# or 36# bosch..

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Ford-Bosch-30-LB-FUEL-INJECTORS_W0QQitemZ110313426338QQihZ001QQcategoryZ 33554QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

Contact them and ask for a price for 6. Also, get them shipped USPS NOT UPS. I paid no duty nor taxes on them getting them shipped to my work. They'll also ask to confirm the vehicle and install the best rings for the task for you. They seemed like good folks.

Of course, I haven't used them yet either, heh.

everlast
11-22-2008, 12:56 PM
Update on my car: I ran Seafoam last night, installed a 173 ECU with stock chip this morning, and took it for a 30 minute drive, then to Pennzoil on Merivale for an etest. To compare to my last results, last year the system went into last chance mode and the guy glitched it to make it pass by letting off the throttle and canceling the test at the same time. I was also running the 153 "bastard step child" ECU and I'm sure I've done maintenance items I no longer remember.

This year went by the book.. I CAN'T BELIEVE THESE NUMBERS. Yay Seafoam! Especially the NO.. in the last chance mode my limit went up to 900 and I did an 880.. this year: 25.

*wiggle**wiggle**wiggle**wiggle**wiggle**wiggle**w iggle*

Now the fun may commence!

ecuconnection
11-22-2008, 01:52 PM
I would recommend 30# injectors actually, bear, I don't see any 32# or 36# bosch..

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Ford-Bosch-30-LB-FUEL-INJECTORS_W0QQitemZ110313426338QQihZ001QQcategoryZ 33554QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

Contact them and ask for a price for 6. Also, get them shipped USPS NOT UPS. I paid no duty nor taxes on them getting them shipped to my work. They'll also ask to confirm the vehicle and install the best rings for the task for you. They seemed like good folks.

Of course, I haven't used them yet either, heh.

6 Injectors? do you need two more or something?? and nice work on the Etest Passy!

everlast
11-22-2008, 03:32 PM
Oh yeah, I forgot you are missing two cylinders.

:moon:

ecuconnection
11-22-2008, 03:34 PM
how much boost do you plan on?

chromius
11-22-2008, 04:25 PM
Glad to hear you passed Jay.

I'm surprised the Seafoam didn't smoke. the vids that I've seen with that stuff show it smoking like a mofo

ecuconnection
11-22-2008, 04:53 PM
Im going to try this seafoam just for effect :)

everlast
11-22-2008, 07:33 PM
LOL bear, awesome idea. Do it next time you race in a parking lot. :)

Maybe my car was already cleanish. Its only got 15K km since Rudy did his last infamous $1000 tune before I bought it.

I was planning on 8psi, but now I think I'm going to put in 12.9 head bolts (metric blues) and run 10 or 12psi. With this in mind, it changes a few details with regards to intercooler, etc. I'm going to do what a lot of guys do, and just remove one head bolt at a time and install the new bolt. If I get any problems up the road, I will pull the head, get the water channel near the middle of the head filled with weld, machined, "freshen the head" (I still don't know all the steps involved with this) and use ARP studs. Then I'd be good to 14psi or 15psi.

Problem: factory clutch is only good to about 8psi or 9psi. :( Don't really feel like doing that job myself (unless you guys know how) so that will be a shop thing. I hate shop things. If anything stops me from running more than 8 or 9psi, it will be the clutch because I don't really want to change it.

everlast
11-22-2008, 07:45 PM
Another thing: i hate that having a large intercooler means that 50% is completely covered by the bumper. So I'm thinking about a fairly radical but straightforward pair of small parallel intercoolers, one behind the grills and one by the lower valence. Plumbing will suck.

ecuconnection
11-22-2008, 08:04 PM
everyone seems to like these volvo intercoolers for that exact reason http://www.joyride-usa.com/vw/volvo1.JPG

everlast
11-22-2008, 11:27 PM
If I installed that though, about 1/3 of it would be hidden by the bumper. So I'd be allowing 1/3 of the air to pass through uncooled. I'd rather pass through 1/3 less air in total, suffer less air spring and run two coolers 1/3 the size of the above.

Oh, except for that plumbing nightmare, right. Damn. :)

ecuconnection
11-22-2008, 11:52 PM
I'm prity sure that's what george was using and he had no problems ... plumbing for two would suck pooo but two would be also prity cool

everlast
11-23-2008, 12:12 AM
It's not that it would cause problems, its just not ideal, if you know what I mean. Kind of like how it's black. It looks cool, but the paint transfers less heat out of the air. No giant deal killer, but not ideal.

The closer each thing you do to ideal is the closer overall to perfection.

I sound like a Borg.

ecuconnection
11-23-2008, 01:10 AM
It's not that it would cause problems, its just not ideal, if you know what I mean. Kind of like how it's black. It looks cool, but the paint transfers less heat out of the air. No giant deal killer, but not ideal.

The closer each thing you do to ideal is the closer overall to perfection.

I sound like a Borg.

this is not my area because I like to take shortcuts hehe

ecuconnection
11-23-2008, 01:52 AM
where did you pick up the seafoam ?

everlast
11-23-2008, 02:59 AM
Napa on merivale south of hunt club, by the timmies.

George77
11-23-2008, 11:40 AM
Black color help's for a better heat transfer.Regarding that intercooler,I wouldn't worry about the heat transfer,I would more worry about the air flow .You can check it by having two boost gauges,one before and one after and like that you'll see when it starts to choke.

everlast
11-23-2008, 11:42 AM
Black is better? Says who? How can PAINT transfer heat better than aluminum.

Black is black because it absorbs all wavelengths of visible light. That has nothing to do with how much heat gets transferred from the air to metal and then metal to air. However, the coating of paint on the metal will prevent the heat from transferring.

George77
11-23-2008, 12:17 PM
I have read this thing,it was like an experiment I didn't try it ,and I don't have any other base.Maybe it's wrong.When you look like that:heat,metal,paint it's like a extra layer that would prevent the metal to have direct contact with the colder side.Yea I shouldn't jump and write that without knowing for sure.

George77
11-23-2008, 12:40 PM
Anyway,I don't think that the difference it's noticeable.

everlast
11-23-2008, 02:25 PM
Like I said before, negligible differences all add up, so I try to prevent any I can easily.

Anodized would likely have the least effect, powdercoat 2nd (because its thin) and paint would have the most. I wouldn't go sandblasting your cooler though. :)

ecuconnection
11-23-2008, 02:52 PM
what insurance company did you got with for the turbo project?

jeffrie
11-23-2008, 02:53 PM
Problem: factory clutch is only good to about 8psi or 9psi. :( Don't really feel like doing that job myself (unless you guys know how) so that will be a shop thing. I hate shop things. If anything stops me from running more than 8 or 9psi, it will be the clutch because I don't really want to change it.

When you tackle that send me a PM, I'd be happy to give you a hand.
Done mine about 15 times in the E36 trying the M20 single mass flywheel & clutch combo, got pretty quick in the end... had it out and in again in about 1/2 houre by the time attemp # 10 came around.
+ it's even easier in a E30 as theirs lots more room to work under them.

everlast
11-23-2008, 04:14 PM
Bear, it is Zehr brokerage and Echelon insurance, but its classic car insurance. You need to be 25 and the car needs to be 20+ years old. :(

Jeffrie, I'll be taking you up on that offer for sure, thanks!!

ecuconnection
11-23-2008, 06:43 PM
Bear, it is Zehr brokerage and Echelon insurance, but its classic car insurance. You need to be 25 and the car needs to be 20+ years old. :(

Jeffrie, I'll be taking you up on that offer for sure, thanks!!

Shit! I shall keep my brakes in check allways :)

ecuconnection
11-23-2008, 11:06 PM
what all would I need to convert to hydralic ebrake?

everlast
11-24-2008, 04:07 AM
Lol bear, you come up with the craziest ideas! Been watching some FIA WRC? :)

ecuconnection
11-24-2008, 04:55 AM
I dont have a ebrake right now and I think cable ebrake is the worst thing ever invented on a RWD car :)

jeffrie
11-24-2008, 08:04 AM
I dont have a ebrake right now and I think cable ebrake is the worst thing ever invented on a RWD car :)

Tend to agree, still havn't found a way to get my cables out, both are snapped and both sleeves are seized to the floor and the drum back plate :mad:.

Wanting that fixed for some sideways action Bear?

chromius
11-24-2008, 09:50 AM
what all would I need to convert to hydralic ebrake?

Actually, I don't think this would be too hard with a modified ABS controller and precharge pump. Just send a signal to the valve of the abs controller every time you pull up on the e-brake handle, which would also instantly activate the precharge pump and lock the brakes. Hell you could even wire it to a button on your steering wheel, just like x-box:D

The only downside would be that it's either off or full on. no in between*shiner*

everlast
11-24-2008, 12:37 PM
That would be A to the W to the E to the S to the O to the M to the motha****en E.

ecuconnection
11-24-2008, 01:20 PM
Actually, I don't think this would be too hard with a modified ABS controller and precharge pump. Just send a signal to the valve of the abs controller every time you pull up on the e-brake handle, which would also instantly activate the precharge pump and lock the brakes. Hell you could even wire it to a button on your steering wheel, just like x-box:D

The only downside would be that it's either off or full on. no in between*shiner*

what if you used like a dimmer switch or something to that effect on the signal line to ajust gain...Possible? I wouldnt mind trying this but I just dont want to have full on brakes when you pull handle... there must be someway around it ?

ecuconnection
11-24-2008, 01:45 PM
this could be a fun little project for others with there ebrake cables geting wraped around the driveshaft

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ksport-Universal-Hydraulic-Handbrake-E-Brake-Drifting-5_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQi temZ260292684591QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ 5fAccessories

*rockout*

ecuconnection
11-27-2008, 04:32 PM
Im trying to understand this volt meter I have that you can clamp around wires and it will give you volt readings ... I have it set on Volts and AC and was tring to test wires in the house ... I get a reading of 0.045 volts when I put it around the power bar cord near my computer ... should it read 120volts?

chromius
11-27-2008, 04:38 PM
It won't work around a power bar cord, because there are 3 wires inside the protective outside. You would have to get one wire separated out (Not the ground) and put the meter around that. It's just easier to get a multimeter that has probes though if all you want to do is measure wall socket voltage.

And yes, it should be approx 120V

ecuconnection
11-27-2008, 04:49 PM
Ya I have probes I just wanted to fool around with the clamp haha ... neat little thing

everlast
11-27-2008, 11:54 PM
Are you sure the clamp is for volts? I thought they were for amperage?

chromius
11-27-2008, 11:58 PM
the clamp portion is just for amperage, but those meters almost always have plug ins for probes

everlast
11-28-2008, 12:38 AM
Put the clamp around the battery negative and start your car. That should show amperage.

Or around the 120V cable to your TV.

ecuconnection
11-28-2008, 12:49 AM
Are you sure the clamp is for volts? I thought they were for amperage?

No wonder haha I was trying to get volts all day

everlast
11-28-2008, 01:02 AM
I need that much time in my day.

BTW, you know what sucks? When the snowblower, with the new fuel line and full tank of gas, leaks all 3 liters of gasoline onto the floor of your garage. I guess the float was stuck and it just kept leaking out. We had to air out the whole house with every window open for 3 hours, and the garage just REEKS. Any ideas on how to clean it up? I put an entire container of cat litter on it. Now I have 7kg of flammable cat litter.

ecuconnection
11-28-2008, 01:41 AM
Here's what I would do bahahaha MUHAHAHA!

get a round bucket and scoop the kitty litter into the bucket and then poor some old oil over top of the kitty litter untill it is hidden ... Drop off at canadian tire in the used oil after hours drop off :P

chromius
11-28-2008, 09:54 AM
I put an entire container of cat litter on it. Now I have 7kg of flammable cat litter.

Lite it on fire...problem solved:D

Jamil20
11-28-2008, 11:00 AM
I've spilled a lot of gasoline working on my bike. Usually the gas smell leaves after a day.

Ps. Don't drink the water. :P

everlast
11-28-2008, 12:03 PM
I highly considered lighting it on fire. I will leave the garage door open all day tomorrow while I work out there and see if it drops off. Nice stain on the floor now, dammit.

ecuconnection
11-28-2008, 12:48 PM
those were all better ideas lol

jeffrie
11-28-2008, 03:24 PM
Leave a door open and put a fan on the spot it all leaked out and you should be good, unless it leaked into something that absorbed gas like wood, then you'll need about a week.

Philboski
11-28-2008, 05:02 PM
If I need to get rid of the smell of gas, I usually just open a window, light a match, or fan it towards my girlfriend.....oh, wait, never mind :D

ecuconnection
11-29-2008, 10:19 AM
If I need to get rid of the smell of gas, I usually just open a window, light a match, or fan it towards my girlfriend.....oh, wait, never mind :D

well done!! lol


I wan't to do a top end rebuild on my engine...I tryed looking for websites that listed parts(pistons,rings,bearings ect ect) besides OEM ... I wan't some mid range performance parts incase I decide to move this engine to a two door chassis in the future ... anybody have suggestions that would be great!... Also does anybody know what the unit that holds the engine and flips it to get at the crank is called? thanks!

George77
11-29-2008, 10:55 AM
That thing it's called: ENGINE STAND.You can find it at Princes Auto and for that engine you can get the smallest one,it's cheap.

everlast
11-29-2008, 12:34 PM
In fact I think they have a stand on sale right now.

chromius
11-29-2008, 02:20 PM
well done!! lol


I wan't to do a top end rebuild on my engine...I tryed looking for websites that listed parts(pistons,rings,bearings ect ect) besides OEM ... I wan't some mid range performance parts incase I decide to move this engine to a two door chassis in the future ... anybody have suggestions that would be great!... Also does anybody know what the unit that holds the engine and flips it to get at the crank is called? thanks!

What kind of upgrade parts are you looking for? You said you want to do a top end rebuild, but then you listed bottom end parts:P

If you're looking for pistons, then check out Maxsil pistons. www.maxsilpistons.com

You could also try metric mechanic for other stuff. They are expensive, but have some awesome shit. I even think they sell fully built m42's

George77
11-29-2008, 02:39 PM
so if you gonna blow up the engine at least to blow up some serious shit.but you'll still need a good tuning,so you could enjoy the car just with ARP head studs and a tuning.

everlast
11-29-2008, 05:47 PM
^^ listen to george!

ecuconnection
11-29-2008, 08:45 PM
What kind of upgrade parts are you looking for? You said you want to do a top end rebuild, but then you listed bottom end parts:P

If you're looking for pistons, then check out Maxsil pistons. www.maxsilpistons.com

You could also try metric mechanic for other stuff. They are expensive, but have some awesome shit. I even think they sell fully built m42's

Oh wicked site!! ...sorry bottom and top-end infact... thanks for the other imput :)

everlast
12-02-2008, 04:23 PM
So my boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, oil sandwich, turbo timer / afr / volt meter and ARP head studs are all on their way. *boogee*

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 05:33 PM
So my boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, oil sandwich, turbo timer / afr / volt meter and ARP head studs are all on their way. *boogee*

Sweet!!! how much were the stud's? Digital boost or analog?

everlast
12-02-2008, 05:36 PM
Went with analog mechanical boost. Unless you spend some serious $$, i think any electronic boost gauge will suck. Studs were not cheap, especially since they are custom for the m20. Got them from top end performance from cali for $200usd. Meh.

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 05:40 PM
Went with analog mechanical boost. Unless you spend some serious $$, i think any electronic boost gauge will suck. Studs were not cheap, especially since they are custom for the m20. Got them from top end performance from cali for $200usd. Meh.

yikes! on the stud's lol thats like taking out bonnet insurance:P

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 06:35 PM
Went with analog mechanical boost. Unless you spend some serious $$, i think any electronic boost gauge will suck. Studs were not cheap, especially since they are custom for the m20. Got them from top end performance from cali for $200usd. Meh.

This is going to be a hot setup ... the anticipation is growing ... atleast you have a garage to work in lol

chromius
12-02-2008, 07:19 PM
Went with analog mechanical boost. Unless you spend some serious $$, i think any electronic boost gauge will suck. Studs were not cheap, especially since they are custom for the m20. Got them from top end performance from cali for $200usd. Meh.

200us for head studs? Seriously?!:eek: Why not just get some high strength metric bolts from ottawa fasteners or something? Would have been like $20 at most.

everlast
12-02-2008, 07:31 PM
A lot of guys that used 12.9 metric bolts have since moved to studs.. The two main factors are the heat treatment (ARPs are heat treated @ 200,000psi then machined) and precision of the studs, and the ability to torque studs compared to bolts.

I can even swap one stud at a time and pull 12psi safely. If I o-ring the head and use a new stock HG its good to 20psi, safe to 15.

It took a lot of reading to find why studs torque better than bolts.. Anyone else know why?

chromius
12-02-2008, 07:45 PM
Guys ran metric bolts for years without problems though, so I don't see what would have changed. Sorry, I'm not trying to knock your choice, but just trying to understand.

I've never seen a head bolt break. and the only other problem I've heard of is people using stock torque to yield bolts, that can stretch under boost. But otherwise, a standard grade bolt, I would think would be more than strong enough. and as long as all the bolts are torqued evenly, I don't see why torquing would be an issue.

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 07:50 PM
200us for head studs? Seriously?!:eek: Why not just get some high strength metric bolts from ottawa fasteners or something? Would have been like $20 at most.

do you know what the grade is for the one's at OFS?

chromius
12-02-2008, 07:57 PM
do you know what the grade is for the one's at OFS?

12.9 is the strongest you're gonna find.

everlast
12-02-2008, 09:00 PM
... as long as all the bolts are torqued evenly, I don't see why torquing would be an issue.

That's the key. With bolts, when you are torqueing them down, the entire body of the threaded bolt is turning in its hole. That friction isn't clamping power, just resistance to turning. To get an accurate torque reading means the threads must be crucially clean, etc.

A stud threads in with no resistance until it bottoms out. When you torque, only the thread on the nut is resisting the turning, meaning all the rest of the resistance is an indicator of the clamping force.

Most of the guys on e30tech running over 12psi switched to ARP. The guys running the McMaster metric blues have had lift, and stretch under heat, etc. That said, the 12.9 bolts are a LOT stronger than factory head bolts.

Since the threads being clean isn't as critical (but still very important), I'll have more success doing one at time with studs than bolts. If the HG fails, I'm just going to pull the head, get it o-ringed at a shop, freshen what needs it, and clamp 'er down.

The nice thing about running 12psi on a factory HG is that if something bad happens and I detonate, i'll blow the HG, instead of something in the bottom end.

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 09:18 PM
.

The nice thing about running 12psi on a factory HG is that if something bad happens and I detonate, i'll blow the HG, instead of something in the bottom end.

I enjoy that point haha

chromius
12-02-2008, 09:38 PM
That's the key. With bolts, when you are torqueing them down, the entire body of the threaded bolt is turning in its hole. That friction isn't clamping power, just resistance to turning. To get an accurate torque reading means the threads must be crucially clean, etc.

A stud threads in with no resistance until it bottoms out. When you torque, only the thread on the nut is resisting the turning, meaning all the rest of the resistance is an indicator of the clamping force.

I still don't think it's as much of an issue as some would say. A little oil on the threads before it goes in, and it would be fine I think, the tiny variations in torque values just from thread friction I don't think would make a difference. Ah well, just my thoughts on it:)


The nice thing about running 12psi on a factory HG is that if something bad happens and I detonate, i'll blow the HG, instead of something in the bottom end.

This, I can't agree with though:P As crazy as it sounds, extreme pinging could melt a hole through a piston long before a HG failure. and Pre-detonation would crack a rod before the thousands of PSI of pressure were to escape out a couple of mm space created by an HG failure.:)

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 10:02 PM
This, I can't agree with though:P As crazy as it sounds, extreme pinging could melt a hole through a piston long before a HG failure. and Pre-detonation would crack a rod before the thousands of PSI of pressure were to escape out a couple of mm space created by an HG failure.:)

Im ****ed! lol

Hey jay did you think about using the MSD boost retarding unit for spark? its only like $200 and looks fairly simple

what spark plugs are you going to use ?

chromius
12-02-2008, 11:13 PM
Hey jay did you think about using the MSD boost retarding unit for spark? its only like $200 and looks fairly simple


He's using megasquirt...which I'm pretty sure will do all the ignition timing and adjustment.

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 11:15 PM
OH I understood he was just controling fuel... my bad! I wish I didnt have wasted spark setup or I would be using it

chromius
12-02-2008, 11:18 PM
OH I understood he was just controling fuel... my bad! I wish I didnt have wasted spark setup or I would be using it

I could be wrong, he can correct me. Maybe he decided to use the stock ECU to control spark. But my understanding was that he was gonna use the megasquirt as a full standalone system, which It can do if you want it to.

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 11:23 PM
Ya I should just bite the bullet and megasquirt all over the engine bay... I could never build that shit though

ecuconnection
12-02-2008, 11:38 PM
I might buy a Eprom burner and do my own maps

everlast
12-03-2008, 12:27 AM
I'm going to do fuel only at first, then likely upgrade to ms2 v3 and do both. I could build the spark kit for the ms1 but ms2 handles the e30 spark easily.

I think ms2 handles wasted spark setup out of the box. There is a guy on e30ten selling PNP ms2 boxes in ECU cases, maybe for m42 too. Bear, a ms2 pnp with lc-1 and your setup now would be very kick ass. That would be all u need, plus injectors.

ecuconnection
12-03-2008, 12:44 AM
I'm going to do fuel only at first, then likely upgrade to ms2 v3 and do both. I could build the spark kit for the ms1 but ms2 handles the e30 spark easily.

I think ms2 handles wasted spark setup out of the box. There is a guy on e30ten selling PNP ms2 boxes in ECU cases, maybe for m42 too. Bear, a ms2 pnp with lc-1 and your setup now would be very kick ass. That would be all u need, plus injectors.

SWEET! do you know any good software for maping?

everlast
12-03-2008, 01:00 AM
Free software that comes with ms.. megatune. Or the new TunerStudio, also free, wicked graphics. You'd have a really hard time tuning with an EEPROM burner IMO, MS2 is a much better way to go.

The only reason I'm not going to do spark right away is knowledge. I want to gain some experience with MS, fuel, and getting the car to run well. Plus fuel trim is possible to tune via log files from road driving, while spark tuning really needs dyno tuning. It would be a waste of money at the moment.

ecuconnection
12-03-2008, 02:12 AM
Sweet! thanks I just need to get my stock ecu map so I can start screwing around

everlast
12-03-2008, 04:55 PM
Usually you can get values from the web and get it running, then tune normally from there. There is a huge community that supports megasquirt.

everlast
12-03-2008, 06:26 PM
BTW, here's the dash for tunerstudio I built last month, for use with my MS setup..

ecuconnection
12-03-2008, 06:37 PM
Clean!!!

Lee in Ottawa
12-03-2008, 09:09 PM
anybody interested in "plug n play" megasquirt kits check out ebay. Goatthumper from bimmerforums and e30tech etc. . . is selling kits for different motors now. m30, m20, s38, m50, s50 etc for $550

heres a thread about it with a link to one of his kits in it

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1130737
from what guys are saying theres about $300 in parts so your paying $250 to have it made perfectly for ya

everlast
12-04-2008, 01:26 AM
Forgot, as Lee knows, you still need some sensors, about $40 for them. And a variable TPS if you don't have one (I think you do already).

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 01:48 AM
hmm wicked info boys... Might have to get myself hooked up ... I wan't to try everything first with just the bigger injectors and see what happen's for a few weeks... if the car sucks balls I will invest in some tuneage... I love going against all odds lol

everlast
12-04-2008, 01:51 AM
Don't forget about the LC-1 you'll also need. $200US.

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 02:02 AM
what's the difference between using a LC1 and say like the bosch OEM wideband sensors for like 89bux

everlast
12-04-2008, 11:26 AM
LC-1 comes with the same sensor, bosch wideband. However, a wideband sensor needs a controller to retrieve the data from it. It's like an active sensor, as opposed to a passive narrowband one. Specifically, instead of just reading voltage, the controller passes current through the sensor and measures the resistance (and its logarithmic) and sends out a linear 0V to 5V based on the measured O2. They function quite differently.

Audi ECU's have a controller built in, but you need to add one, hence the LC-1.

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 11:56 AM
*th-up*http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm

everlast
12-04-2008, 12:00 PM
Yeah, I've seen this.. but I've also seen reliability problems with it. You still need the bosch wideband sensor too, and support isn't nearly as good as the LC-1.. The assembled one doesn't really save you much money at all. $80 + $90 for the sensor.

edit: but hey, it would be good experience for you doing a DIY assembly. pretty easy to assemble I'd imagine. Get the display too! you'll still be up money and it will work, for sure, works with megasquirt too! it can also log RPM with AFR, which lc-1 can't (i think, iirc).

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 01:14 PM
LC1 doesnt come with Display so your saving alot actulay ... atleast I dont think LC-1 comes with guage

everlast
12-04-2008, 01:15 PM
Nope, it doesn't come with a gauge, so order a JAW. NOW.

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 01:29 PM
looks like it would be a cool little entry level board building DIY

everlast
12-04-2008, 02:09 PM
fo sho

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 04:20 PM
everyone should have this setup even NA +1 for sick little DIY

everlast
12-04-2008, 04:22 PM
^^^ LOL, this coming from Mr. I-won't-tune-I'll-blow-it-up-first.

So, did you order it yet? I can help you assemble it if you're unsure. It would be easy, seriously. Maybe $20 in tools if you don't already have a 15W solder iron, fine solder and wick.

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 04:37 PM
I will grab one befor summer ... fing broke with christmas around the bend

everlast
12-04-2008, 04:37 PM
I hear ya brother.

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 04:51 PM
group buy! :P

everlast
12-04-2008, 10:46 PM
Is your car on the road during winter?

ecuconnection
12-04-2008, 10:50 PM
no sir

ecuconnection
12-05-2008, 06:39 PM
Check out the placement of JAW! ... I'm so copying! wicked little unit!

http://shutter12.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/16/002/17/DF/4F/2F/pcto6qCRAHLlUo+G1+37B9IJtBjztPl30300.jpg

everlast
12-06-2008, 12:06 AM
Yeah, that looks awesome. Here is my AFR display:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/images/IM_AutoTimer.jpg

Its only 1.25" by 3" by 0.5", so it should fit right under the ashtray lid, like chromius's led AFR meter in his real car that he used to have. :D This shows AFR, voltage and has a built in turbo timer. I have two other gauges that I guess will go in something in the space right above the ashtray. I will likely add a EGT (they were out of stock at order time) later, and that area supports three gauges.

everlast
12-06-2008, 12:08 AM
BTW, I got my 220V installed in the garage tonight, just pop the breaker in the morning and its done. I wanted to wait until day since I'll cut power from the main breaker while installing the ganged breaker in the box, cuz I'm a pussy.

ecuconnection
12-06-2008, 01:30 AM
Yeah, that looks awesome. Here is my AFR display:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/images/IM_AutoTimer.jpg

Its only 1.25" by 3" by 0.5", so it should fit right under the ashtray lid, like chromius's led AFR meter in his real car that he used to have. :D This shows AFR, voltage and has a built in turbo timer. I have two other gauges that I guess will go in something in the space right above the ashtray. I will likely add a EGT (they were out of stock at order time) later, and that area supports three gauges.

Nice unit!

chromius
12-06-2008, 01:15 PM
like chromius's led AFR meter in his real car that he used to have. :D

Hey hey...what's that supposed to mean!?*sad*

ecuconnection
12-06-2008, 01:19 PM
oh snap!!!!

George77
12-06-2008, 05:05 PM
the vital gauges should be where you can see them while you driving and nowhere near the ashtray

everlast
12-06-2008, 05:21 PM
^^ unless the gauge on top of the dash, I wouldn't see them unless they have a warning indicator (change color, etc). Digital readouts, etc, are even worse because they just flicker from one number to another, which is a blur in my peripheral vision.

My gauges will only be there for the occasional check, for on the road diagnosis when something feels wrong and for back up purposes. My laptop is the real tuning device and once tuned, I won't be driving it unless I feel it would make a country trip without ever needing gauges.

That all said, I've been looking at adjusting the oil pressure switch spring, adding an adjustable overboost warning light and I'm in discussion with the viatrack guy for a knock sensor. These will all be channeled to bright LED warning lights in the cluster.

everlast
12-06-2008, 05:22 PM
Hey hey...what's that supposed to mean!?*sad*

j/k, just checking if you read my posts.

*wave*

btw, sorry i didn't back to you about tint. Goldwing didn't really want to cut me a deal for more than one car and then I decided to pass on tint on the e90 anyway.

everlast
12-06-2008, 06:44 PM
Officially started my build thread. :)

http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1236109

ecuconnection
12-09-2008, 02:26 AM
jay do you mind mesuring the diamiter of your fuel injector tip where the oring is ... thanks

everlast
12-09-2008, 02:33 PM
no, why? want me to?

ecuconnection
12-09-2008, 03:08 PM
yes please if you could ... thanks!

everlast
12-09-2008, 07:01 PM
What exactly do you want a measurement of? The outer diameter of the oring?

everlast
12-09-2008, 07:02 PM
Someone else needs to chime in here but I think they're all the same for our cars?

ecuconnection
12-09-2008, 07:07 PM
ya just the part that seats into the intake ... I'm just looking at geting diffrent oring sizes to match injector adapters because my m42 oem intake are not normal injector size slots

chromius
12-09-2008, 07:37 PM
Someone else needs to chime in here but I think they're all the same for our cars?

They all are except M42's seemingly.:confused:

ecuconnection
12-09-2008, 08:18 PM
They all are except M42's seemingly.:confused:

it's the most anoying thing I have came across to date!

everlast
12-10-2008, 12:14 AM
I am not going to get to it in the next week, sorry, I'm out of the city.

ecuconnection
12-10-2008, 12:29 AM
safe trip!

oldskool3
12-10-2008, 12:43 AM
Jay where did you say you got your e30 sprayed for ~$100. My moms car is pretty much toast and with the ****ing OC drivers striking I think the e30 will have so winter duties this year.:( I hope I dont end up with a pile of rust in the spring. Do you guys think if I rust proof i that any current rust will get a lot worse. I am really concerned about some surface rust on the rockers that I can no longer address due to the temp.

chromius
12-10-2008, 09:58 AM
When I had my e30, I Krown rustproofed every year, drove it every winter except one, and the little rust I had never got any worse. So I don't think you should worry too much Jesse. Just try and keep it washed. Also pick up a can of rust check from crappy tire and treat the surface spots with it every few weeks, works like a charm.

Jamil20
12-10-2008, 11:18 AM
My car was overheating a bit today. Noticed the aux fan wasn't running at all. Anyone think all the snow could have killed it? I checked and the plug had not come off, and temp sensor was where it should be. Didn't check the fuse.

(I've got FDM)

chromius
12-10-2008, 11:26 AM
My car was overheating a bit today. Noticed the aux fan wasn't running at all. Anyone think all the snow could have killed it? I checked and the plug had not come off, and temp sensor was where it should be. Didn't check the fuse.

(I've got FDM)

Should get a mechanical fan:P

carjoe
12-10-2008, 11:34 AM
I have a spare but no idea if it's working...

I doubt I can even see my car. It should be buried under a ton of snow by now.

Jamil20
12-10-2008, 11:40 AM
Should get a mechanical fan:P

No mechanical anymore for me. If anything I'd put another electric SPAL fan. This one will be behind the rad so snow doesn't kill it.

I'm not sure if this thing is dead yet though. It may just be frozen?

ecuconnection
12-10-2008, 12:24 PM
+1 for mechanical fan

Jamil20
12-10-2008, 01:12 PM
I went out during lunch and tried to spin the fan, and it doesn't move. I think it's frozen.

oldskool3
12-10-2008, 02:14 PM
no love for the e30. I went out this morning and it started right up but than shut off so i started it again and after a ~30 seconds it shut off again. Now it won't start it turns over fine but won't start up. *thmbsdwn*

ecuconnection
12-10-2008, 02:22 PM
unplug afm and see if the car will start then report back with idle condition... I remember adam mentioning something about hydro lock... maybe you have that condition?

chromius
12-10-2008, 02:51 PM
Definitely not hydro lock. Engine's don't turnover in that case, and con-rods come out the side of the block.

Jesse, sounds like fuel starvation. With this cold weather, you could have condensation in the fuel lines/filter/gas tank which have either frozen, or excess water has plugged up the fuel filter.

Also, could be AFM related as Barry suggested. Especially with your history of AFM issues.

ecuconnection
12-10-2008, 03:00 PM
Definitely not hydro lock. Engine's don't turnover in that case, and con-rods come out the side of the block.

Jesse, sounds like fuel starvation. With this cold weather, you could have condensation in the fuel lines/filter/gas tank which have either frozen, or excess water has plugged up the fuel filter.

Also, could be AFM related as Barry suggested. Especially with your history of AFM issues.

sorry confused Vapor lock with Hydro lock ... my bad

If it end's being AFM I have a spare one for ya...good luck!

oldskool3
12-10-2008, 03:03 PM
Jesse, sounds like fuel starvation. With this cold weather, you could have condensation in the fuel lines/filter/gas tank which have either frozen, or excess water has plugged up the fuel filter.

i figured it was fuel related. I never put in any gas line antifreeze so I was thinking condensations freezing as well. Is there anyway to fix this besides hoping a warm day comes along?

chromius
12-10-2008, 03:10 PM
i figured it was fuel related. I never put in any gas line antifreeze so I was thinking condensations freezing as well. Is there anyway to fix this besides hoping a warm day comes along?

You could try throwing in some gas line antifreeze now, but if the fuel isn't flowing, it probably won't work. The only other option is to get a heater on it if you have a garage to put it in or something.

You could also try a hairdryer on the fuel filter, and hope that's where the blockage is.

oldskool3
12-10-2008, 03:15 PM
You could try throwing in some gas line antifreeze now, but if the fuel isn't flowing, it probably won't work. The only other option is to get a heater on it if you have a garage to put it in or something.

You could also try a hairdryer on the fuel filter, and hope that's where the blockage is.

Jesus you must be bored at work. Im at school right now but ill defintely try that when i get home. Thanks a lot Adam!

chromius
12-10-2008, 03:17 PM
Jesus you must be bored at work.

Shhhh, don't tell anyone:D

The lead up to Christmas is pretty slow at work, so yeah.

jeffrie
12-10-2008, 03:26 PM
ya just the part that seats into the intake ... I'm just looking at geting diffrent oring sizes to match injector adapters because my m42 oem intake are not normal injector size slots

My upgraded injectors looked to be the same size as the ends of my old ones, the end that press into the fuel rail.


They all are except M42's seemingly.:confused:
M44's are bigger on the manifold side as well.

oldskool3
12-10-2008, 03:28 PM
Shhhh, don't tell anyone:D

The lead up to Christmas is pretty slow at work, so yeah.

Good deal for you! No one likes to work too hard at christmas time. Any idea how much your krown rust proofing used to cost?

chromius
12-10-2008, 03:38 PM
Good deal for you! No one likes to work too hard at christmas time. Any idea how much your krown rust proofing used to cost?

It was $100 for the entire car. However that was a locked in price from when I first started going back in 2000. Might be more than that now.

I did a half job last year (basically just an under spray without the holes in the panels etc) on the 540 for $60

ecuconnection
12-10-2008, 03:42 PM
My upgraded injectors looked to be the same size as the ends of my old ones, the end that press into the fuel rail.



M44's are bigger on the manifold side as well.

ya it's either you find a e30 318 manifold or you bite the bullet and pay $100+ship and you get 4 little adapters that are prob worth under 2 dollars in material...****!

Jamil20
12-10-2008, 04:12 PM
We're supposed to get a warm day next week. :) 7C

ecuconnection
12-10-2008, 08:46 PM
**** I'm broke can someone lend me a Jamilian dollars for upgrades

Jamil20
12-10-2008, 11:07 PM
Fan problems appears to be a fuse. False alarm. Why is it always a fuse when I least expect it to be a fuse? Must be one of them Murphy's laws.

A Jamilian dollars. I like the sound of that. Knowing my financial situation however, that's probably 99cents.

ecuconnection
12-10-2008, 11:29 PM
sell me your injector adpaters and go back to 8 psi jeff hehe

jeffrie
12-10-2008, 11:32 PM
ya it's either you find a e30 318 manifold or you bite the bullet and pay $100+ship and you get 4 little adapters that are prob worth under 2 dollars in material...****!
You wouldn't be able to close your hood with a E30 M42 intake manifold in an e36 engine bay.
Need to find yourself an macheinist that ows you a favor, worked for me :P.
Mine are aluminium and cost $0.00. I already asked for you he said no as he doesn't actualy work at the shop he uses.
Doubt it would cost 100 bucks, it's easy with the macheine (such as the one in the government's DND macheine shop).
All he did was scan it, measure the crap out of everything, enter #'s into the macheine, install a block of aluminium.
10 min later 4 adapters in need of minor polishing before install.

ecuconnection
12-10-2008, 11:39 PM
Shit that would have been a mint hook up!! .... I willing to pay $60 for anybody that knows someone who could do these adapters

ecuconnection
12-11-2008, 03:51 PM
New guage setup... look's ok but can't seem to think of a way to keep the pod in without useing those two screws ... if anyone could offer a idea that would be great!.. thanks!

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/PB120085.jpg

oldskool3
12-11-2008, 08:32 PM
PL premium!!

Jamil20
12-11-2008, 08:47 PM
If you can figure out how to fabricate mounts, I'd like to know. :)

carjoe
12-13-2008, 02:09 PM
Speaking of gauges, see the setup in the part out thread for the LSB M3? Damn. What a beautiful gauge setup!

ecuconnection
12-16-2008, 11:05 PM
operation rust bust has begun!! should be done all the rust cut out's tomorow along with a primer coat for the bare metal
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB160089.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB160090.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB160092.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB160093.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB170094.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB170095.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB170096.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB170097.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB170098.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB170099.jpg

ecuconnection
12-16-2008, 11:06 PM
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB170102.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Car%20work/PB170103.jpg

chromius
12-17-2008, 10:31 AM
Good stuff man. I saw you driving down Baseline yesterday. I tried waving but I was in a U-Haul truck, so you probably had no idea it was me.:D

carjoe
12-17-2008, 03:01 PM
Nice. I fear if I started something like that, there'd be no car left...

ecuconnection
12-17-2008, 08:03 PM
day 2~!

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170104.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170105.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170107.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170108.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170109.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170110.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170112.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170114.jpg

ecuconnection
12-17-2008, 08:04 PM
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170115.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB170116.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180117.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180119.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180120.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180121.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180122.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180123.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180127.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180133.jpg

ecuconnection
12-17-2008, 08:04 PM
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/Day2%20car%20work/PB180135.jpg

ecuconnection
12-17-2008, 08:09 PM
The last photo represent's a 90% finish on that fender but we have to bondo over the fiber glass and sand it down for a perfect finish ... we had to spray primer so I could get it home and it protect from rust untill I get back in for sanding and paint... The hardest part is done!! the rust was super uber BAD!! and it scares me to think of how many other car's are filling there trunk up with water when the roads are wet :P

ecuconnection
12-17-2008, 08:14 PM
Good stuff man. I saw you driving down Baseline yesterday. I tried waving but I was in a U-Haul truck, so you probably had no idea it was me.:D

SHIT!! no idea!

ecuconnection
12-22-2008, 06:00 PM
no worrys about those injectors jason... just got some today!

everlast
12-23-2008, 12:39 PM
cool, which ones did you get?

ecuconnection
12-23-2008, 01:14 PM
36# lucas injectors... apprently they are a fav buy for FI setups

ecuconnection
01-12-2009, 11:45 PM
Anyone know where I can get something like this done in ottawa? I'm so sick of removing the stupid M42/44 upper and lower sections to get thing's done on this car it would just be alot more practical to have a turbo intake manifold


http://www.home.no/corradoboy/main-filer/engine/intake_and_fuelrail.jpg

everlast
01-13-2009, 12:17 PM
/jizz

that's hawte. no ideas though. I wish I'd have bought that TIG and learned to build them myself by now!

edit: To be sure, you'd pay through the TEETH for that locally.

chromius
01-13-2009, 12:19 PM
I wish I'd have bought that TIG and learned to build them myself by now!



No time like the present:).

ecuconnection
01-13-2009, 12:23 PM
ya I figured that much ... I have two intake manifolds to play around with now so I might try and figure out some kinda of chop swap and weld master peice

everlast
01-13-2009, 12:24 PM
http://www.usedottawa.com/classified-ad/6324932

Anybody know ANYTHING about this shit? Cause I don't.

chromius
01-13-2009, 12:27 PM
http://www.usedottawa.com/classified-ad/6324932

Anybody know ANYTHING about this shit? Cause I don't.

All I know is that would be sweet...cuz you could weld me a new exhaust:D

everlast
01-13-2009, 12:37 PM
I could weld mine too. I'd buy it in a heartbeat, knowing all you guys would 'help me out' by getting me to do stuff. My main problem is a nearly full garage. I really have no room for it. 99% of the time it won't be used. :(

FYI Adam, the guys who welded my exhaust welded mild to stainless with a MIG, and it turned out great, so TIG is not necessary if you're just putting in galvanized pipe.

Jamil20
01-13-2009, 12:47 PM
If you need help storing it, you can keep it in my garage. I'll give it a good home. :P

everlast
01-13-2009, 12:55 PM
I walked straight into that one.

Duct_Taper
01-13-2009, 04:54 PM
I don't know if this will be much help... but a guy that used to work at Eastway Tank (http://www.eastwaytank.com) on Merivale by the name of Pat did some pretty sweet custom fab like that on his spare time (when I was there he was working on a turbo motorbike).

I have no idea how to get in touch with him now, but if you called there and talked to Rick (who may or may not still work there - he was the service manager when I was there) he might know.

Some of the guys that work there might be willing to do stuff like that on their spare time as well - they are pretty much all good TIG/MIG aluminum welders.

everlast
01-13-2009, 05:32 PM
Sweet info Duct, that's the kind of guys we need for our strange requests. :)

ecuconnection
01-13-2009, 05:48 PM
Thanks Duct!

Duct_Taper
01-13-2009, 06:17 PM
No worries, hope it's useful for someone :)

ecuconnection
01-13-2009, 08:57 PM
Hey JAy I bought that POR15 stuff and I'm wondering what you put it into after you used some of the can? should I just use a plastic bottle with a cap or steel container ?

everlast
01-14-2009, 09:44 AM
You can keep it in the can. Take the amount out that you need before you start, nothing more, and whatever you do, don't return the old stuff to the can. Don't ever touch the unused stuff with a brush, etc, not even for a '2nd dip' as it will cure the paint right in the can. Just stir, put some in another container and close the can up. Don't shake it either.

The 2nd time I used it, I had to put the whole thing into a new can I bought from home depot, because the can sealed shut, lol. Make sure you don't get ANY on the rim of the can.

Usually when I'm using it, I used SO little at a time I just put a small amount in a pop bottle lid, etc and used a small brush. I would stir with a stick, just drip some into a pop bottle lid and that was it!

ecuconnection
01-14-2009, 10:24 AM
shit thanks! I would have defently screwed my batch up without this knowledge

everlast
01-14-2009, 12:39 PM
Please tell me you got all the prepping chemicals too, right? Marine Clean and Metal Prep?

ecuconnection
01-14-2009, 12:59 PM
no just going to use degreaser and etching primer... not to worryed

chromius
01-14-2009, 01:01 PM
Just curious, but why would you use an etching primer? I thought the whole point of the POR15 is that you don't need primer, and can go over bare metal and/or rust, hence the name "Paint over rust"?

If you're gonna prime it, why not just paint it normally?

ecuconnection
01-14-2009, 01:12 PM
Just curious, but why would you use an etching primer? I thought the whole point of the POR15 is that you don't need primer, and can go over bare metal and/or rust, hence the name "Paint over rust"?

If you're gonna prime it, why not just paint it normally?

double the protection in the wheel wells and inside fenders?? I don't know, just thought I would use the rest of the can I have of that etching primer shit lol

everlast
01-14-2009, 01:19 PM
I would really reconsider that Bear. This stuff is really particular about prep. I think marine clean is Spray 9 or something very similar, and metal ready is phosphoric acid. I believe any bare metal needs the phosphor coating or the POR won't adhere to it. That's very important.

If the POR doesn't adhere properly, the transition between the rust and the good metal (which occurs 100's of times over every square CM) will allow the bare metal access to oxygen, and it will rust out just like you didn't do anything at all.

And forget the primer altogether.

You really need to read and follow the directions for the POR, or you'll just end up wasting your money. This stuff isn't a CURE for rust, it just slows it down, so if you don't do it right, the rust will just continue at the same rate underneath a hard shell of POR that will stop you from seeing it, until there's no metal left

Following directions, FTW. ;)

ecuconnection
01-14-2009, 01:23 PM
maybe I will skip the primer step ... but from what I understand por15 will protect for hundreds of years, lower your sperm count and vaporize the local water supply :)

Striker
01-14-2009, 01:25 PM
Bear I brought on a huge box of silicone tubing, couplers, aluminum piping etc. These were all for my project and another customers BMW we will boost and I think two extra kits.

If you need anything in a rush give me a ring.

ecuconnection
01-14-2009, 01:26 PM
I only paid $12 for a can so I'm just going to play around with it

ecuconnection
01-14-2009, 01:30 PM
Bear I brought on a huge box of silicone tubing, couplers, aluminum piping etc. These were all for my project and another customers BMW we will boost and I think two extra kits.

If you need anything in a rush give me a ring.

Hey I'm good for now but I might need some odds and ends down the rd and I will let you know .. thanks!

ecuconnection
01-22-2009, 01:38 AM
need some help with some math here lad's ... stock injectors are 19lb my new ones are 36lb... generally speaking each tooth of the gear is equal to about a 2% change in the transient mixture... what im trying to figure out is how many teeth would one need to ajust to get to the leaner mixture matching 19lb injectors at idle

my calculations bring me to 45 teeth

everlast
01-22-2009, 03:14 AM
Yep, that sounds right. How many teeth does it have?

ecuconnection
01-22-2009, 09:57 AM
Yep, that sounds right. How many teeth does it have?

hmm not sure... it would be close to a full revolution of the wheel im sure

chromius
01-22-2009, 10:12 AM
What does that do to the off-idle mixture though?

everlast
01-22-2009, 10:12 AM
I bet that you won't see a linear change, ie, the farther you turn that wheel the less it will end up doing. You'll have to experiment. Isn't that why you said you wanted to try this? To be an innovator?

ecuconnection
01-22-2009, 10:21 AM
What does that do to the off-idle mixture though?

hopefully it wont lean out lol in theory it shouldnt but I will see what happens

ecuconnection
01-22-2009, 10:26 AM
I bet that you won't see a linear change, ie, the farther you turn that wheel the less it will end up doing. You'll have to experiment. Isn't that why you said you wanted to try this? To be an innovator?

I moved it about 10 clockwise so more tension on the spring and there was noticeable power loss while in NA...Im glad I marked the OEM settings or I would have been screwed

ecuconnection
01-25-2009, 04:05 PM
Hey I can't seem to find a pattern for replaceing your head bolts with metric blue bolts...Jay do you know the correct swap pattern? if it's hard to describe could you maybe give me a drawing ... thanks!

everlast
01-26-2009, 01:22 AM
You swap them in the order that you should torque them.. You should look on other forums for specfic information though and only do it once you've found instructions from someone who already has had success, in case there is anything unique or special you should do.

ecuconnection
01-26-2009, 01:28 AM
You swap them in the order that you should torque them.. You should look on other forums for specfic information though and only do it once you've found instructions from someone who already has had success, in case there is anything unique or special you should do.

Ok thanks!

chromius
01-26-2009, 01:35 AM
It's always criss cross pattern starting from the center and working your way out.

ecuconnection
01-26-2009, 12:25 PM
thanks! now I will have to find a average torque specs from other m42 builds

everlast
02-12-2009, 02:27 AM
Bear, I've found some articles that might help you out a LOT.

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110897/article.html

This article entertains how to use a pot across the 5v to signal line on a MAP sensor to trick the ECU into delivering different fuel levels. It might be basic to some, but I had never thought of using a pot this way.

Perhaps one could be used on your AFM signal (which just varies resistance to the ECU) so that at idle it would send considerable less pulse width to the injectors. It would have to be thought out more than I can do now, but there are also other articles on the site (the above is article 6) that might help.

everlast
02-12-2009, 02:29 AM
DIY catch can:

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110826/article.html

ecuconnection
02-12-2009, 02:34 AM
cool stuff! I like the air compressor filter idea alot better though for catch can ... allready has ports for NTP barbed fitings

everlast
02-12-2009, 02:38 AM
Where does the oil go?

ecuconnection
02-12-2009, 09:28 AM
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=978118

everlast
02-12-2009, 03:10 PM
Bear, I'm surprised you're not all over the first link I posted though. It could mean a semi-tunable Motronic setup.

ecuconnection
02-12-2009, 03:34 PM
Bear, I'm surprised you're not all over the first link I posted though. It could mean a semi-tunable Motronic setup.

Just got around to reading that ... sound's realy intresting... I was reading something simular a while back called AFM to MAP(and no not MAF) conversion and it looked very complicated, but this better explains everything...I now know that 44lb injectors will start and idle a m42 engine(extremelylow's car tested) and after a drive the computer adapts to allow for a rich but driveable car... I plan on puting my 36lbs in and playing with the AFM spring and bring the arm down a bit so the computer never allows 80% duty cycle maybe like 60%... I hooked up my fuel/air narrow band today and it's jumps to rich when I go to WOT befor I can blink so I'm confratable using it as a crude reference between rich/lean... basicly I plan to play with the AFM untill I can get the o2 sensor back in asolation

ecuconnection
02-12-2009, 07:23 PM
I could wire one of these pot's and run it to the cab for fine ajustments of the AFM signal couldnt I? do you think they sell these at active? I guess the only concern with this mod is that I still dont know if the AFM signal has timing influence

ecuconnection
02-21-2009, 05:08 PM
Progress update!

Final sanding, Masking and a few thing's here and there and she should be painted by Sat

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2901.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2902.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2908.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2909.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2910.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2911.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2914.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2917.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2919.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/Bear607/100_2928.jpg

everlast
02-21-2009, 08:03 PM
Wicked!

ecuconnection
02-21-2009, 08:58 PM
Thanks bro!

everlast
02-22-2009, 02:12 PM
Calling for help: I need some arms and limbs on wednesday evening to remove my hood and bumper. Any takers? Will supply beverage of choice.

Duct_Taper
02-22-2009, 02:52 PM
Where in Ottawa are you? I think I am free on Wednesday.

PM or email mckay.paul.d AT gmail.com if you don't want to post it here.

everlast
02-22-2009, 03:14 PM
Merivale Baseline area. PM me if that's cool for my address.

chromius
02-22-2009, 04:51 PM
count me in dude. Besides I might need some help moving too :) haha

oldskool3
02-22-2009, 06:01 PM
Id be down to lend a hand if you need another set.

Adam you're moving?

ecuconnection
02-22-2009, 07:44 PM
I would but I don't have a car till next weeknd!

chromius
02-22-2009, 08:14 PM
Adam you're moving?
Yeah, i bought a house out in stonebridge. Right near barrhaven. :)

ecuconnection
02-22-2009, 10:19 PM
Yeah, i bought a house out in stonebridge. Right near barrhaven. :)

party!! lol